My R65LS is starting to look like a motorcycle.

[Red_Hen]

Yes it is!

Yesterday got the rear brake switch re-installed. Put new shoes on front & rear wheels, handlebars, controls & new red Spiegler brake lines & floating rotor conversion installed!

Electrical harness is looking good at the moment! Header installed - mine came with black 2 into 1 Lufmeister exhaust. The ash tray slot in the black dash has been replaced with a sharp looking voltmeter - we made two aluminum plates, painted them black and riveted the plates over the ash tray hole. Finally got the boot & clamp installed over the clutch throwout arm.
Will post pics soon.
Have some questions:

• My ignition key works - barely - if I put the key in almost all the way but only turns once - like my K75 the ignition lock moves in a couple positions.  The R65 ignition lock - on the dash - just moves from off to on - does this sound right?  If I need to buy a used lock, will any airhead ignition lock set work or does it have to be for an R65LS?
• We put the axle through the rear wheel but it doesn't want to go all the way through - the wobble is on the port side of the wheel, opposite where the final drive connects.  Looked on Real OEM and my Clymer book but really can't tell if I'm missing something - besides the wheel, I have the long axle & nut.  
• I still have left the plastic piece - it's odd shaped black plastic - I see the piece on real oem - it looks like it goes near the fuse box and attaches to the frame - it has a small curvature indentation that looks like it should rest on a part of the frame - look at link and see #19 it doesn't say what it is but shows a pic of what I'm referring to:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0365&mospid=47853&btnr=61_0201&hg=61&fg=15

• I bought a matching set front fork lock and lock for seat with keys - not sure how to r&r fork lock and reinstall the seat lock - I can post pics if you like.

i

[Red_Hen]

Is there supposed to be a clamp that goes over the rear portion of the rubber drive shaft boot? I don't have one and don't see one on real oem.

Thanks, gang!

[montmil]

Yes on the required drive shaft boot clamp. Should be just like the one on the front of the boot.

I believe that plastic part #19 goes up front just below the steering head. I have 'em on both my R65s. They are nothing more than a road debris shield. Mine are attached with zip ties but that's likely a PO install. Rotate them and you'll find the correct install position.

"We put the axle through the rear wheel but it doesn't want to go all the way through - the wobble is on the port side of the wheel, opposite where the final drive connects.  Looked on Real OEM and my Clymer book but really can't tell if I'm missing something - besides the wheel, I have the long axle & nut."

Do you have the "top hats" for each bearing/oil seal assembly? Check the exploded view of the cast rear wheel. The "hats" are between the bearing and seal. Note the other bits 'tween the left and right side bearings. perhaps you'll need to jiggle the axle a bit?

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Check the axle for any 'burrs', and put a bit of anti-seize compound on the axle before installing it .

Is the rear wheel brake drum hanging up on the brake shoes, adjust the nut on the rear brake rod, to pull the shoes in a bit .

[Red_Hen]

Thanks guys - w/out having a photo, it just appears there is a lot of the "shaft" exposed on the port side between the frame & wheel - not like on my other bikes.  But this is my first airhead.

[Mike V]

Ken,
Monte is correct about #19. It's a mud guard that fits in front of the coils and it's molded contours will fit along the frame under the steering head and gusset.  You can attach it with a strap tie.  I had the same question a while back and the forum guided me precisely in the right direction. If you're still puzzled I can send you some close-up pictures.

[Red_Hen]

I asked a question about my ignition key - is it supposed to click into several positions?  Mine only turns off & on - the lock seems suspect to me?

Anyone know how to replace the fork & seat lock?  Thanks again.

[montmil]

The R65 ignition switch on my 1983 putt has three positions: Off - parking light - ignition On.

Do you have the OEM switch in the instrument cluster cover? My 1981 R65 came with a seriously ghetto'd ignition switch that appeared to be from a riding lawnmower. Nasty. I threw it far, far away.

There has been a very recent thread hereabouts on the evil fork lock. Try the Search.

As for the seat lock, there are several components besides the lock itself. I bought a new lock w/key and all the other bits were purchased used from RePsycle in Ohio. The diagram shows all.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=47851&btnr=51_2603&hg=51&fg=15

Monte

[bruce_launceston]

Ken

The rear axle should have 2" of the larger Ø section exposed between the port side swingarm and the wheel.

The ignition swith on my EUR model has 4 positions Off - Park - On - On + headlight, I think US models have a separate headlight switch?

Bruce

[Red_Hen]

I'm sure the truth will be revealed as I progress on this project.

Have any of you installed an aux. power input?  I bought mine from the John Deere dealer for keeping bike on a tender when not riding - have one on my other Beemers as well.  Was thinking of installing it on the black cowl that covers the instruments - is this a good place or is there a "better" place to do it?

Also, how many of you are using the stock horn?  I have Stebel air horns on my other Beemers.  Guessing the stock horn is pretty wimpy.

[Ed Miller]

I asked a question about my ignition key - is it supposed to click into several positions?  Mine only turns off & on - the lock seems suspect to me?

I was going to reply that my '81 only had two positions on and off, but I went out to check.  I do have an intermediate position that turns on the tail light and my saddlebag running lights, but not the head light.  I guess that's supposed to be the park light position.

Oh well, I've only had the bike for several years and about 40,000 miles.  I wonder what else I'm missing.

[bruce_launceston]

Hi Ken

My R65LS came with the genuine aux power outlet fitted as a factory option. It is tucked away just in front of the rear shock absorber on the port side. The wiring loom to the battery is neat as it is so close. It has a in-line fuse.
The factory bracket is a little intricate, it bolts behind the top shock mount nut and runs parallel to the subframe downtube.
Maybe you have one in your box of bits?

If you install yours near the instruments you will be relying solely on the waterproof cover to stop water getting in and shorting it out plus the cables will need to be much longer and should probably be a heavier guage.

Photo 002 shows the aux power outlet location.
005 shows the inline fuse and also the seat lock that you were asking about.
007 shows the back of the bracket from under the mudguard.

Hope these help

Cheers

[Red_Hen]

Bruce - thanks so much!  You helped me in two ways - a place to mount the power plug AND a pic showing how the seat lock goes together - I bought a new lock as original was destroyed when I got my R65 and your pic shows how it goes together.

Are you running original horn or did you upgrade to an air horn?

Btw, the yellow paint job on yours is beautiful!

Thanks much!

[azcycle]

I'm still running the stock *beep beep!* horn and I'm considering a Stebel.

[bruce_launceston]

Ken, when I was photographing the power outlet I remembered you were asking about how the seat lock goes together.

I am still running the factory horn and have no plans to change it. I remember once, when a cattle truck was pulling into the lane I was in, going for the horn button and missing it - thats a potential problem if you change bikes often, the damn button was in a different place than the last bike. Back a gear and get the hell out of there worked for me.