New rebuild in the Northwest

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

And the bean can is easy.  It is keyed so that it can only connect to the camshaft the proper way.
You might want to put a mark on the timing case and the bean can with a Sharpie so you can get it back in the approximately correct position on reassembly.

And the bean can has an o-ring as an oil seal.  You may want to consider renewing that, while you are at it.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=51897&btnr=12_0776&hg=12&fg=05

[montmil]

Bill, I have a photo essay in the Photo Gallery that may possibly provide you with some assistance in removing the timing case cover.

http://www.suraklyn.com/r65_forum_gallery/thumbnails.php?album=35

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

That is a great gallery, Monte!  Too bad you can't vote for a gallery.  I had to go back through them all so I could give them all a 5-star rating!

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

[movedhere] General Announcements [move by] Rob Valdez 79 R65.

[montmil]

Here's some shots from the dismantling that might help.

Oh, I had not noticed the BMW OEM Crack-O-Matic ignition coil in the photos.

Get thee a Dyna ignition coil, muy pronto y ride happy.

Monte

[Barry]

05 841211 and EBM 09 8042A2. Any ideas if there is a date hidden in there?

A bit late and maybe academic interest only as this does not explain Billb's engine codes. It did get me thinking about month and year though.

Billb's numbers (05 841211 and EBM 09 8042A2) don't look much like that suggested below and the numbers on my own engine are different again so BMW must have changed the numbering system more than once.

A wild guess I suppose but perhaps Bill your engine is

from the first set of numbers a May 84 build Serial No 1211

or

from the 2nd set of numbers a Sept 80 build serial number 42A2

 

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Nice find, Barry, but I think I like the 7-digit number better.

And Billb says his numbers & letters are as follows:*

There is a metal plate on the engine that reads 05 841211 and EBM 09 8042A2. Any ideas if there is a date hidden in there?

I don't see his code following those rules.  I'd like to see a close-up picture of his panel.

*oops!  I just read your post, closer!

[Barry]

When I looked at my panel Rob which is below the left cylinder the numbers didn't follow those rules and didn't look anything like Billb's either. The only thing I could recognise is "248" which is our short stroke engine type.

[bbell1]

Rob, here's a shot of the plate.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

yeah - like Barry said - it seems the Type 248s don't follow the guidelines laid out in that engine build code article.  

[bbell1]

I kinda feel like France. I'm always there when I need you....

Progress and questions. I am now resigned to the fact that every part of this bike has to go and be taken off at least 4 times. An example would be... Waiting for parts so decided to put the rear fender on. Finished recovering the seat. Test fit the seat. Latches closed. Latch frozen even after removal, cleaning and reinstalling (not that i necessarily did it right...) Need to get the locking mechanism/latch off. Need to take off the fender. Dismantle the latch. Release the seat. Repeat. At least one gets to know the parts intimately.

Some questions.

As part of the electricals along the backbone, at the very rear is a relay without anything plugged in. Any ideas on use? Extra? Mod?


Also, when rewiring the ignition switch, one wire placement that doesn't seem to be listed is this one:

I think the wiring schematic I saw had 4 slots, mine seems to have 5 so I might just have them in the wrong places.

Ironically, the next question is about an orphan lead down by the coil on the left side with similar wire colors. Also different connector types.


Part of this is probably because I bought a replacement right handle control unit with master cylinder off ebay. The one I received is different than my original. The original had a cable that matches the connector by the coil and I'm guessing it works the rear light?. With the new rig, there's no separate cable for this, only the main cable to the white bus.

[montmil]

"As part of the electricals along the backbone, at the very rear is a relay without anything plugged in. Any ideas on use? Extra? Mod?"

   The light blue color cube? That's an accessory plug rather than a relay. You're fortunate to have the  OEM rubber cover still in situ.

"Also, when rewiring the ignition switch, one wire placement that doesn't seem to be listed is this one:
I think the wiring schematic I saw had 4 slots, mine seems to have 5 so I might just have them in the wrong places."

   Okay, I'm working from memory here, but when I replaced the steering head bearings and races on   my 1983 R65, it was necessary to remove just about everything from the fuel tank forward. IIRC,
my ignition switch had an open terminal but checking the Clymer manual showed me the correct  hookup. Thank goodness for color tracer wire. Gotta manual?

Hoping some of this info answers a few of your questions.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

This is where it really pays to have a owners manual (still available).
The diagram in the book has the terminal numbers, but I can't read them on my own scan, nor on the PDF that is in our FAQ section.
If you have a book, you should have your answer there.

http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=01462&go=GO

[bbell1]

Now that's ironic... Received my manual today. Was sent the wrong one so will have the right one shortly.

[bbell1]

i kinda figured out the different right handle bar setups and took the master cylinder off the ebay one and put it on the original. The bought one was a Magura (?) rather than stock stuff. It also had two throttle cables right out of the throttle housing rather than single to double.

Now the wiring...