Removing front wheel from 1979 R65-wuz wrong?

[Barry_Ferguson]

I loosened, a lot, the pinch bolts on both fork legs, removed nut and washer from end of axle, put a tommy bar crosswize through end of axle, twisted and pulled like mad.  The
axle moved about 4 inches.  It is clear of left fork but does not want to move further out.
Thanks for any help on this.

Barry, still learning

[Bob_Roller]

Have you tried holding the tire/wheel to take the tension off of the axle, it may just be bound up due to one end of the axle is not supported by the fork tube.

Also when reinstalling the axle, out some antiseize compound on the axle, it will lube the area and help keep water out .

[Dizerens5]

Try a brass drift and plastic hammer.

[montmil]

May be a little interior corrosion or rust on the axle. Keep the front wheel lined up along the axle's axis line, then drift the axle out... gently.

Suggest a good inspection of the front wheel bearings and races, too.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I had difficulty reinstalling the axle the last couple of years.


_{click on pic for HUGE image}

Then I disassembled my forks to rebuild them.  One side still had the plastic bumper intact, the other side was disintegrated.  I believe that was enough to cause the problem.  Since the rebuild all has been smooth and normal.

Granted, I never had much trouble taking it apart.  Have you not had this bike for very long?  Is this the first time removing the wheel?

[Barry_Ferguson]

Thanks to all for your suggestions.  Bob_Roller's got me thinking along
the lines that the wheel was cocked.  So I put my foot against the wheel,
on the bottom, called up my best swear words and tried again--came
right off.

It has been a long time since I last got up close and personal with motorcycles
and I am relearning.  Bot my first BMW, R26, in late 50' while still in
college.  Later a used R60.  Still later a new R75/5, picked up at (near)
factory in Munich.  Rode it down the autobahn to my flat in France where
I was passing a sabatical.  Exciting, that.  Sold the R75 in 1975 and have not
ridden since.

Rob Valdez, you must be psychic.  Yes, I have had this bike for about a
week.  Got a deal on it. Bike was sitting on a patio untouched for last 5
years. Lots to sort out. Anxiously awaiting a copy of the Hanes manual
so I can go through the carbs and straighten them out. Dealer just rebuilt
them for the seller. As turned over to me, bike would not start. Dealer
wanted more money to go through the carbs again (after all the bike
has since sat for one month). I do not want this dealer touching the
bike again  .  I pulled the plugs. Left on stark white on insulator tip--
too lean. Right cylinder plug sooty black--extremely rich. With new plugs
it started right up but I am sure they will foul again.  Letting it idle and
shutting off the fuel petcock the engine slowly speeds up to twice the
original idle speed and they shuts down  .

Again, many thanks.  Once I get up to speed again I hope I can
contribute.  Great group.

Sincerely, Barry

[Barry]

Letting it idle and
shutting off the fuel petcock the engine slowly speeds up to twice the
original idle speed and then shuts down.

Welcome,

We can always use another Barry on the forum.

Interesting experiment with the carbs. Maybe the grossly rich right cylinder is leaning out to something near normal as the fuel level falls. Question is why is it so rich. Unless the idle mixture screw is miles off I can't think of another reason except  enricher parts incorrectly assembled.

[montmil]

Guess we'll need to begin referring to either Barry#1 (Cheshire) or Barry#2 (locale unknown).

Of course, there's the screen names but what fun is that?

Barry#2 says, "Rob Valdez, you must be psychic."  Psychic! That's the word. All this time I thought Rob was psycho. These "psy" words are s-o-o-o confusing.

Monte

[Barry_Ferguson]

To Barry#1:  Nice to meet another Barry.  There are not
enuf of us  .  Actually my first name is made up of two
words: Le Baron, hence the nickname Barry.
     Yes, idling and cutting the fuel supply is an old trick.
The mixture then gradually leans out.  Watch the tach.
If the rpm's go up your idle is too rich (but it is usually
not so severe as to make the idle speed double     ).

To Monte:  A few other possibilities for a too rich
mixture:  the float level may be high,  needle valve
leaking or float waterlogged (fuelloged?) and sinking.
Also, I once took off a fuel bowl and sitting calmly in
the bottom was the jet. (Dont ask whose fault that was.)

Sincerely,
Barrry#2

[montmil]

Where do you call home, Barry Two?

So we have now segued from the front axle to the carbs. A double header, so to speak.
And peeps wonder why our "Search" feature is gerfunken. No biggie.

Monte

[Barry_Ferguson]

Answering Monte,

I am in Southern California, Moreno Valley to be
exact.  About 50 miles inland from LA.  Have a
machine shop in Riverside, just next door. That
has been a hobby for about 50 years--now trying
to make it pay.

I am afraid there will be a lot of segueing before I
get this bike sorted out.

I took off the rear wheel also (replacing both tires).
The grease on the splines looks awful.  Some has
run down the hub to the shoes also. Maybe not
much but the tracks are there  .  Final drive has
oil around the drain plug.  Hopefully just not tight
or a bad washer.

Tranny has an issue also.  Sometimes does not want
to engage 1st from neutral.  Will if first shift into
second.  Also, shift lever very worn.  This last is
easy.  I will upgrade to the needle bearing pivot.
All I need to do is bore out the pivot in the arm
and fit the bearing. Piece of cake with a machine shop.

And the beat goes on,
Barry#2

[Barry]

Tranny has an issue also.Sometimes does not want
to engage 1st from neutral.

If you mean it does this with the bike at a standstill that's probably normal behaviour. Could be the dogs just didn't line up that's all. With a dry clutch there is no oil drag to slowly rotate the shafts so sometimes you have to do something to rotate them a little before 1st will engage. Release the clutch lever and pull it in again. Rolling the bike forward a little also works. Another method for the brave and careful rider is to release the clutch slowly while maintaining pressure on the gear lever. As soon as the clutch drags just a little the dogs will engage at which point you pull the lever in again until you are ready to take off.

It's not a fault just the inevitable result of a dry clutch and no synchro's. I think in the post airhead gearboxs at some point something was done to build in a slight bit of clutch drag.

[Barry_Ferguson]

To Barry#1,

Great info on tranny. I will sleep better tonight.
Many thanks.

Barry#2

[montmil]

 ...The grease on the splines looks awful...

Honda Moly grease will fix you right up. A small tube from your local dealer will last several lifetimes.

Clean out the old grease in the splines as best as you can. Apply some of the Moly to the exposed splines but avoid over-packing the splines down "in the well".

Excess grease will be squeezed out and foul the brake drum and shoes. A little goes a long way.

Monte