R65 LS headlamp replacement

[rev_mook]

I need to replace the lamp on my LS.  I've wrestled the reflector assembly out of the fairing (and stripped the flathead screw in the process) but now I have no idea how to re-assemble the lamp.  The set screw is at such an angle which prohibits using a screwdriver properly.

I'm guessing the fairing needs to come off some how, but that requires removing the turn signals.  Is there an easier way to re-assemble the lamp that I'm overlooking?  It just doesn't make sense to me.
 
:-/

~Mook

[Bob_Roller]

The straight slot screw, is the only thing that holds the head lamp assembly in .

You need to relieve tension on the nut assembly inside to get the assembly apart .

I don't think prying on the head light shell or bucket would be a good idea, it's very thin material .

[rev_mook]

Right, I've gotten that far but I can't seem to get it back together.  Does the black plastic piece that goes over the gauges come off easily?  I think that needs to come off to get the reflector back in correctly.

~M

[nhmaf]

This doesn't sound good - I hope that it is the description that makes it seem bad..

You DO have the black cowling/top piece that goes up and over the instruments off, right?   I don't recall having to take the whole fairing off simply to change the H4 bulb in the headlight.  Or, did you have to replace the entire headlight bucket?   IF the entire bucket, yes, you will most likely have to take the whole fairing off to be able to get at the attachment points around the headlight bracket un-encumbered.

Can you post a pic of where you are at with this disassembly?  That might help us guide you..

[tvrla]

I've always removed the black plastic Woody Woodpecker shield doing anything in there - gauges, headlight, whatever.

You'll need to remove the ignition switch retaining ring - that piece around where the key goes with the two holes 180 degrees from each other. I made a tool with a piece of hardwood and some nails to remove/replace that ring.

Once that's off, it's a little fiddly, but you have to slide it back and up. There are tabs in there so, don't try to muscle it out, it'll come when everything is lined up correctly. The Chinese learned from the Germans all they know about puzzles!

[bruce_launceston]

Another thing that helps with the retaining screw is to rotate the whole headlight shell down as far as you can, this allows better access to the screw. My headlight rotates without loosening the nuts because there are rubber friction washers in there. This is easer to do if you remove the black shield/instrument surround. It's not hard once you know how. As said above remove the retaining nut around the key (I use needle nosed or circlip pliers) and carefully slide it up and back over the instruments.
There may not be any tabs left, mine broke off the first time I removed it. They are not absolutely necessary.

Even having done it many times it is still a prick of a job to get the headlight in and locked in place.

[rev_mook]

This doesn't sound good - I hope that it is the description that makes it seem bad..

haha, no, it's not bad, and nothing is messed up except for the slotted screw which holds the reflector into the shell.  (In my defense, it was already 1/2 stripped).  Reading back on my post I realized I didn't articulate well.

I'll take the black fairing bit off next time I get a chance.  I'm sure that will help quite a bit.  Thanks for the info!

[montmil]

...nothing is messed up except for the slotted screw which holds the reflector into the shell.  (In my defense, it was already 1/2 stripped).

Been there. I made a new screw using a metric cross-point with a c/sunk head. Ground the threaded end to a bullet shape to match the OEM screw; makes for an easier install. Skip the easily boogered brass screws. IIRC, I used a stainless.