Turn signal indicator relay etc.

[Graeme]

Hi - Went out for my morning and, lo & behold, the turn signal blinkers didn't blink. Just stayed on until I turned it off. I knew it was coming because the LH was doing the same for about ten minutes on beginning a ride before operating correctly.

Anyway, Motobins have this unit, which according to Haines, is the correct unit.  (Part No.74630).

I thought I'd like to restore the "sound" as well. Does this unit attend that?

While I'm fixing this, It's time to attend to other duties as well. The Neutral indicator indicates neutral all the time during changes. I've already been told that it's a diode. Rather than solder & desolder, I think I'd like to replace the diode board unit as a whole.

Also, when I had the Top End done up, the mechanic advised that I should clean out the handlebar switches. Sometimes the Electric Start doesn't start first go & it needs juggling.

There's nothing in Haine's to tell me how to get into it, (The accelerator control part is easy to access)  & I'm loathe to have a go without some sort of advice.

Thanks

It's an '84 LS.

[Bob_Roller]

Before you purchase a turn directional relay, how does the turn directional switch feel ?

Does it have a detent, or does it  feel limp / non distinct when using it ?

Not uncommon to have the switch plastic parts come apart with age and cause the turn directionals to not work or to stay on .

No, the relay will not have an audible sound, that was only on the first generation R65's, '78-'80 and that required additional wiring and the 'buzzer' as well  .

The part from Motobins is the correct relay .

The diode for the neutral indication problem, is located inside the starter relay, not outside in the harness (as the first generations bikes have ), or another component .

As far as cleaning the switches, they are not real user friendly to disassemble, a bit of small parts with springs and small steel ball  type parts and again the possibility of the plastic bits in there being in bad shape, there are no individual parts available for them, you need to replace the entire assembly .

[Graeme]

Before you purchase a turn directional relay, how does the turn directional switch feel ?

Does it have a detent, or does it  feel limp Yes, Rob, it does/ non distinct when using it ?

Not uncommon to have the switch plastic parts come apart with age and cause the turn directionals to not work or to stay on .

No, the relay will not have an audible sound, that was only on the first generation R65's, '78-'80 and that required additional wiring and the 'buzzer' as well  .

The part from Motobins is the correct relay .

The diode for the neutral indication problem, is located inside the starter relay, not outside in the harness (as the first generations bikes have ), or another component .

As far as cleaning the switches, they are not real user friendly to disassemble, a bit of small parts with springs and small steel ball  type parts and again the possibility of the plastic bits in there being in bad shape, ther are no individual parts available for them, you need to replace the entire assembly . I was "afraid" of that.

Thanks for the prompt reply, Rob. Replaceing the switches; does this mean the whole handlebar assembly & wiring that extends from it?

[Bob_Roller]

It means replacing the entire assembly, switches and wiring harness .

I'm on my second replacement turn directional / headlight switch assembly, the current turn directional switch is starting to feel like it's going bad (again!!!)  .

[tvrla]

It is possible to take them apart (I do) and they'll work a very long time if not abused. The first time apart can be frustrating, but there are tricks to make it easier. For one, do the work in a large, clear plastic bag - when springs and bearings launch, they won't fly to the other end of the room.

[Graeme]

..... For one, do the work in a large, clear plastic bag - when springs and bearings launch, they won't fly to the other end of the room.

Well, there's a good trick!  


When I bought this bike it had 12000 odd Kilometers on the clock. I didn't believe that, of course but when I had the top end reco'd, the mechanic told me that it was more likely 212,000 but still in good nick and the 'box would do another 100,000.

There's no doubt that the guy I bought it off saw me coming a mile off but I would have bought it anyway; 'just paid too much for it.

Anyway, I've resolved to "suck it up" and replace with new parts as  before it fails.

What can I do; I'm in love.. [smiley=laugh.gif]