Engine Oil Brands

[Landlubber]

What brand and ttpe of engine oils are you currently using and any bad comments.?


I have to replace my main engine oil again next week and was wondering what is the best current Zbrand and type.

[Mike V]

This subject will always cause different opinions and advice.  I currently use BMW dyno 20w50.  I may switch over to Golden Spectro when my BMW inventory runs out.  It's a bit less expensive.  I've never experienced any oil related problems or failures.  There's lots of good oils out there and I'm not suggesting you use what I use.  Do your research and select the correct viscosity for your area and keep it changed at recommended intervals based on your riding habits.

You may want to go to Snowbum's link to answer any technical questions you might have about additives and ZDDP.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilessay.htm

-Mike V.

[montmil]

Lots of guys [smiley=thumbup.gif] for Castrol and da Snowbum likes Valvoline. I believe BMW-branded oils are formulated by Spectro. They're a good choice.

Avoid synthetics as many Airheads develop oil leaks when running the super slicky stuff. Evidently, the oil seals become unhappy but tend to stay snug with the dino oils.

Frequent oil and filter changes are probably more important than the brand. What's on sale today?

Monte

PS: Any guesses as to how long this oil thread will live? Start a poll?

[Semper Gumby]

You can go with Synthetic blends but not 100% pure synthetic unless you bike is a post 1980 year pike.  It seems that 1980 was the cut off year for seals to work with synthetic oil.  But then I've heard of people with later bikes having trouble.  Perhaps it took a while to get rid of all those pre-1980 seals.

Since I have a March of 1980 bike....

On a cost benefit I'm beginning to think Valvoline Vr1 20W50 in the summer and Valvoline 10W40 motorcycle oil in the winter.  I'm currently using Spectro 20W50 and 10W40 but at $10.00+ and becoming increasingly hard to get at a case price I think I'm about to give up on Spectro.

I currently use the Valvoline Synthetic blend in the drive train and have been for years: 85W140 summer and 80W90 in the winter (dark blue bottle) final drive , drive shaft and tranny.

Read the Snowbum Article: +1.   Wish he would convert % by weight  to ppm.  Kind of an apples and oranges thing.

[Barry]

I'm using Shell X100 super 15W40 which is an SG rated oil that still has some ZDDP in it. I choose 15W40 because my oil never gets hot enough in our climate to need 20W50 and more importantly because it's much thinner than 20W50 when cold. I really should be using 10W40 in the winter. Brisbane sounds hotter to me so maybe you will stick with 20W50.

Engines haven't the faintest idea what weight of oil is in them all they care about is what the viscosity is at the temperature that they are actually running at when hot. I'm a fan of "Bob the oil guys" assertion that as long as you have 10psi oil pressure per 1000rpm then the oil is thick enough. In the absence of an oil pressure gauge I suppose that could roughly translate to the oil light staying off at idle.

As an example my old Merc which does have a gauge is showing 30 psi oil pressure at 1000 rpm so I'm thinking the 15W40 I've got in it is too thick for winter use.

The real issue is all oils are grossly too thick when cold which is why it's best not to use thicker oil than your engine really needs.


 

[Bob_Roller]

Don't use automotive oils, stay with motorcycle specific oil, it contains more anti-wear additives than auto oil does, the anti-wear additives usually zinc and copper compounds are poison to catalytic converters in higher concentrations .

Some members are using diesel oil, Rotella brand oil comes to mind .

[Lucky_Lou]

Castrol classic motor oil for me (what ever grade floats your boat) and as Monte says stay away from synthetics.
Lou

[plc]

Hi All,

I use Penrite oils (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/) in the bike. Not sure if they are available outside Australia, but they claim you need thicker oil due to Australian temps.

They recommend HPR Gas for the R65 and it is 20W-60. Have run it in the bike since I got it two years ago and bike seems to run well with it.

YMMV but it seems to work well for me.

Paul

[scottyintex]

Well............I have a 1980 model and use Mobil 1 V twin 20-50 because I have no problems finding it. I hate to switch oils around..like to use the same one all the time. I like the full synthetic for it tends to get a little hot here in the Summer. My cycle does burn a small amount of oil but doesn’t leak at all....at least not where I can see it. Parked in the garage in the same spot all the time....where I would see a leak.. However, my bike sat unused, park under a tarp,  behind a garage,  for about 20 years. Every thing rubber rotted in the Texas heat and had to be replaced. The engine was torn down seals and gaskets replaced in 2003. It has about 18,000 true miles on it.

[nhmaf]

The oil pumps in these bikes tend to create some very impressive oil pressure - I seem to recall seeing around 100 PSI @ 4500 RPM somewhere.   I run 10W40 dyno in my bike as in my area, we usually only have a handful of days with temps over 100F, but many, many riding days with temps around 32F.
The 20W50 stuff is just too thick and noticeably slows the cranking while starting in my area.

[suecanada]

Hey Mike (nhmaf) maybe I should consider the 10W40 too? Would you name your exact brand, please. I always admire your preferences and knowledge. Call me a copy cat if you will!! I have been using Golden Spectro dyno 20W50.

[Barry]

nhmaf

That's at least two of us that favour thinner oil in cooler climates and in these conditions thinner oil = more than enough pressure and higher flow rates.

It would be interesting to know what the oil pressure is running 10W40

[Motu]

I'm using Castrol Edge Sport 25-50 - this is marketed as an oil for performance pushrod V8's...closer I think to an airhead than oils made for high revving DOHC engines.I had a UOA done and didn't see any high ZDDP,so don't know where the flat tappet anti wear claims come from.I seldom ride at under 10 degrees,maybe 5 C if I get up early on a winter morning,so have no problem with the slightly thicker cold rating.

[nhmaf]

I've been using Golden Spectro 10w40 and Rotella 10w40, though I think that other oils will work fine too.   I also use the same oil in my Kawasaki Concours (wet clutch) and will start using it in the '78 R100/7.

I don't claim to be an oil expert by any means - but the 10w40 stuff really seems to a better weight/viscosity for things up here near the 45th parallel.

[GDeane]

Castrol Actevo X-TRA 4T part synthetic 10W-40 for the motor.  AmsOil Severe Gear synthetic  75-W90 for the gear box and drive shaft.