Semper Regarding the K100rs front was it as simple as unbolt the r65 and bolt on the K? Also in regard to what steve just said the ability to find wire wheels would become easier with the K set up no? If I got a set of Brembos with the forks
The part numbers for the steering head bearings are the same. So yes you can un-bolt the R65 stuff and bolt on the the 1988 K100RS forks. What ever year you get you should go on the AScycles web site and make sure the steering head bearings are the same part number. Then it will work. The forks are longer than the R65 but I have found no reason to run the triple trees down the forks yet. I know of no wire wheel set up in the K100rs front ends but then I wasn't looking for wire wheels. I really wanted the wider tubeless alloy wheel and the thicker axel.
I was also looking for the same for to wheel axel relationship. The R65 has the axel on the bottom of the fork. I stayed away from K100 Forks that had axel on the front of the fork (like late model R100GS) although I was willing to try if the price was right.
But I had decided on what I wanted because I was tired of dealing with my wobble R65 front end - K100 forks with the axel on the bottom - complete. Then one night I was lurking on ebay and a set of complete forks -- Triple trees, forks, fork brace , fender, wheel, brake rotors, calipers and axel came up for a Buy it now Price of $400.00. I quickly hoped over to A&Scycle site to check the parts fisch for the steering head numbers. Then I went back and pounced on it. If I had bought all those bits from BMW I have no idea what it would have cost. Oh and I got a good Bridgestone BT45F 100/90V18 tire on it as well. All showed up for $75.00 shipping 4 days later. I hauled the whole kit and kaboodle over to Boxerworks and Nathan and Dean installed it for another $400.
The only downside to doing this is my stock R65 instument bracket while bolted in the top is tye wrapped at the bottom. This i can fix when I want to.
The other thing is that the K100RS font end has rubber isolators between the handle bars and the top tripple tree. Normally this is not a problem because the K100RS has low euro bars. My bars a 12inch pull backs. So now the bars move about (fore and aft). I have gotten used to this. But when somebody who hasn't ridden it gets on and tries it they get a shock the first time they hit the brakes.
Bennies - Razor sharp handling above 65mph rock steady all the way to 90mpg with my draggy Lufty fairing and heavy Givi bags. Oh and I have traded my ATE brake callipers for Brembos.
It took me a long time do decide what I wanted and then to hunt down kill it and bring it home. I tried everything to make the stock set up work better at speed but nothing worked. Not the Teliflex fork brace, not the progressive springs. The only thing that helped at all was tightning the rear pivot bolts to the max torque of its allowed range.
Actually that's not true. I didn't try the frame brace tube from below the steering head to behind the tranny. I also didn't try the San Jose rear swing arm brace. People I talked to (Eddie James for one) said that the frame brace didn't work. The said that the rear swing arm brace helped a bit but that it wasn't worth the money and time to tear everything apart and have it sent off and get it back. SO I went with changing the front end and scored bigtime. [smiley=bmw_smiley.gif]