Welcome aboard!
Yes, it is under the front engine cover - be SURE to DISCONNECT the battery cables first on this and all future front cover removals to avoid accidentally shorting things out under there while removing the cover - this has caused many diode board failures in the past !
You might have to remove or loosen the exhaust headers to get the cover out of there - do you have an exhaust nut (those big finned things that screw on to the front of the cylinders) wrench? If you do have to remove them - One also has to be careful with those as the threads on the heads tend to gall/bind with the exhaust nut threads. The key thing to remember with those is to use the exhaust nut wrench, but if it starts to turn and then seems to get hard to turn again/tighten up-> STOP! You'll likely have to then use a hacksaw or dremel cutoff wheel to carefully cut mostly through the nut(s) and break them apart to avoid damaging the threads on the heads. The exhaust port threads on the heads can be repaired by skilled machine shop, but it is an expensive thing you don't want to undergo unless you have to. To prevent these threads from galling&binding in the future, I regularly (1x or 2X per year) carefully unscrew the exhaust nuts and put the silver Permatex anti-seize on the threads.
[Edit: You probably won't need to remove the headers if you've got the standard R65 exhaust - for some reason I was thinking of the later RT models exhaust with higher crossover]
Probably more info than you wanted - but just trying to help!
These are fairly simple machines to work on - but they are designed in a rather "odd" and old fashioned way which makes them both a joy and a challenge to work on as compared to modern Japanese machines!
