Either what Bob says or,
1) Check the final drive "oil level" bolt. Run your finger on the case under the bolt. There should be a crush washer used with the small bolt. However, for me...
The threads within the drive case can be easily stripped by someone who's a bit ham-fisted. My '81 came to me with, at no additional charge, a stripped and heli-coil repaired case. Grrrr
I tried multiple times using crush washers but to no avail. A thin rivulet of gear oil continued to wend its sticky way to the bottom of the drive case where it dripped onto the rear tire and shop floor.
Ultimately, I did a ghetto fix by using a hard plastic/rubber compound faucet washer from Ace Hardware and BMW Supply. Snugged the bolt down. Snug only. No more leaks.
2) I also replaced the small O-rings and exterior felt washer on the brake cam shaft. That stopped even more dino juice.
3) Finally, I broke down and replaced the honkin' big oil seal in the final drive case. It lives under the Cardan cover. Need a new paper gasket for that job.
I did find a tiny nick on the hardened final drive surface near the oil seal's contact point- how it got there is a PO's story I'm guessing.
By a slight reposition of the big oil seal, I got away from the nick and the rear end of the '81 no longer wears Adult Pampers.
4) This is a stretch but the domed filler plug on top of the final drive is a vent to atmosphere. Remove the filler bolt/vent and confirm it's not plugged up. Right, Sue?

Run dino oil rather than synthetic. The synthetic oils seem to create oil leaks in the old Airheads.
It's not just oil, It's liquid engineering. -Castrol. Yeah, right.
Final thought... Confirm the final drive is not overfilled. A wee bit under does no harm. Also avoid parking the bike tail down slope as that will artificially raise the oil level in the final drive while you're parked... drip, drip, drip
Glad you made it back, APGirl.
Monte