One reason they're tricky is because the seats are an interference fit. The aluminum must be heated to expand the hole, the seat dropped in, and when the metal cools, it grips the seat tightly.
The problem is that the head, especially the exhaust valve, is the hottest part of the engine. If the job wasn't done properly two things can happen - the seat drop out when it's hot, or if the receiving area was cut too small (too much interference), the head can crack when it cools and shrinks.
There are other considerations, and booby traps to avoid. One of those is to not use the BMW valve guides since they're pre reamed for the valve stems. The problem with that is the guide changes when installed due to it's interference fit.
I'm no expert and can't tell you a whole lot more than that, but I do know it's a specialty job. I'm sure a shop that does a good job on Porsche or VW Bug heads could handle ours without a problem. Water cooled heads don't see the heat ours do, so don't require the exacting precision of air cooled heads.