Clutch questions...

[azcycle]

Good thoughts, fellas. But it only frustrates me further.

I thought the exact same thing about the cable stretch.  A few weeks ago, digging through a box, I found a brand spanking new clutch cable (I found the receipt for it, too) so I decided to install it today to see if it made any difference.  It didn't.

I managed to record a short video (this is with the new clutch cable) and you can hear the transmission engage in the video.  The video starts with me rolling the bike in neutral.  Then, I drop it into first (struggle with it a bit  )  You can hear the transmission "thunk" quietly both when the bike rolls forward and back... remember this is with the clutch pulled all the way in.  I then take it back to neutral and roll it.

Now, while riding, it seems to shift just fine and if I'm stopped with it in 1st and rev the engine, I feel no engagement at all. So maybe it's okay?

So take a look at the video and tell me what you think. I added some annotations to so you know when it's in neutral and when it's in first.

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICiJqCZC71w

[azcycle]

UPDATE

It's been about 1000 miles or so since the transmission gear oil change, so I thought I'd drain it again and see what I found.  The plug had absolutely no evidence of metal or that strange orange mystery stuff that was there the first time.  So alright!

Since the change, I HAVE noticed that downshifting from 4th to 3rd has become difficult at times. I don't seem to remember it being that way before the change.  However, after an unsuccessful downshift from 4th to 3rd, I will let the RPMs drop just a bit, and it will click right into 3rd. With no evidence of gears filing each other down, I'll just choose my shifts with a bit more caution.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

This is NOT a Japanese motorcycle transmission with a multi-plate wet clutch!  

[azcycle]

What?

[nhmaf]

These gearboxes and clutch mechanism do not have the "slip" that the wet clutches (bathed in engine oil) do and the cltuch is a single big heavy spinning disk instead of multiple smaller discs as commonly found on the Japanese bike engines.  All this means is that one has to be slower and more deliberate with shifting these bikes than with a typical Japanese bike.  And, it is more critical to match the rotational speeds (engine/transmission/driveshaft) to get smooth shifting than it is on a similar vintage Japanese bike.   Some people who have prior experience with the wet clutch bikes but "0" experience with the dry clutch BMWs or Moto Guzzis have to adjust to the learning curve - which may or may not be applicable in your particular case.   Think of it like shifting a modern, all-synchromesh 5 speed in a modern sports car versus a heavy duty, 3 ton truck transmission and clutch.

[Bob_Roller]

Think 'farm implement' . [smiley=ROTFLMAO.gif]

[azcycle]

Definitely applicable in my case.  Going from a Taiwanese CVT scooter to the r65... a bit of difference.  Before that, my shifting experience was limited to a 1978 Yamaha GT80 when I was 14 years old.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Have you examined the shifter linkage for wear?

Replacements are available from BMW.

[azcycle]

It seems my bike already has a replacement shifter linkage... looks exactly like the BMW Boxer Supplies model. There is a tiny bit of side to side slop but the up/down shifting movement is nice and tight.  

If that is what you mean by "wear."

[Ed Miller]

I don't know if this will help you, but any time my R65 doesn't want to go into first gear with the clutch pulled in, I keep a gentle downward pressure on the shift lever and slowly let out on the clutch.  I don't have to let it out very far before it snicks right down into first, whereupon I either let the clutch back out and go, or pull it back in if I still have to sit for a bit.

A similar trick works for my car, but emphatically, very emphatically not for my Triumph.  What an awful noise.

[Barry]

I keep a gentle downward pressure on the shift lever and slowly let out on the clutch.I don't have to let it out very far before it snicks right down into first

This is a good tip  - your effectively recreating the drag produced by a multi-plate wet clutch so that the gears rotate slowly until the dogs line up for engagement.