R65LS Problems Getting Started

[sburger01]

Member,

Please forgive this "newbie" question. I've been two semesters into a motorcycle repair program at the local community college, taking a semester off while tinkering on a friends r65ls.

The bike has been sitting since 2006, the previous owner passed away mid-restoration. So, I really have no information about the bikes previous condition, though it looks complete.

Here is the problem, brand new Gruber battery.  Key in, turn ignition, clutch in, bike in neutral. Kill switch to start, hit starter button. Nothing,  no clicking, nothing.

Your suggestions as where to go next are appreciated!

I'm learning electrics and how to use a multimeter as we go. Between this forum and the Haynes manual, I've started diagnostics.

Here is what I know:

Battery is good. Checked voltage and when key and accessory lights are on.

Both fuses show continuity.  One fuse has voltage reaching other does not. (Is this significant?) Head light and tach light are illuminated..

Pulled and checked continuity for engine kill switch and starter button, both good.

My theory is that it might be related to the neutral and clutch override switches. The neutral light does not illuminate when the bike is in neutral.

I pulled the left handlebar clutch cover assembly and don't see anything resembling the clutch switch.. There is wiring for turn signals, horn and dimmer.. what should I be looking for?

Please hit me with questions and "Have yous?"


Thanks,

Steve

[Vegasrandall]

got a schematic of da wires? I can email one.

[Bob_Roller]

You can jumper the neutral switch at the transmission .

By the left battery cover there is a two wire bundle, there should be a connector in the general area .

Pull the connector apart and insert a bare wire into the upper part of the connector .

With the key in the 'ON' position, the neutral light should come on and stay on whenever the key is on .

You've just by passed a safety interlock that prevents you from starting the bike in gear, make sure you have the clutch lever pulled in when you try to start the bike .

The other clutch switch is located on the handlebar at the clutch lever .

[montmil]

Neutral switch screws into the bottom of the transmission with male-female spade connectors on the two wires. Carefully remove wires and connect the two wires together. That will bypass the neutral switch and all systems will still operate... once your real problem is discovered.

Unsure of the LS ignition switch but it may have a parking light position that if engaged would prohibit the bike from starting.

There's also a switch at the clutch lever. Two wires. Disconnected, the bike won't start. Small spade connectors. Check that switch for a loose wire.

Monte

[suecanada]

 [smiley=lurker.gif] [smiley=lurker.gif]

Just interested as this may be me someday!

[Julio A.]

Have you checked the clutch lever switch or starter relay?
Both these parts already failed me. Same symptoms as what you are experiencing.

[k_enn]

The lack of a neutral light may indicate an issue with the neutral switch.  I don't know if a failure of that bulb (as opposed to a failure of the neutral switch itself) would cause the problem.  Try the suggestion of by-passing the neutral switch.  

However, I would tend to question the assumption that it is the neutral circuitry.  Because the bike should start if either the transmission is in neutral *or* the clutch is pulled in, you would need two failures in the circuitry to prevent the starting.  I usually check things out initially on the theory that there is only one failure, and if I don't find it than I check other possibilities.  

The symptoms (other the the failure of the neutral light to come on) sound like what I was experiencing with a starter relay problem.  

Check the relay itself to see if it closes the contact when energized.  When the contact is closed, check for continuity.  Also, don't forget to check the spade connectors for oxidization.  A bad connector can mess you up pretty easily.  

k_enn

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

The neutral switch at the handlebar is tough to see.  It is best if you look from the bottom.  I believe there is a small screw that holds it in place.  This screw head is toward the instruments.  
Find the wires coming out of it - they should be zip-tied to the handlebar - and follow it to a connector.
Unplug the connector and, again, like Bob Roller said on the lower switch, use a wire to jumper the two connectors to bypass the handlebar switch.