Brake pads noise

[stockman]

So I'm riding along and I notice a new noise,  a rytmical click-click-click... you get the idea.  I try pulling the front brake lever a little and it goes away. I stop and examine the caliper
(removing the plastic cover) check the pins, clips - all the stuff that holds the pad in --its OK. So I reach under neath and I can move the pads back and forth quite a lot .030-.040  or so I'm guessing. That's the noise.
The question is is it just wear in the caliper? The Pins? Pads too small?Caliper piston not holding the pad close enough to the rotor?What else???
Anyone have this problem?

[Bob_Roller]

Unless the pads are being held up  by the pins somehow, the piston should be touching the pads all the time .

Is there the possibility that one of the caliper pistons is not moving ?

[stockman]

You know i could see daylight on both sides of the rotor. When I first got the bike I took the caliper apart and cleaned it but just put it back together. I probably need to rebuild it with some proper parts. It does work much better than it did though. I'm getting ready to replace the front springs with some Progressive springs so while I have it apart I'll do the caliper. Thanks

[montmil]

... I'm getting ready to replace the front springs with some Progressive springs...

Stockman,

Granted, this is only my personal opinion from my personal experience but I agree with a many year veteran R65 driver when he says to be sure the aftermarket progressive front fork springs are installed properly in... "a vertical position in the trash bin."

Of course and as always, YMMV.  [smiley=beer.gif]

Monte

[nhmaf]

I'm much happier with my Progressive aftermarket springs than I was with the saggy stock springs.  Dpending on riding style, rider/cargo weight, I think one man's beer is another man's urine, and vice versa..YMMV

[stockman]

That's what I have saggy front springs. From a stop the front springs rise when you start moving forward. I went through cleaning and inspection of the internals last season when I got the bike and where it is a little better they still sag. Here in Goffstown there is a shop Affordable Beemer Service and he looked at it and said I need new springs. He emailed me the pn didn't try to sell them too me just told me where to but them. So I have no loyalty to "Progressive" springs. We will see after i put them in I guess.
I value all opinions equally and to date have always received excellent information from all respondents. Thanks

[Mr_Smart]

I`m with ya all the way here Stockman...click,click,click....it`s doing my head in.

To hell and connacht with Progressive Springs...I just want silent brakes !!!!.

I`m leaning towards run-out on the discs as the main contributory factor...gulp....rivets...gulp again !!

[dek139]

I had the same ticking on my 86 I mostly noticed it at very low speeds and when moving around my garage.
I found 1 of the front wheel bearings was loose in the outer hub of the rim. It was oblonged so it would click every revolution. I not sure if yours is the same but you might want to take a look..
Good Luck
Dek

[Matt Chapter]

Seems to me that if you can see daylight between the pads and the rotor .. that's bad.  The physics of the hydraulic brake system wouldn't normally cause that, so I'm wondering if your front brakes are working at all?  When you pull the lever, the fluid (since it doesn't compress much) forces the piston to push the brake pad to the rotor.  When you release the lever, the rotor "pushes" the pad and piston away, but in my experience that force is never enough to leave daylight between the pads and rotor.  That "daylight" would mean you have extremely spongy and / or slow to respond front brakes... a non ideal situation if I ever heard it.

Long story short, time to open up the caliper and possibly the master cylinder.

[R65Singh]

I had a similar problem and cured it by using  a product called "Disc Brake Quiet" available at most of automotive stores.  Basically a thick rubbery compound that glues the brake pad to the piston.  
I think a little air gap should be present and the wheel should turn freely without touching the pad.  If pads touch the rotor you can easily hear the grinding noise.  Just my two cents!!

[Barry]

There should be the thinnest air gap between the pads and the disk. Just a few thou. When the brakes are applied the square section seal in the caliper piston distorts slightly as the pads are pushed against the disk. When pressure is released the seal returns to normal retracting the piston slightly.  That's the theory and it works when everything is clean and free to move easily.  When the clipers get gummed up inside then the piston won't retract and you can have the pads dragging on the disk which can lead to brake squeal.

I've seen this small air gap but only after overhauling my calipers.