Transmission Woes...

[Ed Miller]

90 is too hot.  

I added my Sampsonite trunk to the R65 last night, and should now have enough locking luggage room that I can go to the park, lock my riding gear up on the bike, and go running.  I've been getting more and more irritated for the past couple of years from having to drive my car on nice days to go running, and only riding on rainy days when I knew I wouldn't go running.  I didn't care that other people thought I was crazy.  

[Bob_Roller]

Graeme, I just removed a transmission today, and I made a note of the 'unusual' tools you may need to remove yours .

The bolt at the left lower side of the transmission needs an allen wrench cut down to fit in there it's a 6 mm, I usually put a 6 mm deep socket on the allen wrench and place a long 1/4 th inch drive extension for extra leverage, don't be too surprised if the socket breaks I've had one fail so far make sure it's a Craftsman, they'll replace it no questions asked .

The 10 mm 12 point bolts that hold the drive shaft to the output flange of the transmission, also are a pain to get out .

You may be able to get by using a 'cheater bar' on the wrench to get them 'broken for the first time, they usually make a pretty good 'crack' when they let loose, they are tightened to about 25-30 ft/lbs. of torque .

Ed, it got to 101 F. in the garage, it's still 94 F. at 1800 .

Finally fall is here . [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]

[azcycle]

Thanks, Bob! I actually ordered Jeff Trap's driveshaft bolt adapter because I figured I'd run into issues with them.  Good thoughts about the transmission bolt, though.

[Bob_Roller]

I haven't seen the tool you are talking about, but if it doesn't fit on the bolt correctly, you may need to grind down the tool so it fits on the bolt head .

There's minimal clearance between the bolt head and the universal joint .

[azcycle]

Bob... this is the adapter. One side fits the bolt and the other side is for a 3/8" socket.  



BTW... I received my gaskets, seals, and tools!  I should be able to dive in soon and get the transmission removed and dropped off locally for a rebuild.  Then we'll see how bad the clutch looks, and I can finally get to that leaking main seal/oil pump cover!

[Bob_Roller]

That tool is a lot thinner at the 12 point part than the Snap-On tool that I have, I don't think you'll have any problems with it, but if you do, a bit of work on a grinding wheel or hand file will solve the problem .

Do you have a 27 mm socket for the swing arm pivot pin jam nuts ?

I tried something that I don't know if I would recommend or not on loosening and tightening the drive shaft bolts .

I forgot to loosen the bolts prior to removing the rear wheel, the usual method is to tighten the adjuster nut on the rear brake until it stops, then push down hard on the rear brake pedal while loosening or tightening the bolts ,

I already had the swing arm ready to come off of the bike, only thing holding it on was the driveshaft bolts .

So I got a long brass drift and placed it into the yoke of the universal joint so I could get the bolts loose, worked great .

I don't know if it cause any harm to the universal joint or not, but if you forget to loosen the bolts up early on in the process, or if the rear brake won't hold, it's an alternative method .

I definitely wouldn't post this on Boxerworks, as it's finally cooled down here in Phoenix, and I don't want to be on the receiving end of the 'flaming' comments that it surely would generate .

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have noticed that Jeff Trapp's line of tools closely resembles CycleWorks (formerly Ed Korn).

And if you are going to use a torque wrench with that driveshaft screw adapter, you will need to compensate mathematically for the length of the tool.

[Bob_Roller]

The torque value for the bolts is 27 +/- 3 foot pounds, figure at best the adapter adds 10 % to the length of the torque wrench, using the low value will be more than sufficient .

Seeing as how a majority of owners don't even torque the bolts, just tighten them up 'til they won't get any tighter, it's probably not a real issue anyway .

[azcycle]

That tool is a lot thinner at the 12 point part than the Snap-On tool that I have, I don't think you'll have any problems with it, but if you do, a bit of work on a grinding wheel or hand file will solve the problem .

Do you have a 27 mm socket for the swing arm pivot pin jam nuts ?

I tried something that I don't know if I would recommend or not on loosening and tightening the drive shaft bolts .

I forgot to loosen the bolts prior to removing the rear wheel, the usual method is to tighten the adjuster nut on the rear brake until it stops, then push down hard on the rear brake pedal while loosening or tightening the bolts ,

I already had the swing arm ready to come off of the bike, only thing holding it on was the driveshaft bolts .

So I got a long brass drift and placed it into the yoke of the universal joint so I could get the bolts loose, worked great .

I don't know if it cause any harm to the universal joint or not, but if you forget to loosen the bolts up early on in the process, or if the rear brake won't hold, it's an alternative method .

I definitely wouldn't post this on Boxerworks, as it's finally cooled down here in Phoenix, and I don't want to be on the receiving end of the 'flaming' comments that it surely would generate .

I did buy the modified swingarm socket. Good to know about torquing down the brake before loosening the driveshaft bolts... I didn't know that.

[azcycle]

Quick question:  

Do I need to make sure the cylinders are TDC before I dive in and start working? I'm going to have to remove the flywheel to get to the leaking main seal and/or oil pump cover. So If so, how do I rotate the engine?  Obviously, the input splines are shredded so turning the rear wheel doesn't turn the engine over. I know on the old goldwing I have, there is a crankshaft bolt that I can just attach a wrench/socket to and turn the engine over to TDC.

[Bob_Roller]

The position of the pistons in the cylinder make no difference .

You can rotate the engine with the spark plugs removed by inserting a 6 mm allen wrench into the socket head bolt that holds the alternator rotor on .

You've got to go in there anyways, to block the crank shaft before removing the flywheel .

You may want to rotate the engine until a timing mark is visible in the timing hole, just so you get it back on correctly, it will be right on, or one bolt hole off, so there's no guessing about it .

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Rotate the engine like Bob said.  (I love my 3/8" ratchet allen socket drivers!)
I've heard it said that you should only rotate the engine forward.  I don't know if that is true or not, but forward is clockwise as you are looking at the engine from the front.

And don't forget to disconnect the main ground (and any other grounds that there might be on the negative terminal of the battery) BEFORE REMOVING THE FRONT COVER.

I have a short length of 6mm allen wrench that I put in the alternator bolt before putting the cover back on, with which to block the crank.

[azcycle]

Thanks, fellas. Will definitely be disconnecting the battery before I do any work. Purchased a "crank blocker" from Jeff Trapp as well.

[azcycle]

Getting closer! Just finished up another freelance website design that will pay for the remainder of my transmission rebuild and (potential) new clutch!  

I've been trying to sell an old 76 Goldwing basketcase and was recently in-touch with a Goldwing acquaintance who would like to trade the 'wing for some painting services! So I'm giving him the wing and in exchange, he is going to repair the r65's dented gas tank (pull out the dent and fix with tinning compound/lead, etc.) and then repaint the tank, front fender and rear fender, AND hand pinstripe them all to match what my father-in-law had!  

I've been thinking I might as well invest in some stainless brake lines, rebuild the brakes, and clean/rebuild the carbs while tranny is being rebuilt.

Hopefully I can have the girl up and running again by the end of January or so. My wife just bought me a HD Flip video camera with handlebar mount so I can't wait to get back out on the road. So sad to see the r65 just sitting there with a layer of dust on it.