1983 R65LS Steering Head Threaded Holes

[badbmwbrad]

I observe white plastic plugs (2) inserted within threaded holes on my bike's steering head.  The holes face forward and are spaced ~4" apart.  The hole diameter is ~5mm.  

Does anyone know what function do these threaded holes serve?

Are the threaded holes for installation of Zerk fittings?

[nhmaf]

Picture might help.  some people do fit zerk fittings in the tube in a misguided attempt to lubricate steering head bearings the 'easy' way.  The truth is, that won't work.  Greasing those bearings should be done with pulling the stem, cleaning out the old grease, applying fresh grease, and properly pre-loading the bearings on re-installation.   Now, this CAN be done without removing the front wheel from the forks, but you need to have a good way of supporting things.

[Barry]

I did fit a grease nipple to my last bike because the original bearings had failed due to ingress of water. It worked up to a point and seemed to keep the water out.  Pumping the grease was messy as it always preferred coming out the bottom bearing and not the top which sort of defeated the object as it was the top bearing that the water liked to get into.

I understand it might not work on a BMW because the headstock can be open to the frame tubes. In any case it would only stand a chance of working with clean bearings. If the original dried up grease is in there forget it. Best to do the job properly every 5 to 10 years.

[Bob_Roller]

The threaded holes are for a mount for an f OEM fairing .

The threads are straight for a bolt, not tapered for a grease fitting .

You can make the method work, if you get a length of threaded rod two large area washers and two large rubber grommets and two nuts .

Put the threaded rod through the 10mm hex on the steering nut, place a grommet and large area washer on top and bottom , put nuts on the rod and tighten them up to seal off the hollow steering stem .

You'll get grease through both upper and lower bearings .

I only did this after removing the bearings and checked them for wear, damage .

[badbmwbrad]

Thanks Bob.  If I understand correctly, the grommets and washers act as a grease dam to prevent grease from entering the inside of the steering stem?  Do the grommets lay against the outside (top/bottom) of the steering stem?

The threaded holes are for a mount for an f OEM fairing .

The threads are straight for a bolt, not tapered for a grease fitting .

You can make the method work, if you get a length of threaded rod two large area washers and two large rubber grommets and two nuts .

Put the threaded rod through the 10mm hex on the steering nut, place a grommet and large area washer on top and bottom , put nuts on the rod and tighten them up to seal off the hollow steering stem .

You'll get grease through both upper and lower bearings .

I only did this after removing the bearings and checked them for wear, damage .

[Bob_Roller]

Yes. the grommets and washers keep the grease in the steering stem, otherwise it just comes out the bottom and no grease gets into the bearings for the most part .

I'll get a picture or two posted possibly this weekend of what I've devised .

[badbmwbrad]

A photograph would be very helpful.  I have lowered (but not removed ) a steering stem on a Honda Gold Wing before.  I didn't have the correct tool for tightening the stem nut and made do with a giant crescent wrench.  I'd prefer not having to resort to such a crude method on my R65LS and would like to get the grease in without disassembly.

Last weekend, I parked the bike in the sun for a couple hours.  The steering head grease softened and the handlebars turned normally.  After the steering head cooled, some of the stiffness returned.  The grease has probably separated (thickener separates from lubricant).

[nhmaf]

All that you need to do to clean and grease the headbearings is this - though I would STRONGLY suggest that you do pull the fuel tank off first to avoid denting/dinging it - we were incredibly lucky this time...

[badbmwbrad]

I fixed it!  Both the photograph and suggested grease dam helped me to understand the steering head bearings arrangement.

A spray can of lithium grease (with red-colored small bore plastic tube inserted into the spray nozzle) was used to direct grease into the bearing roller cage/raceway interface.  Grease was spray-propelled into the lower roller bearing.  This helped a little.  

The same method was used to spray-inject grease beneath the knurled adjusting nut.  This completely eliminated the fork-turning drag.  I think there must be a water seal beneath the brg adj nut.  

Yes. the grommets and washers keep the grease in the steering stem, otherwise it just comes out the bottom and no grease gets into the bearings for the most part.

All that you need to do to clean and grease the headbearings is this - though I would STRONGLY suggest that you do pull the fuel tank off first to avoid denting/dinging it - we were incredibly lucky this time...

[nhmaf]

Umm, I don't mean to rain on your parade, but personally I'd use a thicker, heavier grease than the white lithium spray stuff on steering head bearings.

Others may disagree, bit I find the lithium stuff to not handle heavy loads real well, and it doesn't stay liquid for long/tends to dry out - works good on bicycle chains on stuff like that where it gets frequently replaced, but I like a thick, viscous, tacky bearing grease for head bearings.

[badbmwbrad]

I agree the lithium grease is probably not ideal.  It's hard for me to believe a few quick spritzes of grease I sprayed from a can into the underside of the bearing adjusting nut actually made it all the way to the upper bearing rollers.  

I suspect there must have been some old grease which oozed out from the upper bearing and was dragging on the adjusting nut.  The lithium grease probably reduced the friction in this area.  

Umm, I don't mean to rain on your parade, but personally I'd use a thicker, heavier grease than the white lithium spray stuff on steering head bearings.

Others may disagree, bit I find the lithium stuff to not handle heavy loads real well, and it doesn't stay liquid for long/tends to dry out - works good on bicycle chains on stuff like that where it gets frequently replaced, but I like a thick, viscous, tacky bearing grease for head bearings.