1982 R65. Hall sensor bean can

[georgesgiralt]

Hi !
Sometimes my advance unit stuck. So today I decided to open it.
I first put felt pen marks everywhere to be able to start back the motor.
Then, once open I've found the TruArc clip on top of the magnetic gate missing. One of the debris was making the advance sticky. Fine, Monday I'll go shopping for a new one... Then I've found that one of the red circular tabs serving as stops in the platter holes is partly destroyed....But I think it will hold for another 30 years....
I decided to clean everything, having found the culprit and I used gasoline to clean. To no avail. the burnt oil is so sticky I decided to use carburetor cleaner.
Very bad move. The carb cleaner has dissolved the felt marks I had placed everywhere. And the dirt is still here..... I was proud to have found a felt pen resisting the "normal" solvent I use to clean parts.....  
So could you please help me and told me how I could find the spark point ? Is it when the metal vane opening  begin to reach the hall sensor, or what ? How could I find the correct setting ?
Help me please .... I'm so stupid.  

[montmil]

These bean cans are not real particular as to their initial install position... as far as getting the engine fired up.

Use your best guess memory and stab that puppy back in. It'll start but now you need to get busy with the timing light.

May I recommend using a digital camera to record 'what goes where' prior to disassembly of components? It's an electronic brain for me.

[tvrla]

Install the bean can so it's just able to move. Position it all the way clockwise.

Set the flywheel to the S mark (or whatever is used for the idle timing setting) not the Z or OT.

Turn on the ignition and slowly turn the bean can counter clockwise till you hear a SNAP - the spark jumping at the plug.

Tighten it down and it should start and run fine. It would be good to set it properly with a timing light when you get a chance.

[nhmaf]

+1 with wirespokes' suggestion - if you don't have the reference mark anymore, that should get you pretty close, at least close enough where you can run the bike and do the timing adjustment with a light, etc as normal.

[georgesgiralt]

Thank you for your help.
I've another question, though, does anybody knows the size and material used for the gasket at the camshaft end ?
This gasket is concealed under a sealed steel plate, so before removing the plate, I'd prefer knowing if I can get a new one....
Thanks a lot for your help !

[tvrla]

There's no gasket under the bean can. Just an o-ring.

[georgesgiralt]

Oh yes Wirespokes, there is one !
It is concealed (in the inside of the can) and seal the shaft coming from the camshaft for oil. As the busching is reduced (from the inside) it is difficult to see unless the gaiter is stuck to the shaft and comes with it when dismantling...
I was able to fit it back (a tedious and nerve breaking job) but I managed to put it back. So I would like to have a new one and change it.

[montmil]

Are you speaking of the fiber washers within the metal/fiber stack and inside the can -used to shim the bean can shaft to proper spec?

Post a photo of this mysterious washer. Me n' 'Spokes would be much appreciative. Failing that, a fiche page and part number, please.

[georgesgiralt]

Hello !
I tried to make a picture but my camphone (the only digital camera I own) can't make so close snapshots.
If you remove the shaft, and look inside the can from there, you'll see a "rubber" band at the inner part of the shaft housing.
This is the sealing part of the gasket. It is difficult to see as it protrude very little in the shaft's space.
Then if you look inside the can itself you'll see that there is a steel round sealing on the bottom of the aluminum can. this mask the seal.
I do not know if this is fitted on every can (mine has no plastic protection around the sensor's wire, the hole in the box is not closed by a rubber oval gasket but is sealed with an aluminum flared part)
The part number stamped on it is 0 232 102 001 and UHF1 is also stamped on it.
So maybe they found this gasket was not needed at some point in production...
But I would be glad to know if your's have it !  

[montmil]

To date, I have stripped and rebuilt three of the electronic ITUs and have not seen the bits you describe.

Your description of the bean can on your bike sounds somewhat different than the three I've rehabbed.

There are a couple excellent photo essays out on the web showing the full ITU overhaul and Hall sensor replacement. None have the parts you describe.

Stranger things have happened, but only in my dreams. - Ronnie Milsap

[Olliepup]

Not a good idea to use gasoline as a cleaner, one little spark and kapowie! Better to use mineral spirits (paint thinner) or kerosene.
Wavy

[tvrla]

Yeah, I've rebuilt at least four or five of these things - maybe ten - I've lost track. But I've never seen a gasket inside the bean can. I sort of recall an o-ring somewhere, and one under the bean can where it mounts. But no gaskets.