It is finally about time...

[montmil]

The hose you see in the area, is the crankcase breather hose, not too uncommon to have it crack/break due to age and heat .
Check the clamp on the top of the breather valve and see if it is tight .

It was nice and tight but looks a bit old. Will replace.

Be sitting down when you check the price for the BMW OEM breather hose! Big $$$$$ [smiley=cry.gif]

Motobins sells a nice repop for far less cash. Royal Air Mail gets it to you quickly and even with the exchange rate, you'll be w-a-y ahead on cost.

Monte

[tvrla]

Mine's all cracked to hell and needs replacing, but the big bucks they demand for that little curved rubber hose is rediculous! How much does Motobins want for theirs?

Also, I used to have weeping from the starter area drains and figured it was because of that breather hose. Probably was, but since re-ringing the bike, that's all gone away.

[montmil]

$18.00 at the 'Bins v $41.00 OEM

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=51897&btnr=11_1712&hg=11&fg=10

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

I just checked this morning on the A&S BMW parts site, the price they had was $72US for the hose/tube !!!!!

[azcycle]

Seriously? Motobins is HALF the price of BikeBandit when looking at clutch parts. Looks like I'll be purchasing from them, even with shipping!

Clutch question. While I haven't actually opened it up to see if the clutch plate has stripped splines, I'm 99% positive that is the problem.  Looking at Motobins... they've got a "Quality Italian Made" friction plate for $58 US vs. the OEM $84 model.

Anyone have any thoughts on the "italian" made clutch friction plate... or should I just stick with OEM BWM bits?

[montmil]

Seriously? Motobins is HALF the price of BikeBandit when looking at clutch parts. Looks like I'll be purchasing from them, even with shipping!

Clutch question. While I haven't actually opened it up to see if the clutch plate has stripped splines, I'm 99% positive that is the problem.  Looking at Motobins... they've got a "Quality Italian Made" friction plate for $58 US vs. the OEM $84 model.

Anyone have any thoughts on the "italian" made clutch friction plate... or should I just stick with OEM BWM bits?

Some of the Motobins repops are just fine. I have their bargain priced, Italian-made neutral switch that fits in the bottom of the transmission and it's all metal; no plastic and no weeping oil as with the BMW OEMs.

That said, I'd would stay with the OEM clutch parts rather than a mix n' match collection. Check eBay for some OEM bargains on clutch bits. The few bucks saved on the clutch job won't be worth the performance and peace of mind that comes with a long-term item such as the Airhead clutch with all OEM parts.

As the LA taxi driver said to Burt Munro/Anthony Hopkins in the most excellent flic, The World's Fastest Indian. "Open your wallet old man and let the moths out."

Monte

[azcycle]

That was how I was leaning, too. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. No time to work tonight but I hope to really get in there this weekend and get it torn down.

[azcycle]

Update!

First off, I have to say just amazed I am at how EASY this bike is to work on. My brief venture into fixing up a basketcase 1976 Honda Goldwing was much different. Granted, it hadn't run in who knows how many years, while my r65 has only been down for one but still... I've got to appreciate the simplicity and great design of this machine.

So anyway, spent Saturday morning tearing the r65 down. One hangup I had was that I couldn't get the swingarm back far enough to slip a piece of wood in to hold it. The custom saddlebags were interfering so I ended up removing the entire rear end. Good anyway as I want to re-grease the final drive splines.  Transmission came out quite easily!


And it confirmed my suspicion. The input splines were stripped. While obviously ruined on the transmissison side, they were better than I thought. They actually stripped out on one side more than the other.


But the clutch was shredded smooth. Too bad, as the clutch measured well within it's specs... still had a lot of life left in it.


And lots of grit:


Other clutch pieces were in good shape, though obviously streaked with lots of grease/oil. Not sure if I can reuse them. I might just buy everything new.


Now the potentially bad part. When I removed the flywheel, the teeth on the BACK side (engine facing side) had been chewed up. I can't find where it was rubbing but it was obviously rubbing, and fresh, as the metal was bright. However, the damage wasn't even all the way 'round the flywheel. It was worse on one side. Bolts were snug, as they should be and I could detect no movement when it was mounted. Have any of you seen this type of damage?


Finally, I removed the oil pump housing cover and noticed that there were rub marks on the inside.  Is this normal? (This is after I removed the old, squared-off O-ring and cleaned it.


Also dropped the oil pan and scrubbed it clean. There were a few pieces of something in the bottom of the pan. Not metal... slivers of plastic, I'd say. Four or five, about 1/4" long and brittle. They crumbled when I rolled them in my fingers. Thoughts?

So, it's obvious I'm going to have to buy an entire new clutch assembly. All this I've read about putting everything 120 degrees apart due to weight fluctuations.  Will the new pieces I buy be marked on the heavy side so I know?  Otherwise, how the heck do I find out where the heavy side is of each piece?  Or is it REALLY that important ... ?

[clonmore1]

Great shots and very helpful, thanks!

[Bob_Roller]

The teeth on the flywheel, might be from contact with the starter gear, the gear might not be coming out all the way or not going back in when the starter is not running, lacking lubricant, etc...

Oil pump cover doesn't look bad, the pump rotor is a close fit to the cover, can you feel any grooves in the cover ?

What color are/were the plastic pieces, black, if they were, they may be from the black plastic rub block that contacts the timing chain to tension it .

You can clean the plates and spring to get the oil off of them .

Check them for trueness, by placing a straight egde across them and see if they are worn or warped .

[montmil]

Your BMW oil pump cover looks like every air-cooled V-Dub I've opened up. The pump gears actually rub against the cover so the wear pattern you see is "normal" for our tractor motors.

Tend to agree with Bob Roller's comment on the flywheel teeth. The start gear may not have been fully retracting. Possibly held proud by excess hardened grease. The flywheel will likely not need replacing. Perhaps dress down sharp edges...

Your transmission and clutch disc will be tasty scare photos for folks asking about the necessity of lubricating trans and final drive splines.

Monte

[azcycle]

I can most definitely feel the worn areas in the oil pump cover, so I'll replace it.  I measured across both the pressure plate and pressure ring for any warping and I can't seem to find any. My level sat, well... level. Good to know I won't have to replace everything.

I'll file the burred edges off the flywheel and leave it as-is. The worn areas really aren't TOO bad but it was disconcerting. I do see that it is the starter teeth not fully disengaging. The starter teeth look to be in okay shape as well, but I'll take a closer look once I remove it.

And speaking of removing the starter.  Is there ANY way to remove the starter without having to remove the whole front alternator/timing cover piece?  I've already got the crank blocked and would prefer to leave it that way for now. But if I can get in and remove the starter while I wait for my new clutch parts and without removing the front part of the engine... that'd be great.

[Bob_Roller]

All you need to do, is to remove the top cover on the engine, there's two allen head bolts holding it on .

The cover can be a bit fiddly to get off, it's a tight fit, couple of taps with a rubber hammer should do it .

If it is difficult, file down the ends a bit so it goes back on easier .

[azcycle]

Ah, I've got the top cover off and the two bolts loosened. I thought there was a third bolt up front under the front cover.  Thanks!

Just dropped some $$ at Motobins UK. New friction plate and spring, miscellaneous bolts, oil pump cover, clutch alignment tool, and the oil breather tube.  *whew*  Also ordered some new stainless braided brake lines. While I'm waiting for everything, I'll strip/repaint the valve covers.

[azcycle]

Trailtech Vapor (with light-filled dashboard) is on it's way! I'm brainstorming a mounting bracket that will also incorporate the ignition key switch and a custom charging light.