prep for storage

[badgertom]

I will be putting my bike in storage for about 4-5 months. During my last oil change on other bikes I have added a little Seafom or Marvel Mystery Oil to my oil (let the engine run for a while) then drain the oil with the hope of removing sludge etc. I am not sure this works but has anyone tried this? Do you use the same for cleaning carbs? A friend tells me that all these addatives realy do nothing but add more cost.  

[k_enn]

I put seafoam in the gas tank, run a little through the carbs, and top off the tank before storage.  Seafoam is a gasoline stabilizer and moisture remover (i.e., good for storage).  Having a full tank and removing moisture is important, otherwise you may get condensation in the tank which will, with time, rot out the bottom of the tank.  Had that happen.  

I do not use seafoam in the oil -- upon draining it will supposedly remove any buildups you may have.  But by removing the buildups, there is a real chance on old bikes like ours that you will develop oil leaks around the seals if the buildup is fully removed.

Also, be sure to put the bike in neutral and to work your clutch every week or so when you first put the bike up.  My experience is that if you do not do this, there is a much greater likelihood that you will have stuck clutch.  If this happens, see the "how to" on a stuck clutch.  By working the clutch, you prevent or at least minimize any moisture/rust bonding.  

k_enn

[Luca]

From what I gather, seafoam will remove very mild varnish and crud from carbs.  However, as with adding it to oil, you might want to be concerned about large chunks of crud that get loosened up and relocated.  When I was on the Kawasaki Vulcan 750 forum, a lot of guys would add it to the gasoline every other tank with good, but anectdotal, results.  Our carbs are so much easier to remove than a V-twin's, so like k_enn does, I'd just use the Seafoam to control moisture.  The best way to clean a carb is to just pull it and clean it.

If you do add Seafoam or MMO to your oil, make sure you change the filter after draining.  You want all that stuff out of there, as it thins the oil and the filter might get crudded up too.

My  [smiley=2cents.gif] is to just maintain regular oil changes and go to synthetic if you want to keep an engine squeeky clean inside.  Synthetic oil has a way of finding leaks and, as I understand it, more detergents to keep sludge from building up.  Be warned though, cleaning carbon deposits from around the rings on an old engine with some mileage might result in burning oil.  I have a '77 Mercedes 240 Diesel, and after running it on diesel purge (a serious injector cleaner that's run out of an auxiliary fuel tank for 5-15 mins.), it started burning more oil.

Furthermore, I would not ever use any type of solvent or synthetic oil in a high mileage motor with hydraulic valves (not to worry on our airheads), as you can end up with crud blocking the screens that keep junk out of the hydraulic valve chambers, and then your valves dont open enough

Lastly, it's usually good to reduce the tire pressure to prevent flat spots in the tires that develop over long term storage.  You also might be able to put the bike on the center stand and block the motor front and rear, so that neither tire is touching the ground.

[montmil]

Do all that these guys suggest, then roll that scooter into the house where it'll spend the winter with you nice and cozy and dry.

Park the R65 in your guest bedroom so when those troublesome, free-loading relatives call for their freebie bed & breakfast, you can honestly tell them the room is occupied.

[smiley=2cents.gif]

[k_enn]

Oh, and don't forget to put the battery on a battery tender.  The battery will discharge, and if it sits in a discharged state for a long period of time (e.g., a few months), it will not hold a charge well.  Back before I used a battery tender during the off season, I would get at most 2 years from a battery.  The one I have now has been put on a tender every winter, and it is four years old and still strong.  

Also, if it is stored in an area where mice can get at it (e.g., garage, shed), put some steel wool in the air intake horns.  Mice like to get into the air cleaner box and make nests in there or out of your air filter.  The steel wool keeps them out, and they won't chew through it.

k_enn

[nhmaf]

Drain the float bowls in the Bings!  And make sure the petcock is "OFF".

Generally, with fuel tanks - you either want them to be filled to the top with fuel and fuel stabilizer - seafoam or Stabil both work pretty well - and kept in a cold, unheated place.... or you want the tank to be completely drained/empty with the fuel cap off and in a relatively warm (>50F) place - you could spary the inside with a bit of fogging spray too if you want.   Either method works pretty well, but I've found that if you leave fuel sitting in a warm/hot place, even with fuel stabilizer it will tend to varnish things up much faster than when cold.

[Barry]

then roll that scooter into the house where it'll spend the winter with you nice and cozy and dry.

House are inconsiderately designed with this in mind, what with steps and all and then for most of us there is a serious negotiating issue of obtaining permission. Still it's undoubtedly the right thing to do. I did once get as far as the conservatory after applying  for and receiving special dispensation to bring it in overnight when the garage floor paint was  drying.

[montmil]

I was waiting for that photo, Barry. One of my all time favorites. Thanks [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

In solved the winter storage problem, moved to a warm weather region, ride all year long !!!

[patanga]

Depending on the length of storage time make sure to flush the brake fluid prior to storage. The number of times I've seen bikes parked for a couple of years only to see contaminated fluid closely followed by leaking master cylinder/hydraulics has been too many.

[Olliepup]

You guys are hilarious! Some things I've heard over the years:

Never heard anything good about trying to remove sludge from an old engine, only bad things.
Synthetic oil is great for racing engines, use it if you like leaks.
There is so little weight on tires (on center stand) does blocking do anything?
Put steel wool in the exhaust pipes, too. Use plenty of mouse traps.
Storing with a full tank is better than an empty one due to drying of seals.
Storing a cycle inside a home is not a good idea. Don't become an example of the Darwin theory.
Use a stabilizer and fill the tank. Some say Seafoam is best.
I use marine fuel for storage (no ethanol).
Stuck clutch is due to high humidity in storage. Pull in clutch and blip starter motor to break free.

Good Luck to all! Dave

[badgertom]

What about changing transmission oil, final drive oil, etc. Clymer Maint. Schedule states every 12 months. I change the trans. oil, final drive oil, fork oil in June. ( I only put on 2800 miles this year). I used Amsoil synthetich gear lube oil 80W-90. Should I change again prior to winter storage? Seems like a bit much and ohhh so expensive.

[Barry]

If they have been done recently I wouldn't automatically change transmission oils  on account of there being no combustion by products contaminating the oil. Most old rear drive cars have had the diff oil in almost forever and don't seem to come to any harm. On the other hand if you suspect any water getting into the gearbox via the speedo cable rubber boot then that might not apply. I never had this water contamination problem though.  No reason you couldn't drain the oil into a clean container and if it looks OK put it back in again. I've done that before.