Header Nut Removal

[Hrvatin]

So I received my "dedicated" wrench to remove the exhaust header retainers, and remembered reading that these can gall onto the heads.  Since it is a bit cold here in Ohio, most of my wrenching is going on in my head, anticipating the removal of the nuts.  I did try briefly, and they seem very tight, ( I almost lifted off the center stand!)  Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has any tricks so I do not strip out the heads.  I was thinking of heating the nuts to expand them, or penetrating oil and let it soak.
What is the collective opinion of the group?
Thanks for any thoughts.

Ron

[Bob_Roller]

Is there any sign of the nuts having been removed before ?

Like areas on the nut fins that show  wear from the removal tool ?

If there aren't, my suggestion would be be to cut the nuts off and don't even try to remove them by trying to unscrew them .

If they haven't had anti-seize compound on them, I would say there is a 99.99% chance they are seized onto the 'spigot' on the cylinder head .

Cost to have the threads repaired is around $100-125US per head .

I would purchase new nuts they are about $20 each new from BMW .

I first removed the exhaust from my '81 when it had 45,000 miles on it .

I used a 25 pound dead blow hammer on the removal tool, the nut came loose with the first hit, all of the threads were also removed at the same time .

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Bob makes a very good point.  Do not force the issue.  Stay away from the bigger hammer.  If you don't strip the threads you may just break your wrench, especially if it is one of those cheesy cast ones like A&S sells.  A length of cheater pipe is about as far as I would go and if that still doesn't work, then get out the hack saw.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

And there are two different sized nuts in the world of "modern" airheads - those for R65s (and 45s), and the rest.

Don't get the wrong one.  Always provide your parts guy with the part number.  
I like RealOEM for microfiche.  MaxBMW and some others offer this, as well.  If in England, Motobins or Motorworks (?).  In fact, Motobins might be able to deliver them to the US at a noticeable cost savings.

[size=14]And don't forget the anti-seize paste on your new ones![/size]

Torque them only enough to ensure no leakage.  Don't get carried away with recommended torque figures.

[Dizerens5]

If you have nothing specialized, copper grease seems to work well as anti-seize (good for spark plugs too). But I still loosen the nuts occasionally (like maybe twice a year).

[DanielMc]

No question - if those nuts are tight and you don't know when or if they were removed previously cut them off before you strip the threads with the big spanner and too much force. Give everything a good coat of anti-sieze on reassembly and then check annually.

I've had arguments before about this, but I believe you should not use copper grease on the all-aluminium components in BMW exhausts. Not only is it not designed for high-temperature applications, but the grease burns away and you can be left with copper on aluminium - add salt water and you've got galvanic corrosion turning your expensive threaded spigots to dust. Loads of people reckon this doesn't happen, but I've seen alloy brake calipers eaten away on cars where copper grease was used.

I use the proper high temperature anti-sieze compound recommended by BMW - Optimoly TA. I may be being paranoid, but this stuff is only a few pounds for a tube and as already mentioned, wrecked exhaust threads are not cheap to fix.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

This is what I've been using successfully for a long time, now.  Permatex offers many different formulations.  According to their website, this particular one is a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.



And I don't live near the ocean (salt in the air), and I gave up riding in the winter (salt on roads) a long time ago.

[Julio A.]

The first time I removed the exhaust nuts is by using the dedicated tool, penetrating oil and a mallet. Since then, I used copper grease on the threads. The nuts never got stuck up ever since.

I've had arguments before about this, but I believe you should not use copper grease on the all-aluminium components in BMW exhausts. Not only is it not designed for high-temperature applications, but the grease burns away and you can be left with copper on aluminium - add salt water and you've got galvanic corrosion turning your expensive threaded spigots to dust. Loads of people reckon this doesn't happen, but I've seen alloy brake calipers eaten away on cars where copper grease was used.
.

My tube of copper grease had a label on them:
"Used for high temperature applications"

That explains the weird pitting at the back of my brake pads.
Do you know any alternative for reducing that irritating brake squeal?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have never had squealing on my ATE caliper (I only have one); either before or after it's rebuild in 2006.

Just lucky, I guess.

Google is your friend:
http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&site=&source=hp&q=anti+brake+squeal&aq=3&aqi=g6&aql=&oq=anti+brake&psj=1&fp=2dcb6979649afcb0

Ignore anything you see about having the rotors machined - they are talking about cars.
And feel free to start a new thread.