ignition problem

[cobra407]

About every 30 minutes or so I loose power. The bike just dies. If I move the the ignition key even just slightly it comes back to life. I tried to spray contact cleaner in the ignition hole (where the key goes) but it didnt seem to improve the situation. I was thinking about checking the wiring around the ignition switch? Is there a way to access the actual contacts within the switch itself? thanks much- Peter

[Barry]

Is there a way to access the actual contacts within the switch itself?  

The ignition switch looks to be crimped together at the base so it may be possible. I've never been inside one though.  1st thing I'd do is remove the switch and test it off the bike to make sure it really is the switch that's faulty.

[Bob_Roller]

If you spray contact cleaner into the keyhole in the switch, you will remove any remaining lubricant that was in the switch .

I had problems with my original switch sprayed cleaner in there and the switch got tight was tough to get it to move .

I put a light oil in there and it freed up again .

The switch failed  month or so later, one of the contacts broke off .

When I removed the switch and shook it, you could hear the loose parts rattle around .

Like Barry mentioned, you can remove the switch from the bike, the wires have push on terminal ends, so you can make up a jumper of sorts to eliminate the switch as the problem .

Make sure the kill switch works when you get done with the jumper, it will be the only way to stop the engine with the switch bypassed .

What year bike do you have ?

If you can put that in your profile, so it shows up with your posts, it can make it easier for someone to give answers to your problem, there are a few differences in the first and second generation bikes .

[wa1udg]

"DeOxit" by Caig Labs (goggle it) is the contact cleaner/lube HP, Tekronics, and Collins Radio, suggest.  It will clean and lube a  "wafer" switch, that is what it is designed for.  Worth a try.   I use it on anything with moving contacts, even contacts which only move once,  such as bulb sockets. .  It won't harm plastic.   For  sealed switches in high quality Japanese electronics  one sometines has to drill a tiny hole in the switch body with a "pin vise" and squirt some in with a syringe.  A tiny dab of super glue will seal the hole thereafter.  You might have to use this procedure for the BW switch.  

[Graeme]

"DeOxit" by Caig Labs (goggle it) is the contact cleaner/lube HP, Tekronics, and Collins Radio, suggest.  It will clean and lube a  "wafer" switch, that is what it is designed for.  Worth a try.   I use it on anything with moving contacts, even contacts which only move once,  such as bulb sockets. .  It won't harm plastic.   For  sealed switches in high quality Japanese electronics  one sometines has to drill a tiny hole in the switch body with a "pin vise" and squirt some in with a syringe.  A tiny dab of super glue will seal the hole thereafter.  You might have to use this procedure for the BW switch.  

Googling discovered this:-

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/183139-deoxit.html

  Looks the goods...

There appears to be several types as well.

[raymr]

You probably already know this, but keep your R65 keys on a separate key ring from your other keys so you don't have a bunch of excess weight bouncing on the switch. I started doing that with my car as well.

[tvrla]

You probably already know this, but keep your R65 keys on a separate key ring from your other keys so you don't have a bunch of excess weight bouncing on the switch. I started doing that with my car as well.

Excellent advice! The extra strain on the switch wears it badly. And diagnosing intermittent electrical problems originating from a worn ignition switch can be frustrating. It's a red flag anytime I see wear around the ignition switch from extra keys.