Trying to put this R65 on the road

[jonfread]

So, I just bought my first BMW.  It's a '79 R65.  It's pretty rough cosmetically, but it ran like a top when I took the test drive.  Since then, and now that I own it, it's been slowly running more and more poorly.  Specifically, it likes to idle up high (about 3k) when I'm sitting at a light (cold or hot) and when I take it out of gear while braking, it likes to die.  I haven't gone through it just yet, but I did do a couple simple things that didn't resolve the situation, like putting in new plugs and setting the points to .018" (the points were set somewhere significantly less than .016" previously).  After just seven miles, the plugs are dark and sooty and it acts the same.

Once I figure out how to order parts and where to get them (advice?) I will tackle the leaky pushrod tube seals and oil filter cover. I figured I'd adjust the valves then, followed by a good carburetor examination. I'm starting to wonder if I might do the valves now to get it running well.

Other than the erratic idle issues, she's got lots of pep and rides smooth through all the gears.  I just fear idling. haha!

[montmil]

Incorrect valve lash can effect idle ops. Disregard older BMW specs and use 0.004" intake and 0.008" exhaust clearances. Do adjust the valves before digging into the carbs, although checking the float bowls for trash wouldn't hurt.

Throttle cables need just a little bit of slack where the cables enter the threaded adjusters on the Bings. Check the cable runs for binding, kinks or hidden damage.

Sooted plugs may be a rich mixture but could also be caused by a clogged air filter. Or too cold a plug heat range. What plugs are you running?

OK, guys. Your ideas next.

Monte

[Semper Gumby]

Hi Jonread -

Did you say that your oil filter cover is leaking?

Stop right now - do not pass go.

If your oil filter cover is leaking oil then the big o-ring (the $3000 dollar o-ring) is not exerting enough pressure on the cover.  You need to read the Snowbum article and have the right number of flat washers (Snowbum calls them 'shims') behind the big o-ring to keep the oil pressure in the oil galleys.  If oil is leaking out the oil filter cover then it is also returning to the sump bypassing all the important expensive bits in your engine.

Please read and solve this problem immediatly.  Its a long and wordy article.  Come back and ask your questions here when you have them.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Oil.htm

[jonfread]

Wow, Thanks Bill.

I'm hoping that I haven't done any damage yet.  I am now putting together a shopping list of parts I need to get all my basic problems solved. Number one concern is leaking oil and oil pressure.  

Filter/o-ring to insure proper oil pressure
pushrod tube seals and head gaskets
carburetor to head rubber tubes (mine are a little cracky)
plug wires and spark plug boots (mine are a little more jankity than I prefer)

I suppose I have a good part of a day to set aside and explore this new machine. I hope parts arrive quickly! Any suggestions for good parts sources?

I'll also take some pics of the bike in the next day or so.  Maybe you'll all see some other problems I need to address that I'm overlooking.

[Bob_Roller]

Jonathan welcome to the 'looney bin' .

There's a BMW parts supplier in Vero Beach, caters to  the older bikes, but has a lot of parts for the R65 .


http://bmwhucky.com/

[Lucky_Lou]

Hi Jon some good advice there... i think you will find that replacing the carb to head rubbers (on your to do list) will go along way to curing the over revving problem but sort the Oil prob first thats the killer if not done.
If you dont know the history of the bike i would also check the needle position re the black plugs should be 3rd or 4th notch from the top.
This is a useful article but as yours (like mine) is a 79 the diaphragm will be retained by a white plastic ring rather than 4 screws and no spring assistance.The retainer just pops off with a flat bladed screwdriver this will be in Haynes or Clymer manuals.
http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/carb_rebuild/index.html
Lou

[jonfread]

Hey thanks everyone.

I'm running NGK BP7ES plugs, I forgot to mention that before.  I've got a list of everything I need minus the pushrod tube seals.  Can anyone give me an accurate part number on these for a '79 R65?  I'm finding what I think is the seal on some schematics, but it is listed as a "grommet," which makes me a little weary.  Again, I am new to these and I haven't quite learned all the common terminology for parts, but I'm a quick learner.

More pictures to come.  I think I can get some before the sun goes down today.

Cheers

[Bob_Roller]

Jon, here's an IPC reference for the part .

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0363&mospid=51897&btnr=11_1707&hg=11&fg=15

It's item #7 .

Part number : 11 11 1 335 090 .

[jonfread]

Thank Bob-

Here's a few more pictures.  I'm bracing myself for all the problems I'm about to be informed of.  

Enjoy!

[Semper Gumby]

Hey Jon,  Now worries on the pics -- that bike has got what we call "patina".  Sort of a badge of honor if you can get it on the road!  While some of us get 'em nice and shinney, there are others (me included) that just ride them, and ride them, (since 1993).

Did you get a look under the oil filter cover yet?  From your picture it doesn't really look like oil is leaking from the cover...(in which case cancel the alert).

NGK BP7ES is the one of the correct plugs for this 1979 bike.  Do you have a torque wrench yet?

[jonfread]

Yeah, its got patina alright.  I figure just get it going for now and I'll clean it up as I go.  I'd like to address the frame before too long though.  The rust doesn't go deep, but it can move fast.  I don't need a "flexible flyer."

I haven't opened the cover yet, but I'm sure it's leaking there.  I wipe the excess oil off when it is parked.  I have noticed a slow, but steady flow from the bottom of the cover while the engine is on and for a moment after shut off.  

Torque wrench, check.
Feeler gauges, check.
Parts on the way, check.
Exhaust nut tool, check.. (well, it's coming with the parts, ha!)

[Yikes]

Jonread, if you are pulling the cylinders to get the pushrod tube seals out, you should also pick up some new rubber 0-rings that fit between the engine block and cylinder base.  These are part #s 11111337567 (need 2) and 11111262141 (need 4).  I think that it is also recommended to use a faint amount of non-hardening sealant at the base of the cylinder as well.

Also, check to see that you will be able to get the big star-shaped exhaust nuts loosened without binding.  If they start to turn and then bind up, you will have to cut them off and replace them with new.  If they stick and you try to muscle them off, you will damage the threads on the heads and will have a lot more (very expensive) work than you will want to do!

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Jon - have you had the airbox apart, yet?  I was wondering if you have checked for mice nests.  You will probably want a fresh air filter, anyway.

I use Hucky's for most maintenance items, but since he doesn't really "do" R65's, he may not have the push rod tube seals, since they are one of the parts that are unique to the short-stroke airhead engine.

For ignition wires and sparkplug caps, I go here: http://www.mikesxs.net/products-27.html#products

Use a soldering iron and remove the soldered-on tips from your original wires (the ones that go into the coils).  Reuse them on your new wires.  Much more better than the crimp-on type.

Drain your transmission oil ASAP and check it's color.  If it is milky, it has water in it.  You will need to replace the rubber boot on the speedometer cable, as that is where water enters.  Some put some grease inside the boot to stop water, others put a wire-tie around the top of the boot, and others use a large piece of heat shrink.

Check the magnet on the drain plug for metal bits.  Small fuzz is normal.  Large pieces are an alert.

Take care with that bolt that holds the ground cable to the transmission.  You don't want to strip those (or any other) fragile aluminum threads in the case with the steel fastener.  That bolt is also the vent for the transmission, and it should have a hole drilled through the center.  Check it for blockage.  This same fastener also holds the speedometer cable in place.

[montmil]

I use Hucky's for most maintenance items, but since he doesn't really "do" R65's, he may not have the push rod tube seals, since they are one of the parts that are unique to the short-stroke airhead engine.

For ignition wires and sparkplug caps, I go here: http://www.mikesxs.net/products-27.html#products

Hans -Hucky- has the push rod tube seal "grommets" for R65s. I just bought some from him. Although he specializes in marks other than the R65, I have found that if you just ask him, he often has what you're looking for.

MikesXS is another good source. prowl his entire website for other BMW useful items, especially electrical terminals and the like.

Monte

[balibeemer]

If you want parts and excellent service, go to www.motobins.co.uk
A brit company but I've used them for 5 years now and nary a complaint.