neutral switch replacement

[steven m]

Time to replace the neutral switch on my trusty 83 R65, which has started to leak.  After 29 years, not a big surprise.  Very tight in there.  Seems the only way to do it with the trans in the bike is to remove the aluminum tube that bridges the block as part of the rear motor mount.  Plan to support the engine, then tap out the mounting rod with another and pull them both out so the engine is supported on either side and then knock out the center tube, replace the neutral switch, and then put it all back together.  Before I do this, will there be enough vertical clearance to the block for removal or does the trans need to come out?  The threads on the switch are pretty long.

If there is a way to do it without removing the center mount tube, I'm all ears...

Thanks
Steve

[Bob_Roller]

You don't have too many options available to you in replacing the switch .

The method you described is about the least 'painful' method .

After you get the spacer out, bevel the edges to make reinstallation a bit easier, freezing the spacer sometimes helps with reinstallation, I've tried dry ice, seems to help, if you can get some cheaply, or if it is even readily available .

Just a thought, when was the last time the transmission input splines were lubed ?

If you're due a spline lube, hold off with the switch change, until you remove the transmission .

[montmil]

Yes, there is enough space, limited as it is, to remove and refit the neutral switch.

Are you going back with a BMW OEM switch? Twenty nine years you say? Have you owned the bike all this time? That's pretty cool.

A few months ago, the Airhead List was sorta busy with comments about "newly installed" BMW OEM neutral switches leaking after a couple months. That's not a fun job to begin with so having to buy another switch and repeating the process got some folks shorts in a wad.

I installed an Italian-made BMW repop switch -no plastic- from Motobins and have been very pleased. No leaks and less cost. Quoting Charlie Sheen, "Winner!"

[jgp1854]

My 82 LS began leaking likewise, only 30 years..........I ordered an OEM, but after reading the threads here on the OEM vs. the version from Motobins, I ordered the version from Motobins.  One good thing the Motobins was half the price of the OEM, however, Motobins, took nearly a month to get it to me.  WARNING, if you order one from Motobins, don't let them mail it to you using their "small package postal".  I could have swam the the pond and back in the time it took them to get it to me.

NOTE:  your plan is good, take a moment and read the highlights on SNOWBUM's article on replacing the switch.  But allow me to offer a twist on getting the spacer out.

Using two smaller version ratchet straps, adjust one on each end of the spacer, attached the other end of the ratchet strap to the rear whell axle and start the ratchet tightening equally, BINGO out it comes.  No prying, damaging anything.  Full access to the switch,  don't over tighten..  Do bevel the ends a little, maybe a 16th or 32nd, but the spacer in the freezer overnight.  Make sure you have a punch to help line the spacer up.

Jim

[steven m]

Just read Snowbum's article on replacing the switch.  Of course I already picked up the expensive BMW part, so either I will epoxy it or buy the motobins non-leaker.  BUT, now I am thinking, how can I be sure it is the neutral switch that is leaking?  Yes the neutral switch has grimey oil on it, and there is a little grime, not puddles, on the top of the case back there, but could this also be a main seal?  I'm pretty sure it is the neutral switch but would like to be sure.  Certainly don't want to do this procedure twice...

Monty, I have only had the bike a couple of years.  It sat in a nice clean garage for a long time before I rescued it and have been going through it bit by bit.  Tires, brakes, new seat cover, 90S bars, headlamp relay, and of course, my used direct-from-Germany-for-$17 Wudo fairing.  The guy I purchased it from is in the Air Force!  Low miles.  Doesn't burn oil or smoke, at all.  Of course it does make that pocka-ta-pocka-ta sound from the air air injection, and with the valves set properly, at idle it sounds like a typewriter factory.  Yeah.

[Bob_Roller]

Place a paper towel under the switch let it sit there when you're not using the bike .

Remove it and smell the oil that's be absorbed into the paper, you'll know gear loi when you smell it .

[montmil]

Place a paper towel under the switch let it sit there when you're not using the bike .

Remove it and smell the oil that's be absorbed into the paper, you'll know gear loi when you smell it .

You'll need to clean off the "shelf" with that small petroleum reservoir before laying the clean paper towel below the switch. Have fun with that project.

[steven m]

I can hardly wait...