Clutch questions...

[Mike V]

Graeme,
Great news.  I would change it again in 1000 or 1200 miles paying close attention to any changes in shifting, noise at idle with the clutch disengaged and keeping a very close eye on that magnetic drain plug.

[azcycle]

Yes, I'm pretty happy. The clatter that comes/goes with the clutch engagement is still there... no better, no worse. We'll see...

By the way...

Anyone else notice a faint whine in 3rd/4th gear that changes with throttle response?  I'm hearing a slight high-pitched whine that I assume is the final drive... faint, and barely noticeable over the  loud, straight pipes on the bike now.

I don't notice it in 1st or 2nd gears but at 'cruising' speed in 3rd/4th I do notice it, and it stops when I pull in the clutch and rev, so it's definitely a transmission/final drive sound. Hate to think about it, but it sounds a bit like the whine the differential of the Mustang made when it was on it's way out... Not NEARLY as bad, but definitely there. I noticed this BEFORE I changed all the fluids.

[azcycle]

A small update.  Had a tiny leak from the transmission fill hex-bolt and snugged it up nicely.  Then decided to futz around with the clutch cable adjustment a bit.  I had to turn the handlebar adjustment almost all the way out, but I think I've got it dialed in for now. I want to to go back and do it the correct way (using the owner's manual instructions) but at least I got it so that:

1)  there is NO "gear" feel when I put it in first and roll it back and forth with the clutch engaged like there was before.
2) Downshifting from second to first resulted in NO "whir/whine" engagement sound even with the clutch pulled in (which it was doing before).
3) the clutch "clatter" I mentioned in my first post is now 95% gone. I can still hear it a bit, but the slapping timing chain drowns most of it out now.  

[montmil]

Graeme, the proper clutch cable adjustments on the R65 begins at the clutch arm on the aft end of the gear box, not at the handlebar adjustment. Check your manual for the correct sequence required and you'll keep your clutch much happier.

Monte

[Semper Gumby]

Graeme,

4th gear has a faint warbling whine.  It is normal unless it becomes reallly LOUD.  

[azcycle]

Semper: good to know.

Monte: Yeah, I've read the proper clutch adjustment sequence... just need to do it.  I'm still not clear on the sequence, though.  The owner's manual starts by saying to adjust the handlebar lock nut and knurled screw and THEN going to the gearbox housing afterwards.

Is the handlebar adjustment ONLY for adjusting the lever travel?  If so, I can probably turn the nut all the way IN and then start the measuring of "C" (C = 201 + 2mm)... and I assume "201" is mm?

If the clutch isn't engaging/disengaging where it should (like it was) I need to make adjustments at the gearbox... correct?

[montmil]

Graeme,  

Click into the R65 Technical FAQ/Procedures and then go to the R65 Manual link. On page 29 of the Owner's Manual, you'll find the clutch cable adjustment procedure. In bold face type, it states:
Note Do not adjust clutch lever free travel with knurled nut and screw on the handlebar.

Follow these instructions and you'll be good to go.

Monte

[azcycle]

Yep I downloaded the manual, read the instructions and am going to do the procedure tonight.  Measured it this morning and my "C" equals 203.5mm

[Semper Gumby]

The best Clutch adjustment procedure I have found was in the R65 BMW Owners Manual.  That hand sized blue flip book -- Works like a charm and completely baclwards from what you would expect to be doing.

Since it is backwards from what you would expect, that would make it required reading for all airhead drivers...

(.02)

[azcycle]

Well.  I'm thoroughly confused because I can't get it adjusted correctly.  I've followed the directions in the owners manual exactly, everything is adjusted, but the tranny is STILL engaged about 10% no matter what I do.  

I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, but I don't understand what.  

Using the handlebar adjusters I got the length "C in the manual" set to 120mm exactly.  I then used the adjuster on the clutch housing to adjust lever free play.

Transmission is still engaged. I can tighten the clutch housing adjuster ALL THE WAY IN and it seems to get a bit better, but it's still engaging.

This is the way the bike was when I got it, and I'm wondering if there is something wrong with it? The way I got it 100% disengaged last time was to futz with the handlebar nuts, but now I know that's a no-no.

Ideas? Thughts?

[Bob_Roller]

I haven't used the 'official' method, on adjusting the clutch .

I may be told I'm wrong, wouldn't be the first time !!!

Here's what I do, first adjust the adjuster at the handlebar to relieve any tension on the outer sheath or conduit, I believe you adjust it in to accomplish this, but which ever way gets this done .

I can't quite remember this sequence, it's either disengage the cable from the clutch arm, or if the cable is free from the clutch arm continue on to the next step.
 
Adjust the adjuster at the transmission, to get about 1/4th inch free play on the clutch arm where the cable rests .

Reinstall the cable on the clutch arm if you removed it, then adjust the adjuster on the handlebar to get the 2mm or so of free play at the clutch lever .

Don't know if it will work for you, but that's pretty much the way I did the adjustment, and I got 80,000 miles on the original clutch, with probably 5-6,000 miles still left on the clutch disc .

Hope it helps you, and doesn't cause any more confusion .

What does the threaded adjuster at the transmission look like ?

Does it look like a bolt with a very thin head to it ?

I'm just wondering, if the original adjuster was lost, and a common bolt of a shorter length has been used instead .

[Barry]

I got the length "C in the manual" set to 120mm exactly.

I guess you mean 201mm ?


Another method is to get an assistant to pull the clutch lever in half way at the handlebars then check that the operating arm is parallel with the gearbox.

This was the method of adjustment described in the early owners manual. The later manual introduced the 201mm method but I've carefully checked both ways and they amount to the same thing as near as I can tell. In fact the early method is an insight into what the 201mm measurement is aiming to achieve. My guess is that the method was changed because it's quite difficult to accurately measure the half pull vs arm is parallel thing and easier to measure the 201mm

To be honest the clutch should be pretty much disengaged by half travel never mind  full travel so if you have it correctly adjusted and it is still not disengaged it sounds like there must be something wrong internally with your clutch plate or spring.

Just a thought you don't have one of these "easy clutch" pulley systems fitted that halve the effort at the handlebar but also half the travel of the operating arm ?

[azcycle]

Barry, as far as I know, it is stock. Yes, I meant 201.

Original thin-headed adjuster nut, too.

I'll try again. I'm hoping something isn't wrong internally.  

[montmil]

The Clymer manual states that if you cannot achieve the "correct" clutch cable adjustments, then the clutch cable is likely stretched beyond spec and needs to be replaced.

Your new scoot may have had a hard life before you started buffing it with a mink glove.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

I wonder, if you have the correct clutch cable for the R65, there are numerous lengths available from BMW,  the cable end fittings are all the same so they will fit, but not necessarily work in all applications .