Rich, it can be done, you need to remove the rear engine mount stud, support the back of the engine with a bottle jack and a piece of wood against the engine, remove the large diameter aluminum spacer, then you have just enough access to the switch to get it removed  .
If you can remember it, you need to freeze the aluminum spacer to shrink it a bit for 'easier' re-installation .
I know Fry's grocery store about a mile from you usually has dry ice, don't know what the minimum amount you have to purchase, you could always make a 'dry ice bomb' with what's left over, might be acceptable, seeing how this coming week end is the July Fourth holiday !!!!!
Here's an explanation for a 'dry ice bomb' if you've never heard of one .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_ice_bombAlso bevel the outer edge of the spacer to help get it started .
I was told when I purchased my last switch, to only hand tighten it, apply an oil resistant sealant to the threads before hand, it may help prevent the switch from leaking .
Three years later, mine is leaking again so much for that bit of info, my next switch will be from Motobins, they have a 'pattern part', you wouldn't think it would be much worse that OEM and it costs significantly less .
