How good are your brakes?

[azcycle]

I'm researching brakes a bit for mine (adding them to the list of things to do!)  I've got rubber lines on the front and they're starting to crack a bit and the front feels spongy. The local bmw dealership told me the fluid was dark and needed changing so I'm probably going to do it all at once.

Also... rear drum:  It's obviously not a great brake, but what is "normal" on these?  I literally can STOMP on the rear brake and it will just barely bring me to a stop, and far from fast. No where NEAR locking up.  Is this normal... do I need to adjust it... new pads.... both?

[Barry]

I still have the original 31 year old rubber brake lines fitted which by the way are rubber covered nylon or something similar in fact I suspect they are no different internally than the much vaunted after market braided lines. As for their condition try this for an experiment - measure the diameter with a digital caliper and then squeeze as hard as you can on the brake lever. The result was no measurable expansion not even half a thou (.0005") so I won't be changing them anytime soon.

Our brakes are never going to compare with modern bikes. Mine did improve recently when I stripped and cleaned the caliper. The front wheel now spins freely with zero drag from the pads.  Previously they were dragging a little i.e. not retracting enough. A sure sign that the pistons were sticking and absorbing some of the braking effort.

Your rear brake sounds worse than it should be. Although no one wants a rear brake that's too powerful it should lock if you really stamp on it at least at low speeds. Your brake shoes may be oil contaminated and also for max. mechanical advantage the brake arm should be at 90 deg to the operating rod with the brake applied.

[larstorders]

I fitted new rotors (grimeca) and bmw original pads to my R65 when the originals had done 43k. (SS brake lines in situ). Pleasantly predictable and progressive braking resulted, wet or dry. Of course it's not up to modern standards, regarding two finger stops.
However, the way I squeeze the brake lever has a big effect:
Making best use of the leverage effect. Squeezing the brake lever with the fingers at the outermost end of the lever really improves my stopping power.
Using all four fingers on the lever, this allows all the muscles in my hand to squeeze with their maximum power, which is a great deal more than can be achieved when just using two or three fingers.
Took a bit of practice to regain acceptable throttle and bar control, but this is how I used to brake when I was a kid. (and on previous airheads in years gone by).
At the moment my choice of 'squeeze technique' varies according to how fast I want to slow and how much control I need. Squeeling the front tyre is not so difficult.

[Barry]

However, the way I squeeze the brake lever has a big effect:
Making best use of the leverage effect. Squeezing the brake lever with the fingers at the outermost end of the lever really improves my stopping power.

I very much agree with that after making a conscious effort to use the full length of the lever.

[azcycle]

Your rear brake sounds worse than it should be. Although no one wants a rear brake that's too powerful it should lock if you really stamp on it at least at low speeds. Your brake shoes may be oil contaminated and also for max. mechanical advantage the brake arm should be at 90 deg to the operating rod with the brake applied.

REALLY stupid question, but do I have to drain the final drive oil before I remove the rear tire to check the brake linings and lube the gears? The owners manual doesn't say so, but didnt' know if it was one of those "obvious no need to mention" kinda things that I don't know about.

[Bob_Roller]

No, just remove the rear axle .

If the rear wheel is difficult to get out of the rear fender area, deflate the tire it will help .

You may need to adjust the rear brake, if brake shoes are hanging up on the drum .

Also, place a piece of plywood or something similar on the garage floor, and then extend the center stand onto it, it will give you extra clearance if you need it .

[Barry]

I've never managed to get the rear wheel out without removing the rear mudguard especially as I have the large BMW mudflap fitted. It's easy enough one electrical plug and 4 bolts. I know there are other methods - some park the bike over a drop or remove the front wheel and tip the bike forward after securing the stand, basically anything that raises the rear enough to allow the wheel to drop out.

[azcycle]

Thanks, fellas.

Well that's another obstacle I have to overcome... my bike doesn't HAVE a center stand. At all.  But I'd like to be able to do some of the necessary things (check the back brakes, replace leaking fork seal) before I get a center stand.  

So I'm going to have to be creative with how get it up in the air (but nice and secure) supported on the frame somehow. Hopefully I can get it high enough I dont have to remove the mudgard, which would mean I have to drop the non-stock, custom sidebag mounts, too. Maybe I'll have to drop the exhaust so I can support it on the frame on either side of the engine.

[montmil]

No centerstand? Until -and if- you do locate a stand, consider the economical small MC lifts available at Harbor Freight. I wouldn't trust one too far but for lifting the bike to a vertical position to aid in wheel removal, they may be helpful for you.

Monte

[azcycle]

Yep... see profile pic.  Not sure where it ever disappeared to, but I never found it. I DID find a center stand out at my FIL's property, had the broken eyelet welded/repaired, purchased mounting hardware, and went to put it on the bike last week...

won't fit. what?  

Because the center stand is for the old r69s frame my father in law had.  But maybe I can sell the repaired r69s center stand to finance the r65 stand.

[Bob_Roller]

Well, without a center stand, getting the wheel removed would be interesting to say the least !!!

[nhmaf]

My brakes are pretty good, by 1982 BMW standards - definitely better with stainless steel brake lines for the dual front disks, but I am hoping for further improvement soon as I fit on the brand new EBC organic brake pads and new rear shoes soon.

[darrylri]

The Horror Fright lifts are fine for this, but you'll have to improvise with some wood in order to lift the bike using the frame rails instead of the headers.  They are a great tool for washing your bike as well, gets it up so you don't have to bend down so much, and you can roll it around (carefully).

The rear brakes on my Free Bike did nothing when I got it.  That's because the PO had been very enthusiastic with the grease on the drive splines, it was caked everywhere inside the drum.  I bought a new set of EBC shoes and also ran some crocus cloth around the drum surface, after cleaning out all the grease with brake cleaner.  This helped a lot.  

Others have told you to get the arm at 90 degrees when the brakes are applied, which gives the best leverage.  You should be able to lock the rear brakes with a vigorous application.

[azcycle]

I was going to remove the rear wheel but my newbie valve clearance debacle (see other thread) took up most of my night. Besides, there is NO way I'm going to get that rear wheel off until I get a center stand.

I did look at the rear drum a bit, though.  The brake arm is not even close to being 90 degrees... even disengaged it's pointing too much toward teh front of the bike.  Engaging the brake obviously makes it even moreso.

What's the best way to get it to 90 degrees?  I'm thinking I'll have to remove the adjuster nut completely, remove the arm itself and reposition it slightly back of 90 degrees so when it's engaged it is 90.  Then tinker with the adjuster to get it into the best shape I can.

I don't think I've got any leaking seals, so either there was too much spline lube or the pads are just old/bad.  I have yet to look through the pad sight-hole to see how much pad is left.

[Bob_Roller]

There should be a small center punch like mark on the brake cam shaft, that mates up to the gap on the brake arm where it goes over the brake shaft .

Check to see how close it is to this .