Tappet adjusting bolt - fouled

[Adamastor]

Hi there... I had been noticing the left side cylinder was making much more valve noise than the right one, so I checked it out again.
After checking the inlet valve tappet was too wide, I adjusted it, and when I was screwing the adjusting bolt to fix the adjustment, it never ended turning around
I see this is not an expensive part, but I do need to take out the arm and the two cylinder nuts, right? Can I do this if I am fast or will I warp the cylinder?
I managed to fasten it, but must buy a new one soon because it wont handle another valve job. (I used a spacer so the nut would still screw on something)
To remove the bolt, and since it has some fouled/smashed parts, should I cut those parts so I wont ruin the rocker arm?

Sorry about my english, it is really hard to try to explain these things/actions in not my native language...

Regards and thanks in advance for any help...

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Not a problem Adam.  English isn't my first language either.  I speak some sort of Texican American.  I'm trying to visualize your description but don't fully understand.  Can you post a picture of the issue you describe?

[Adamastor]

This bolt is stripped... my main question is if I can take it out even with the stripped threads. Will it strip the threads on the rocker arm, or should I first cut the stripped part of the bolt?

Regards,

Sergio

[drewboid]

It depends upon how stripped and distorted the threads are!
Removing the rocker arm and cutting the distorted part off would be the safest - I would run the adjuster into the arm so I would be cutting back to where the threads are good.
You could also try running a die down the adjuster to restore the threads before removing it.
You will need to remove the rocker no matter which course you choose - personally I would back off all the head bolts just to ensure that it does not warp. Others may have a different opinion.

[Adamastor]

I might just have to back off all cylinder bolts... bummer..

But first I need to order the adjusting bolt (and I should also add a brake rotor because I have a warped one). :|

[montmil]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0364&mospid=47851&btnr=11_1788&hg=11&fg=30

This diagram is for an '81 but will suffice for descriptive purposes.

I would first attempt to thread the adjuster screw (#4) as far out as possible, away from the valve pushrod  (#3). Rotate the engine by putting the transmission in top gear and set the pushrod cam follower (#1) where it is on the base of the cam lobe and not on the higher cam profile. You can do this by "feel".

Then, you may just be able to drop the pushrod out of the adjuster screw's recess. If that works, use a Dremel cut-off wheel to remove the protruding damaged threaded portion, dress the rough edges and back the screw out of the rocker arm (#6).

Reinstall is mostly the reverse of what you just did. You have nothing to loose in trying this. If successful, you might save further disassembly of the valve train components

Good luck, amigo.   Monte.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have spare parts #4 & 5, if you want me to send them to you.

Just give me your address in a PM.

[Adamastor]

montmil: that might be sufficient to remove it, since I'll be cutting part of the adjuster screw Great idea!

Rob: I'll PM you, thanks