Ouch D@mnit all...

[Bob_Roller]

I don't know how much work would be involved for you to remove the cooler and lines, then just plug the threaded holes in the oil filter cap with plugs and crush washers .

[Semper Gumby]

It WOULD be a SIMPLE swap out of bits BUT....I'm missing the @#$%^&! cover!  (Forced to order one on Monday) or perhaps a ride over to Boxerworks is in order after it warms up a bit.

Ack ack ack.

<sigh> I'm driving the jeep to work (Oh the pain, the pain...)

[Bob_Roller]

What about the cover you have right now, could you remove the oil lines, and use 2 metric bolts with crush washers to plug the threaded holes in the filter cap ?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have a broken engine sitting in my garage with bits like this [cover], Bill.  Just say the word.

[Semper Gumby]

Oh please.  Could you mail me the three bolt hole oil filter cover???

2524 Hawthorn Drive
Atlanta, GA 30345-2040

As soon as you do the one I have hiding somewhere will turn up.

Thanks Rob  (How much?)

[Bob_Roller]

Will a non-oil filter head, work in an oil cooler application .

I think the center tube being longer, may interfere with the filter head .

I think there will be issues with the oil filter seals, completely different set ups between the two different style filter heads .

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

That is correct Bob, the center tube is a different length.

Bill, I will attempt to extract the tube, as well.  (they unscrew, I'm pretty sure).


Fire up the propane!


No charge, Bill.  Happy to help.

[Bob_Roller]

And a non-oil cooler oil filter as well .

[Semper Gumby]

Whoa.  The Lockhart oil cooler/filter set up I have uses the stock engine bits and filter.  All I really need is the cover.  The filter I use are the stock hinged and unhinged ones from BMW.  It is a Lockhart conversion kit...not the BMW kit.

I really need only the cover.  

(When mine shows back up I will return it to you.)

The way the Lockhart set up works is oil is forced by the pump around the outside of the filter through the filter then runs through the center to the Lockhart cover (I have to remove the rubber fitting on the outside of the filter to allow this to happen.)  Then it goes outside the motor through the aft fitting through the oil cooler.  The return line runs to the center of the cover through a tube that fits between the filter cover and the hole in the back of the filter canister.  This tube slides into place and is springloaded against the filter cover.  No modifications of the motor are required.

Pardon the pun but it is a cool set up.   8-)

When I remove my Lockhart bits and center tube and put the filter back with rubber ring on each end, the oil path will return to its normal flow path from outside of the filter throughthe filter to the center hole in the back of the canister to the motor. (phew)

Thanks Rob.

[azcycle]

I actually did this the other day... left the fuel on for a couple days. Walked by the bike and smelled fuel and looking closer noticed I left it on.  Fuel had dripped down over the shift lever and the carb bowl was flooded. I removed the bowl, drained it, and left it.

Checked the oil this morning and everything seemed normal (not related... I just check before rides anyway as it leaks oil) and it fired right up this morning....

Guess I'll have to check the oil now for fuel...

[bruce_launceston]

Don't cross the streams! (Ghostbusters)

Anyway, my tip re cold weather / weak battery is to boil the kettle and pour boiling water over the battery and leave it for a few minutes.
I did this many years ago and I can't even remember whether it was a bike or car but I know it worked.
Where previously it wouldn't crank fast enough to start after a few minutes warming up away it went.

Cheers from sunny Tasmania