How good are your brakes?

[ukzknos]

My R65 is the twin front disc model (as is common for these bikes sold into our damp country)!

The front brake in dry weather is adequate, not fantastic, but in wet conditions it is seriously rubbish and I find myself too reliant on the rear brake.

Overall I would not give my R65 more than 5/10 for stopping power.

I would be interested in how good or bad you rate yours?

Steve

[nhmaf]

If you don't already have them, upgrading the front brake lines to braided stainless steel will definitely give you more stopping power for the same amount of finger squeezing.   If you already have stainless steel lines, perhaps some new pads are in order?

My bike's stopping improved alot with SS lines, though it still doesn't have the stopping power of my much newer (and much heavier) Kawasaki.  But, I am thinking some new pads onthe front (planning to install in a week or two) will further improve its ability.  Ultimately though, the brake design isn't as good as the current crop of multi piston calipers, though for their time they were pretty good.

[Bob_Roller]

I would not ride my bike, if a significant chance of rain was in the forecast .

Up until I replaced the front rotors and brake pads from OEM, to EBC, it made all of the difference in the world .

I had a good 'acid test' in August of '08, I have an 11 mile ride from work to home, it started raining very heavily about 30 minutes before leaving work, I rode home in several inches standing water all the way, plus a couple of flooded intersections, and still had adequate braking .

My suggestion would be first replace the OEM brake pads, I've got EBC FA18's installed .

If you have ATE calipers, you need to 'modify' the metal backing plate of the pads, to fit your bike, took me about 45 minutes to remove the required material .

[Barry]

The brakes were not exceptional in their days so will seem poor by modern standards. My single disc improved some with new EBC pads and I find them adequate for one up use in the dry. Two up requires more planning ahead.  I go slower in the wet but agree wet performance is not so good and I think the only way to improve them would be cast iron rotors although sintered pads may be better than others in the wet.

Ultimate stopping power is hard to assess from just the lever feel. BMW deliberately set the master cylinder /caliper ratio so that you had to squeeze really hard for full braking performance which is why the lever is so firm by modern standards. A smaller master cylinder piston might help if you would prefer something closer to 2 finger braking.

[DanielMc]

I found out that the previous owner of my LS fitted a 14mm master cylinder (replacing the original 15mm one). Now that the new EBC pads have bedded in the front brake (twin disk and Brembo P8 calipers) is good - powerful with plenty of feel.

[Bob_Roller]

I agree about replacing the OEM rubber lines with aftermarket flex stainless lines, that made a noticeable difference in itself .

I have the EBC steel semi floating rotors .

But I have to agree, that compared to the oilhead I have, the brakes are quite dated on the R65, even with the upgrades .

[Lucky_Lou]

Steve... ive no problems at all with my 79 twin disc i had an MOT a couple of weeks back, chatting to the guy testing the bike i asked how they compared to other bikes he replied ..these are as good as they get, praise indeed from someone testing bikes all day.
When i rebuilt the bike i fitted stainless lines and new pads looks like it payed off.I would check the master cylinder piston if its 14mm its the single disc, if you ring Motorworks and give them your frame number they will tell you what the brake spec was when built.Or put it in the real oem site
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=6346898&part=&kind=M&series=K56&body=ohne&arch=0
Lou

[ukzknos]

Lou

What make of pads did you put back in?

All

Does anyone know what the difference is between the EBC part No.s, i.e. FA18, FA57, FA77, etc.

[Bob_Roller]

Th EBC FA18 is a graphite pad material .

[Lucky_Lou]

Lou

What make of pads did you put back in?

All

Does anyone know what the difference is between the EBC part No.s, i.e. FA18, FA57, FA77, etc.

To be honest i cannot remember i just gave Motorworks a list of all the bits i wanted so im assuming they gave me a standard stock item ..there are ATE brakes though.
Lou
Theres only one on the website for mine Part No BRA 01357

[montmil]

Folks, I just have to chuckle. During my college days, I rode a 1953 Triumph. Talk about "planning ahead" for your stops. [smiley=furious3.gif] Forget anything resembling a panic stop...

Both my R65s offer excellent braking for the vintage. As a matter of course, I try not to push the vintage BMWs too hard. Besides, I grew up on automotive drum brakes, too. I know fear.

Monte

[ambrose78]

Hey Steve,

My brakes were truly dreadful when I first got it - to the point where I could pull the lever all the way to the bar.

After replacing the old spongy line with a braided line and some more aggressive pads - (got no idea what the pads are though) the difference was amazing. Now when I give it a decent pull the bike pulls up in a predictable manner.

I still however use a smidge of back brake anyway just for habit.

Pete

[bruce_launceston]

I would say my brakes are excellent, plenty of feel and enough stopping power to test a 100-90/18 Bridgestone to the limit.
I thought they were very good even with the old rubber hoses and wavy front disk rotors.

[nhmaf]

I'd suggest that if you are using the OEM BMW stainless steel rotors that you do NOT go with the sintered metal pads - those are best used on cast iron rotors

[Lucky_Lou]

I'd suggest that if you are using the OEM BMW stainless steel rotors that you do NOT go with the sintered metal pads - those are best used on cast iron rotors

The pads i got had Platinum/ Ferodo  in them ? it says for stainless and cast iron they werent expensive though.
Lou