Looks like a less than perfect job

[Dizerens5]

Last year I took my R65 to the local motorcycle dealer (one more accustomed to scooters and Jap rockets) for a new tire and asked them to check and tune the carbs at the same time. Here's the result. Both carbs shown with throttles full closed!

[montmil]

Guessing the left carb has the diaphragm installed incorrectly which has likely caused the slide to be rotated and kept from closing properly. There's a tab on the rubber diaphragm's outer rim. It is supposed to fit into a locating notch in the carb body.

Several possibilities regarding the right carb: jet needle jammed atop the needle jet; idle screw turned down too far; slide jammed in carb bore...

Must control fists of fury. Release grip on jack handle...

Hope they did a better job on the tire. Have you checked the molded "arrow" on the tire that indicates proper install direction? And hoping you got your money back from the "scooter trash boys" on the failed carb work.

Monte

[Justin B.]

The other one looks a bit odd as well but it could be the angle...

[Dizerens5]

The "tune up" (which in fact came for free with the tire) included fitting a pair of new diaphragms which I provided. Looks like I should have installed them myself but I was a bit scared of the job....not clever!

[Patrick_Krivacka]

nothing to be scared of with carb rebuilds. You know it's easy if I'm saying that!

[azcycle]

Mine is running pretty well but I've never opened them up and the right carb is pretty stained from a leak so it's probably time for me to order rebuilt kits and just "do it."

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Mine is running pretty well but I've never opened them up and the right carb is pretty stained from a leak so it's probably time for me to order rebuilt kits and just "do it."

Just break the top screws loose while they are on the bike.  They can be hard to get out, sometimes.
You will want a perfectly fitting screwdriver, and perhaps some valve grinding compound.

[trolle]

Just break the top screws loose while they are on the bike.They can be hard to get out, sometimes.
You will want a perfectly fitting screwdriver, and perhaps some valve grinding compound

Well, what to do if the screw is damaged beyond use and still stuck?

greetings from a rainy north

[montmil]

Well, what to do if the screw is damaged beyond use and still stuck?

Drill it out. Select a small bit to drill a starter hole in the center of the screw head. The cross-point head design makes it easy. Just to the depth of the cross point.

Switch to a larger bit -one just slightly smaller in diameter than the outside diameter of the screw head. Drill off the screw head while avoiding too much contact with the aluminum carb top.

Once the head is removed, the threaded stud can be turned out by hand,

Had to do this on two of four evil carb top screws. Sounds scary. It's not.

Monte

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

The cross-point head design makes it easy.

My flat-tops come with straight slot screws, and only two per carb.  I think the dome tops have 4 screws.  Not sure.

Oh, and I am replacing my slotted screws with SS socket head (allen) screws next time I have the opportunity to remove them.

[Bob_Roller]

If you can find stainless steel Phillips head countersunk screws in the US size 10-32, they are compatible with the metric threads .

[Justin B.]

I've never had the old trusty hand impact fail to remove these screws.  About the only thing I have left to remind me of the old Honda days...