Rust converter

[marcmax]

I live in a very damp area of coastal Georgia surrounded by salt marshes. As a result things tend to corrode fairly quickly. All of the bolt heads on my R65 are rusted and it drives me nuts. I had contemplated replacing them with stainless bolts but chose not to because of the galvanic reaction between the stainless and the aluminum. I found this small bottle of Rust-Oleum Rust Converter at the local AutoZone and thought I would give it a try. I used a commercial version of this years ago while living in Alaska to control rust on equipment stored outdoors. A cotton swab dabbed on the bolt heads and within 20 minutes the rust is chemically converted into a flat black stable iron tannate and sealed with an organic polymer. Now instead of seeing little rust spots everywhere I look I see flat black bolt heads. At the rate I use it an 8 oz. bottle will outlast me.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I wonder if that would clean the rust in the pits of my frame in the battery vent area.

I have it all taped off, waiting for warmer weather to apply the self-etching primer I have.  But first, I wanted to neutralize the rust in the frame that I can't reach mechanically.  I was getting desperate enough to try naval jelly.

I might consider this stuff.

[caci]

I wonder if that would clean the rust in the pits of my frame in the battery vent area.

I have it all taped off, waiting for warmer weather to apply the self-etching primer I have.  But first, I wanted to neutralize the rust in the frame that I can't reach mechanically.  I was getting desperate enough to try naval jelly.

I might consider this stuff.

Rob,

You might want to consider POR-15.  They sell a pre-finish, Metal Ready, that neutralizes/etches.  

I have bought that and  the "six-pack" of 4 oz. cans of Rust Preventative Paint.

If you have HVLP gun, it is very easy to spray and the mini-cans are nice, because it doesn't "store" well, once opened.
If you don't have a sprayer, you can get a Preval spray kit for around $10.00, which will also apply the POR-15 pretty well.

It's a semi-gloss.  The only drawback that I'm aware of is that it has no built-in UV protection.

They now seem to have a Glossy Black "Blackcote".  This IS UV resistant and would probably be the ticket.

Depending where you need it, that may not be an issue, or you can just spray over it with your favorite enamel or laquer.

I have a '91 GMC Syclone and have used this stuff to spruce-up the rear end,  frame & under-the-hood.

[marcmax]

Rob,

The nice thing about this stuff is that you don't need to clean the rust. As a matter of fact they tell you not to try and remove it. It uses the existing rust and chemically changes it into an inert substance. Then you can paint right over it.

[bruce_launceston]

I have used similar products that convert rust to a stable black finish ready for overpainting.

I thought stainless steel was inert and unlikely to cause a galvanic reaction?

[marcmax]

The galvanic reaction is small if the aluminum is coated (not the case with my R65) and if there is no electrolyte present. Being surrounded by salt marshes there is a high degree of salinity in the air where I live. The fact that the aluminum is the metal sacrificed when there is a reaction and the area affected is a threaded hole I didn't want to take a chance on loosing any threads.

[montmil]

For many resto and rust 'conversion' products, check out the Eastwood Company. They ain't cheap on their pricing but many of their offerings are available elsewhere at lower costs.

http://www.eastwood.com/

Galvanic action was a concern on the aluminum cowling of an aircraft I owned. Secured to the airframe with stainless fasteners, I was always cleaning off the white, powdery corrosion created by the galvanic action between the two dissimilar metals.

Monte