Making a stand

[montmil]

I have the one like you and then the "Hernia" model on the Parts Bike, I was going to switch to it since looks in better shape, but am I being instructed otherwise?

Learn at the Master's knee, Grasshopper. [smiley=shocked2.gif]

Monte

I have, indeed, had 3 hernia operations since buying my R65 (in 1980).

[Barry]

I have the one like you and then the "Hernia" model on the Parts Bike, I was going to switch to it since looks in better shape, but am I being instructed otherwise?  

mmm... I should make a stand about the old stand


I bow to the experience of those who have the superior newer stand and I'm sure it's wonderful.

However I beg to differ that the older stand need be hernia inducing. Mine was that way inclined until I repaired it and now it's as easy for this 10 [size=8]1/2[/size] stone weakling to put on and off the stand as any bike I've ever owned. In case I was deluded about this I just went out to the garage in my carpet slippers and took the bike off and put it back on it's stand just for fun. Yep it was easy so to answer your question it is not necessarily mandatory to have the newer stand.

[RSMike]

point taken Barry, you have obviously done a good job fixing your stand, however as I have ordered the new one now, I'm  thinking ahead to doing the job &,I have a question about lifting the bike to remove the old stand.

I normally use my little bike lift under the center stand to lift the bike when jobs need doing
It goes crossways under the folded stand like so:



obviously I can't lift it this way when I need to remove the stand.

Would it be safe to place the lift length-ways under the sump with a block of wood and lift under the sump?

or what do others do /recommend?

Cheers

Mike

[montmil]

Mike, If you'll cut a bit of lumber to fit, perhaps drill a recess for the oil drain plug, you'll be fine. I did this and used a hydraulic bottle jack for the lift. Raised it just enough for the removal / refit.

Think safety. If you can keep a tire on the ground, secure it from rotating. Strap the front brake lever or put the trans in low gear. Don't allow that scooter to fall. I'd hate to see your beautiful R65 nicked. Oh... nor you, too, Mike.

Monte

[Milo_357]

Just any FYI, the foot peg was broken off my bike when I bought it.  It's now got a 3 inch threaded bolt JB Weld'ed into the stand. Cost me nuthin'

 

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Every time I have removed my center stand I have used the side stand as primary support.  A little awkward, but it can be done.

I "fixed" my hernia stand by having SS plate welded onto the bottom and tapered at the front.

[Barry]

I too removed the main stand with the bike supported on the side stand.  I put a couple of 2" planks under the wheels and something a thicker under the side stand so the bike stood a little more vertical. I rigged up a couple of cargo straps to fixings in the garage wall so the bike couldn't fall over while I was working on test fitting the main stand.

[RSMike]

It was a rainy afternoon here so I decided to get at it and remove the stand, even though the new one has not yet arrived, I didn't use the sump as a lifting point in the end, instead used some car support stands under the pegs and crash bars:


I have now removed the stand, but about those "sheet metal shackles" as Monte called them, that the springs were attached to, is there some knack to removing them?, I could not see how to remove them

[montmil]

... but about those "sheet metal shackles" as Monte called them, that the springs were attached to, is there some knack to removing them?, I could not see how to remove them

Our 'lustrus potentate Justin M sez his would simply lift off over the 'keyhole' opening. Huh...

Well, the studs on the frame cluster on both my R65s are so close to the crankcase that you can't slide a red hair between 'em.

Fortunately, the shackles are made of a soft steel/tin. Aviation snips cut almost to the stud pivot opening, then a pair of pliers twisted the piece until it fatigued and broke away. Be sure you've got the new, longer springs before you chop off the existing spring anchors.

Monte

[RSMike]

Stand arrived today ordered Friday from Sherlock's, so as well as being more competitive on price than the other UK parts guys he also seems quicker.

First two things I noticed

(1) The ends of the newer type stand are still a laminated construction, so I guess ultimately are prone to the same wear as the original, so reinforces Barry's point that a repaired original is probably as good as a new one (except for the handy foot pad on the newer type).


(2) Lining the two stands up with their feet aligned, the new one is noticeably higher (could be as much as 5mm).



and onto those curious shackles:

... but about those "sheet metal shackles" as Monte called them, that the springs were attached to, is there some knack to removing them?, I could not see how to remove them

Our 'lustrus potentate Justin M sez his would simply lift off over the 'keyhole' opening. Huh...

Well, the studs on the frame cluster on both my R65s are so close to the crankcase that you can't slide a red hair between 'em.

Fortunately, the shackles are made of a soft steel/tin. Aviation snips cut almost to the stud pivot opening, then a pair of pliers twisted the piece until it fatigued and broke away. Be sure you've got the new, longer springs before you chop off the existing spring anchors.

Monte

I even tested one of the newer springs with the shackles in place as there were three possible springs to order, and there was some doubt about which one was correct.

The good news is I got the right ones (p/n 114583 on Sherlock's 2V list).
One thing I don't have in my arsenal of tools is a good heavy duty snips, however I found with a little bit of patience and repeated bending, our old friend metal fatigue got the job done:



Job done!,  


Yes, I know the springs are on opposite ways, but it works and when they are new they are bloody hard to snap into place. Another skinned knuckle to prove it!

First time I took the bike off the new stand, I was so used to the old one that I pushed too hard, I had to run after the bike to hold it ,  

Also its nice to see both wheels just clear of the ground at last.

Highly recommend this job to anyone suffering with a worn stand, its a simple job and makes a big difference.
Thanks all for your help and advice, and to Paul for starting the thread which pushed me to sort out this problem.

[RSMike]

Job done!,  

Well maybe not quite......, the old stand's peg kinda used the clip and bolt that joins the silencers to the exhaust header (on the left) as a stop, and I never worried too much about that



however the new rounded peg contacts the silencer just behind the clip, and with the new springs bangs rather loudly against it, I would prefer some kind of rubber stop somewhere, Not sure if there was one originally and its gone missing or there never was one, Whats the advice?

[Barry]

however the new rounded peg contacts the silencer just behind the clip, and with the new springs bangs rather loudly against it, I would prefer some kind of rubber stop somewhere, Not sure if there was one originally and its gone missing or there never was one, Whats the advice?  

I'm not sure that a bumper was ever fitted from new on the older bikes. Certainly the parts fiches don't show one and I can't see where it would fit anyway.

On my original stand the left hand leg is quite a bit longer than the right which must have been a deliberate design so that the rubber end plug acts as a stop when it contacts the lower frame tube.  I added a piece of rubber cut from a thick rubber hose to the frame tube in an attempt to further cushion the action and stop the stand clanking when it springs up.

[Darwin_R65]

Hi all, been AWOL for a while from this forum, but I'm still above ground and still riding my R65 everyday.

I decided to have a "mental health day" instead of work, and I attacked my centre stand today with the welder. Mine is the old "hernia" style but a nut had come loose and eventually worn a chamfer on the stand stops. I welded it back and added a bit of meat, then filed it down square. At first I thought you beauty its better than ever, but discovered i had too much weld and a small knock would move the bike forward off the stand. Not good when you have young children who love your bike to bits. So after a couple of hours of fitting and refitting the stand it all seems good.

Previously my front wheel was on the ground, now I have about 2 inches in the air.

What is standard for the centre stand down? the front touching the ground or not? As a fat bastard i have the rear shocks on the hardest setting, because they are always carrying full load with me on.

Actually its always overloaded.

cheers

John

[Darwin_R65]

Yes, I know the springs are on opposite ways, but it works and when they are new they are bloody hard to snap into place. Another skinned knuckle to prove it!

i found it easier to connect the springs first and then wrench the holes into place and slide the bolt through. But then I tend to do things arse about sometimes.
 
John

[Barry]

At first I thought you beauty its better than ever, but discovered i had too much weld and a small knock would move the bike forward off the stand. Not good when you have young children who love your bike to bits. So after a couple of hours of fitting and refitting the stand it all seems good.

I had the very same experience after adding too much weld and spent a long time with the angle grinder and trial refitting before I made it stable enough. I actually left it on the "slightly unstable" side on the assumption it would settle in a bit but it hasn't. After the repair my bike has also moved to sitting on the back wheel instead of the front but it's finely balanced and depends on the slope of the ground.

Previously my front wheel was on the ground, now I have about 2 inches in the air. What is standard for the centre stand down? the front touching the ground or not?

Good question. I wonder if Bob Roller can remember when his bike was new.