Lubing Spline

[Bob_Roller]

There seems to be a lot of metal missing, as the bearing that came apart, has an inner and outer race you only have the ball bearings .

If you haven't drained the transmission oil, you need to, as the missing metal may be on the magnetic drain plug .    

[fermin]

Thanks, I am guessing some of the missing material may still be inside the piston recess. I'll drain the tranny oil to verify, however, I drained and replaced the oil a couple of weeks ago and there was only sludge like material on the drain bolt.

[nhmaf]

From the corroded appearance of the piston, I would replace it.  No sense in putting shiny smooth new bearing in to roll against a rough /pitted surface.   I would put a  bit of wheel bearing grease on the new bearing when reassemlbing to help keep things lubricated and rust-free until some oil migrates back there.  You want to use the 'thin/smooth' kind of grease, not the super sticky or fibrous kind.  Or else just soak the new bearing in gear oil instead.   You might be lucky and not have any bit of rusty metal inside the transmission, but I'd definitely re-drain and possibly peek around inside with an inspection light.

[fermin]

Will do. Thanks.  At the rate I am going the bike might end up looking like Mike V's....

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

fermin,  if you have not had the transmission removed from this bike since you bought it, you really should consider this.  Especially in light of the condition the throwout bearing was in.

This would also allow you the opportunity to address the u-joint boot, if it shows any decay.

[Crossrodes]

One of the reasons I was taking the drive line apart on my R65 was to replace the coil spring and inspect the couplers.  I wanted to do this as last summer the bike was sort of pulsating in the drive line when under heavy throttle when accelerating.

I now have the swing arm off and am looking at how to get at the spring to replace it.  But I am confused (nothing new here).  When I look at my Clymer manual on page 546,  figure 45 illustrates a nut holding a rear coupling in place on the drive shaft....no spring in this illustration.  However from the RealOEM parts diagram of the drive shaft a spring is shown in the assembly.  Is the spring part of the drive-shaft assembly contained in the swing arm assembly or is it external to the drive-shaft and contained in the transmission output?
Also the nut that is shown in the Clymer manual at the end of the drive-shaft does not exist on mine.  There seems to be a ring of some kind with a half moon cut-out in the outer edge.  I don't believe it is a snap ring.... If it is I've never seen one like it.  Assuming that the spring is contained within the drive shaft assembly can anyone tell me how to get this apart...remember this is a 79, twin shock R65.  Later models are probably different.

The Clymer manual also indicates that I will need a hydraulic press to get the drive-shaft apart.  Is this true and is there some kind of thing I could rig up in place of a hydraulic press?  This could be a show stopper for me.  Anyone???

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

A lot of guys here have had their driveshafts out lately (not me), so you should get an answer pretty quickly.  Or search.

I am pretty sure the R65 set-up differs from the Type-247's, and I don't have the large Clymer's book, but from what I've seen, there is not much Type-248 (R45/65) material in there.

[nhmaf]

The cush drive mechanism was first implemented in the 248 bikes (R45/R65) I believe, and didn't make it into the larger bikes until the 80s (maybe 1980 ?) and often times the Clymer manual doesn't include all the variations.   You DO need a pretty strong spring compressor tool to take the drive shaft and coil spring apart - somewhere I had some pics but cannot find them at the moment - someone else will probably have some shortly.  The spring/cush mechanism is in the drive shaft inside the  swingarm tube just a bit ahead of where it fits into the mating spline in the final drive assembly.   One has to remove a spring clip and something else (my memory is fuzzy tonight) to get the end apart.  


[EDIT - OK, I  have found some relevant info and pictures in my copy of the HAynes manual].   PM me with your email address if you'd like me to email you my scanned PDF file of the pages - there's only 3 pages of stuff, but it is better than nothing and has some decent pics]

[fermin]

Tranny moved back no problem and was able to lube spline.  Also after prying the piston surface the bearing race came out and I have a usable piston.  Now the only issue is the rod which appears somewhat corroded on its rear side.  I can get it out by removing the rear wheel  or removing the tranny.  The driveshaft boot is OK and the U joint appears oiled.  Do I need a special tool to remove these bolts?.  I've seen a plate like adapter to a torque wrench or will a regular wrench do?. At this time I think its about the same effort to remove the rear wheel or the tranny

[Bob_Roller]

The clutch rod, won't clear the swing arm, so it's your call, either the swing-arm comes off, or you remove the transmission .

A 12 point 10mm boxend wrench can do the job, but if it's the first time the bolts have been removed since their installation at the factory, they usually are a bit difficult to get broke free .

[fermin]

I had to reinstall the swing arm bolts and rear brake in oder to apply force to the driveshaft bolts, but even then theres play in the driveshaft and I am afraid to apply full force on the Universal screw.  When I try to unscrew one of the bolts the Universal joint wants to move up.  Is this play normal?  

[nhmaf]

To undo the 12-point bolts on the Universal joint, I leave the bike in gear AND step on the rear brake pedal hard, AND then try to give the bolts a sharp. quick pull to get them free using the thin 12-pt ring wrench in the toolkit.   You may also try giving the wrench a wrap with a hammer to get it started.

To tighten them, you can use the same small wrench and basically tighten those bolts about as much as you physically can with it without fear of snapping them off - unless you are allergic to krpytonite..

If you've got the transmission disconnected from the engine, well, it is going to be a bit harder to hold the u-joint from turning without some help.

[Mike V]

fermin,
Fun job isn't it? For safety sake make sure to stuff the boot or swingarm housing with a clean shop rag. If you loose a bolt or socket in there you will have a new challenge on your hands. Get the flange bolts snugged up, and swingarm pins reattached, after you reattach the foot brake lever you can apply the brake hold things in place while you toque the 12 sided bolts. Around 22 ft-lbs if my memory serves me correctly.  Make sure your flex boot is in good condition, now is the time to replace if any question. Looks like you're getting water in your throwout arm.  Is the piston boot in good shape? If questionable, replace.

[fermin]

It was fun until the temperature started rising here in Miami.  Yes I had to reattach the tranny, rear brake and swing bolts. Then step on the rear brake while trying to turn the little shaft screws, one hand for the bike one for the wrench and a foot for the brake.  I was afraid to  use my full strength before concurring I wasnt doing anything wrong.  Like Bob wrote, they are a bit difficult to break free.  Will try tomorrow
Thanks for all the help

[Mike V]

Wives, sons, daughters, siblings, etc. make perfect helpers for this procedure. My wife at 135 pounds was perfect for standing on the brake pedal. The special extension tool is very helpful for this procedure. Is there a nearby airhead or R65 owner that may have one to lend you? This area of repair is a test in patience and manual dexterity. Don't forget to clean threads, new short bolts if possible, no washers and blue locktite. Good luck. Hang in there.

http://s428.photobucket.com/albums/qq8/gruntyman66/81%20R650%20Restoration/Final%20Assembly/?action=view&current=05-01-10Finalassembly025.jpg