Update on Matilda.

[geekmong]

Just thought i would give you an update on 'Matilda' the name given to my r65ls by my girlfriend, because of its fairing i assume.
Since purchasing in August 2011 i have managed to put on nearly 2000 miles mainly commuting to work and back including through the winter as it has been mild here so far.
I would like to thank Jon Greenall who sold me a caliper via this site and sent it from the USA at nearly half the cost of one from here in the UK, thanks Jon- it works a treat. I have also today replaced the rear shoes with EBC items and i can easily lock the back wheel now. Bleeding the front brakes as well has given me fantastic stopping power! I am impressed.
I would like some further advice as this week i will be replacing the push rod seals on the l/h side of the bike. I thought i as i will need to re adjust the valves i would look in the aperture for the tdc mark as i struggled before.
I found the following marks OT with a line above it and about 1 cm below a S with a line below it. Now which line do i use to line up with the small nick in the aperture, the one above the OT or the one below the S?
Also whilst turning the engine i saw another letter Z which someone had dabbed white paint on. What is this one for?

Any ideas anyone please as i don't want to mess up as i am worried i might damage valves.

 Many thanks Adrian

[Lucky_Lou]

Hi Adrian glad your happy with the bike,
According to Haynes the line above the S should line up with the notch(for up to 1980) but it is confusing mine also has the "Z".My bike is a 79 what year is yours and is it a electronic ignition being the LS?. if you havent done it yet you should strip the gearbox off lube the drive splines and clean/ paint the timing marks its about a 3 hour job but could save you alot of money if you dont know the history of the bike, the push rod seals are pretty straight forward you wont disturb the valve timing too much unless you remove the timing chain.
Maybe "Gertie" and "matilda" will get together some day
Lou

[suecanada]

Matt Parkhouse writes a good guide for setting valves over on the Airheads Beemer Club..technical tips...valve settings:

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/185/98/

Hope this Helps. The "OT" mark is the one to line up when setting the valves. Others will chime in about the other marks on that flywheel.
The one thing I would emphasis and help me guys say it properly: to know which cylinder is ready for valve setting, L or R, I try to spin those pushrod tubes with my fingers. If they spin easily, that is the side I work on and adjust first! Those pushrod tubes MUST be able to be rotated!!

Matt Parkhouse is a guru of great distinction!!

[Barry]

OT is TDC (Top Dead Centre)

S is the static timing mark at 6 Deg before TDC which is where your timing should be at idle.

Z is the full advance timing mark at 32 Deg before TDC and that's where your timing should be at 3000+ RPM

In each case the line above or below the OT S or Z is the actual timing mark to line up with the notch. Early bikes had a dot instead of a line.

[tvrla]

These are wonderful bikes, aren't they?

If the transmission is shifting ok, especially if it's not hanging up on downshifts, I wouldn't worry about greasing the trans input splines. Do that when you've got the time and space.

It's not critical to have the engine at exactly top dead center (OT for these german machines) to adjust the valves. As long as they both have free play (indicating top dead center of the compression stroke) you'll be fine.

Z indicates where the ignition timing should be at full advance.

S is where the ignition timing should be set at idle (static - no advance).

OT - the line above is top dead center (OT) - where the pistons are at their farthest reach.

[geekmong]

Many thanks for the replies, gives me more confidence for the upcoming work on her. Will let you all know how the seal changing goes. I think i have read everything on this site about push rod seals and am looking forward to the work.

i will keep you posted.

[geekmong]

Hi all, just a quick question. I have the parts now. The seal itself for the pushrod- i have read they have a seam on them that points to the earth when fitted. Mine have a small line on them (see photo). do i assume this points earthwards? thanks Adrian.

[nhmaf]

I believe that is correct - but do look at the old ones carefully as you start the job to confirm that you have them positioned the right way.

Make sure that you've got your torque wrench, feeler guages for setting valve lash, exhaust nut wrench, circlip tool, and, I'd recommend some new o-rings for the cylinder studs (you'll see where they go at the base against the engine case), and  a quality sealant such as Hylomar  (a very thin, even coat to be applied after cleaning off old residue and reseating the cylinder).

[montmil]

Da Snowbum has some excellent advice on this project. Suggest you completely read through his lengthy tome and harvest the hidden nuggets of gold. Save some whoopsee moments, you will.

Yamabond -easier sourced- is a good substitute for the Hylomar. choices, choices...

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/

I need to replace the weepy tube seals on the '81 R65. They sit patiently on the parts shelf, but as long as these 70+ degree January days continue, I'm going to ride rather than wrench. Been out once this morning already. More errands this afternoon and an outta town lunch run scheduled for Friday when it's supposed to hit 76-78[ch730] with light southerly. [smiley=clap.gif]

[geekmong]

cheers Monte, an excellent read by Snowbum and some great pics too. I have sourced much information on the seal replacements, i go to sleep visualising the day when my bmw is oil tight haha!

Here on the east coast of the uk, the temp. is a whopping 5 degrees c, or 42 degrees f. Still a dry day and i shall go for a ride on my favorite stretch of road. I shall be wearing at least 3 inner layers before my jacket goes on top!
All the best Adrian.

[Bill Conquest]

Hi Adrian - This is a job that I have to do sometime soon so i'll be watching your progress & hope to learn a few things..post some photo's if possible!
Thanks, Bill

[Air4Life]

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/pushrodseals.htm

Is the above the material you are referring to?  I ask because I dont see the "great pics" that Adrian sees.

 Â 

Da Snowbum has some excellent advice on this project. Suggest you completely read through his lengthy tome and harvest the hidden nuggets of gold. Save some whoopsee moments, you will.

Yamabond -easier sourced- is a good substitute for the Hylomar. choices, choices...

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/

I need to replace the weepy tube seals on the '81 R65. They sit patiently on the parts shelf, but as long as these 70+ degree January days continue, I'm going to ride rather than wrench. Been out once this morning already. More errands this afternoon and an outta town lunch run scheduled for Friday when it's supposed to hit 76-78[ch730] with light southerly. [smiley=clap.gif]