Drive Shaft Bolts

[JPSpen]

82 R-65

OK.. What's the approved method to remove the driveshaft bolts at the transmission...

I'm pulling the swingarm to replace the bearings and I'm just turning the engine....

I really don't want to wedge something in there unless I have to...

I guess I'll put the back tire back on and get some weight on it...

John

[Bob_Roller]

Usually, tighten up the adjuster on the rear brake, push down on the rear brake pedal and then loosen the bolts .

I'm not fond of using this method, but I tried it the last time I had to remove a transmission for a spline lube and when I got to the step of removing the bolts, found out I got ahead of myself .

I used a long screwdriver inserted into the 'yoke' of the u-joint got the bolts loosened  up .

Can't remember if the screwdriver lodged on the frame, of if I held it, but it worked quite well .

[nhmaf]

+1 best to remove - or at least loosen- those driveshaft bolts BEFORE removing the swingarm pins&locknuts.   You can put the transmission in gear if you like which will add some resistance.  And I also tighten up the rear brake adjuster and push firmly down with my foot on the rear brake pedal while giving a a quick upward yank on the wrench to loosen.   Then rotate the shaft around 90 degrees and do the next one.. works for me anyways.

[JPSpen]

Ok, Got the swingarm off and guess what.. There was a nut behind the adjuster in the grease inside the swingarm preventing the adjuster from being tightned far enough to load the bearings...

A freaking 10mm nut in the grease !

A hearty F.U. To BMW of OKC who worked on this bike last and left it that way....Morons.  MORONS !!!!!
Next Question...  

Should the spacing on either side of the swingarm be the same ? Or is one side more than the other.. Looks like I have close to 1/4" on each side...

I'm going to center it up unless someone says different...

Thanks for the replys in getting the shaft off..

John

[JPSpen]

This is EXACTLY the reason I don't take my bikes to a "professional" to be repaired...

John

[nhmaf]

It is actually more important that the driveshaft be centered in the swingarm, to avoid it -or U-joint assembly- from striking the inner surface as things move through their full range of motion.   But, having said that, it will generally be pretty well centered if you get both sides of the swingarm to have nearly the same amount of gap.   Being off by a millimeter probably wont matter that much as far as the swingarm/driveshaft centering goes.   So, I would use some calipers - or whatever you have that is most accurate for measuring gaps that size, and try to get them as close as you can.

I used to take my Chevrolet to the auto-dealer for servicing - they had a tendency to leave all sorts of extra parts and tools under the hood.   I think I picked up 5 new wrenches that way.

[marcmax]

It all depends on the "professional" doing the work. I use a guy who is several hours away. He was factory trained in Germany and ran the service dept at a large BMW dealer until he got tired of being told to shortcut the service procedures in order to maximize profits. He opened an independent BMW shop and in my opinion they don't come any more professional. It is the only shop I have ever been in that does not have a sign "Customers Not Allowed In Work Area". Not only does he not keep you out he actually invites you to watch and explains what he is doing, why he is doing it and what he thinks you are capable of doing on your own. I have him do maintenance items on my bike if I am in the area that I know I can do myself because 1. I enjoy watching a master at work, 2. I can ask him a million questions and get an honest answer and 3. It helps keep him in business. It would be a big loss if he was not there.