Spare Bean Can

[Red_Hen]

Hi Gang,

My R65LS only has 21k on the clock - but it's also 30 years old.

Does it make sense to buy a spare bean can, overhaul it and install it when I'm done with it?  

Or - pull it out and overhaul in the winter - if YES, where I'd probably replace the Hall Sensor for good measure - where is best supply house to buy a good quality unit (noticed on Ebay some are made in China - not necessarily a bad thing but just saying . . .).

Or, just ride the bike and wait until it conks out which might be a long time from now - on the Facebook MOA page, I read about a guys Bean Can going out at 90k.

My mind is busy tonight! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]

[Bob_Roller]

That's a good question, I've heard of electronic 'bean cans' lasting 150,000 miles and others 25,000 miles .

I've got 87,000 miles on mine and it's been subjected to the incessant desert heat for the last 19 years .

It's kinda a crapshoot, is my best guess !!!!  

Newark Electronics has them, as long as they are in stock, for about $18-20, haven't checked them lately .

Also, there's no guaranty that the new sensor you install, will last long, or fail quickly just the quirkiness of electronics .

[nhmaf]

The Hall sensor unit itself is a Honeywell 2AV54 unit and you USED to be to buy them from Newark Electronics in the US.... but now they don't show them as available anymore, and checking distributor inventory from the Honeywell webpage shows a scattering of parts, mostly in Asian warehouses.  Hmmmm.   This could be the next bit of airhead support parts that goes "unobtanium" in the near future.. not happy about that.

[Barry]

If cleaned and lubricated now and again I would think the bean can could last as long as you need it to. A spare sensor might be a good idea if you can still find one. Someone even thought up a way of installing a spare sensor inside the can.

http://bmwscotter.org/topics/common_modifications/dual_hall_effect_sensor_update.htm

[montmil]

Ken, I have a brand new extra Honeywell 2AV54 sensor that you are welcome to.

PM me and we'll "coffee talk".

[tvrla]

I always carry a spare bean can on trips. It's one of those things that can go at any time and leave you dead in the water. World travellers tended to revert to older technology by installing the points bean can, which used VW bug points found anywhere on the planet, but because they're enclosed and protected from contaminants, tended to last a very long time.

The hall sensors have failed, from what I've seen, due to the plastic they're imbedded in deteriorating and coming loose from the mounting.

[montmil]

They can also fail I you pinch the leads between the front cover and timing chest webs. It may not sever the wires but it will eventually short them and shut down the ignition while on a Sunday ride in far out North Texas.
 [smiley=embarassed.gif]

[tvrla]

They can also fail I you pinch the leads between the front cover and timing chest webs. It may not sever the wires but it will eventually short them and shut down the ignition while on a Sunday ride in far out North Texas.
 [smiley=embarassed.gif]
 

...a phenomenon not unique to electronic bean cans. As a matter of fact, it's probably more common to the points systems.

[Bengt_Phorqs]

The Hall Effect Sensor in older oilheads and K bikes is also prone to failure, primarily from exposure to moisture.  This is due to the soy bean insulation used on the wiring.  Some day I will tell the tale of "Broke Bike Mountain", a near disaster that does have a happy ending.

[Red_Hen]

Let's hear it!

[larstorders]

I always carry a spare  bean can on long trips.
It is possible to fit a second 'backup' hall sensor inside your bean can. In the event of a failure simply switching the connections allows you to carry on. Somewhere I have a link to a very good step by step guide how to do this. I'll post it here when I find it again.

[larstorders]

Sorry. Barry already posted the link.
If you just want to change or service the can a google search will also find several step by step guides with pics.