Another Bum Bean Can Sender

[ambrose78]

I peened my first one - but obiously not well enough as the aluminium  fatigued and the sensor fell off into the rotating bit.

The second time I used an epoxy in conjuntion with a less intensive peening. So far so good.

[Bob_Roller]

I don't know how well this will work in this situation, but I've drilled a small hole into the end of a rivet, and then you can use a center punch to 'peen' the metal into a rivet bucktail, I've never tried to peen a sensor, so I don't know if it's a soft steel, or aluminum .

Just checked the Hall sensors that I have, (Honeywell 2AV54) and the two pins are magnetic, so they may be a soft steel .

[weasel01]

I dont know what it looks like inside but rule of thumb with electronics subjected to heat and vibration a mechanical mount is always the preference.

However if that is not possible loctite makes a high temp adhesive that contains a thermal transfer grease like you would use to sink a power transistor.

Available at Mcmaster Carr.

I have used it to mount power LEDS that run very hot with long term success.

Chicken shit is an old time remedy for what ails ya...I happen to have an endless supply on hand if you want to give it a try!

[montmil]

...Chicken shit is an old time remedy for what ails ya...

Your right, Ampy, it works!

Grandpa taught me to use it whenever I had chapped lips. It doesn't actually cure the problem but it does keep you from licking your lips.  [smiley=mad.gif]

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Here's a current link to replacing the sensor :

http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/replacing_the_hall_effect_sensor.htm

It is stated inhere as well, to peen the sensor, I've seen a sensor, that has two holes to use some sort of fastener, like a rivet, or screw and nut to attach the sensor to it's plate, I guess it depends on what type you have .

[montmil]

Bob, Thanks for the link/s. Added the materials to my ever-growing Tech Files.

Noted, too, that the late Bill Emery of Australia is still helping us. Miss his vast wealth of knowledge.

Monte

[montmil]

It is done! This Saturday morning, I began at about 0730 and had the bean can broken open, the Hall sensor replaced and reassembled by 1130 hours. It's five o'clock somewhere so I'm congratulating myself with a small taste of Evan Williams Single Barrel whiskey. Hmmm... good. [smiley=beer.gif]

Here's the bestest & gooderist link I've seen, courtesy Bob Roller. Thanks, Roberto!

http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/replacing_the_hall_effect_sensor.htm

And a really big thank you to Trolle, across the water. [smiley=dankk2.gif]About a year ago, I bought a disassembled bean can and two new Hall sensors from Trolle as he said he did not have need of them. Saved my bacon and now I know how to reassemble Trolle's pieces parts.  [smiley=clap.gif]

It's all good.   Monte

PS: 1255 hours- Just now stabbed the bean can and reconnected the battery's ground cable. Pulled the enrichener lever, hit the starter button and the bike immediately fired off.

Round two now for Evan Williams. Hope y'all are having a great weekend.

[Bob_Roller]

In Rob Frankham's link, he mentioned about two plates riveted together, did you happen to have one of these assemblies ?

How did you 'peen' the sensor to it's mounting plate ?

[montmil]

The two bean can "plates" are OEM assembled with either two flathead machine screws or rivets. I have the machine screws on both my R65 cans so the rivet chore was not required. I read the article linked with Frankham's DIY but was fortunate to avoid a tedious chore. Got lucky.

The entire job is a non-event. Some very small bits to keep up with. I kept a strip of masking tape on the bench, sticky side up, and stuck parts down in order of their removal.

I've done a substantial amount of aircraft riveting so had all the tools I needed on-hand. The Hall sensor "rivet" legs are much harder than the aluminum I'm used to working with but I still used an machined rivet backup plate. Substituted a drift punch and ball peen hammer for the rivet gun. Cake. Just be cautious that the plastic body of the sensor is clear of the plate and peening tools.

[Bob_Roller]

Monte, you mentioned in another thread, about a phenolic thrust washer in the washer stack-up on the drive shaft of the 'bean can', I ran across some scrap phenolic material at work today, it's .033 in. thick, think that this may be a suitable substitute for the the washer that's in the 'bean can' ?

[montmil]

Monte, you mentioned in another thread, about a phenolic thrust washer in the washer stack-up on the drive shaft of the 'bean can', I ran across some scrap phenolic material at work today, it's .033 in. thick, think that this may be a suitable substitute for the the washer that's in the 'bean can' ?

Most likely would be as good or better than the OEM washer.

The phenolic washer is basically a spacer on the central shaft inside the can. It's located on the end near the drive tangs. In messing with a couple cans, I do not believe there is much strain on this washer. If it was under prolonged stress, it would likely be made of sterner stuff. It's definitely not used as an electrical insulator either.

I'll see if I can't "mike" the spare I have and post the thickness.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

Thanks Monte,

I've got enough scrap material, to make up about 30 washers, just to have on hand, seeing as the parts are no longer available .

This is the first I've seen this material used at work, so I don't know if this was just a one time use for this material to accomplish a modification or not . .

[montmil]

... I ran across some scrap phenolic material at work today, it's .033 in. thick, think that this may be a suitable substitute for the the washer that's in the 'bean can' ?

OK, I just remembered I said I'd do this... I miked the fiber washer's thickness in several spots and the vintage washer showed 0.032, 0.0325 and 0.033 inches thick. You must have been born lucky. [smiley=thumbup.gif]

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

OK, now how about some approximate dimensions for the inner hole, and the outer diameter ?

We've got a hole punch at work, and it makes very clean cuts in soft material like this .

There's 40 different size holes for punching a center hole out, then another 40 different size selections for cutting the outer diameter of the washer .

[montmil]

OK, now how about some approximate dimensions for the inner hole, and the outer diameter ?

We've got a hole punch at work, and it makes very clean cuts in soft material like this .

There's 40 different size holes for punching a center hole out, then another 40 different size selections for cutting the outer diameter of the washer .

Stand by...

Here's the data you requested, Bob.  The central shaft diameter at the  point of the fiber washer is 0.489". The i.d. of the fiber washer measured 0.496-0.500". the washer o.d. is 0.932" with room to go as large as 0.980".

Start punching!     Monte