throttle lube?

[weasel01]

Just really getting to ride my r65 now and I am just loving it.

But I am noticing some things that I cant find in the repair manual...

The throttle is tougher to turn than it seems like it outta be...

I took the twist grip gearbox on the handlebar apart last night ...cleaned and lubed it with "White lithium grease" (the same one I use on my cnc machine guide rods).

This helped some but it still feels noticeably hard to twist?
Is this normal or am i just weak?

[bruce_launceston]

This seems to be a common problem with possibly many different contributing factors which all need to be checked.
Mine is pretty light now and I think the main problem was at one stage I didn't have the throttle grip gear lined up to the right mark on the little gear in what you call the twist grip gear box. Check this first!
Are the little gears worn? Mine are and it makes the throttle 'notchy' to turn.
Clean and lightly lubricate the handlebar and twistgrip.
Check cable routing, does it get heavier when you turn the handlebars from lock to lock.
Are all the cables and splitter boxes in good condition and lubed? A frayed cable will make things tight.
Does the throttle shaft through the butterfly turn easily, remove the springs and cables and check.
You may need to service the carbs and put new 'o' rings on the throttle shaft but be absolutely sure you seat the butterflys correctly on the shaft or you will never get it to idle slow again.
Does the rubber twist grip bind on the switch block? I finally fixed this recurring problem by making a large teflon washer that fits between the twist grip and switch block. I also purchased a new set of 'E Z turn' or something like that throttle return springs which didn't help a lot initially untill I sorted all the other problems.
Search this site for a previous 'heavy throttle' thread with suggestions and the link to the throttle spring manufacturer.

Cheers

[montmil]

There is a "locking bolt" -BMW Part #32 72 1 230 874- underneath the right hand throttle housing. This knurled head bolt has a tension spring and a nylon tip and that contacts the tube component of the throttle assembly. It is designed to help hold a specific engine RPM while synchronizing the carbs. It also makes for a sorta functional cruise control friction stop.

Check that; 1) the bolt is still on your bike and; 2) is not restricting the throttle ops.

Monte

[weasel01]

Monte, It feels like it's at the twist grip....
I saw the bolt you mentioned on the micro fiche but when i went to the garage to check i saw nothing so I removed the starter switch cover and looked up from the bottom and all i see is a nylon stud in a hole directly
underneath the twist grip housing.
I see no adjustment ?

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

...so I removed the starter switch cover and looked up from the bottom and all i see is a nylon stud in a hole directly
underneath the twist grip housing.
I see no adjustment ?

The end of the throttle set-screw has a nylon tip.  It is possible that the knob of the screw got broken off.  
You need to get that nylon piece out of there.

[weasel01]

Bruce, Thanks for the suggestions...The arm at the carbs seems easy to turn and equal in resistance.
The cables do show signs of wear but i'm curious about the splitter box does that get lubed?
I've never been in it and it doesnt mention anything in the Clymer.
Also how do you lube the cables ....or should i just replace?

[montmil]

...Also how do you lube the cables or should i just replace?

The Snowbum website has an explanation as to why cables should not be lubricated; found in his Carburetor Synchronization article. Once you get through his often lengthy and occasionally tangential thought process, there's much to learn. Check it out.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/

[MrRiden]

Excepting Robs observation I went through all the above mentioned gymnastics to no avail myself. Even replaced the cables for no joy. All the previous mentioned advice is spot on and should be assessed but in my case it was simply the hand grip rubbing against the switch gear housing. Repositioned the grip on the throttle tube and it now snaps shut when hand removed. A thing of beauty! Do you have bar end mirrors?
rich

[weasel01]

I took the grip and tube off ....chiseled the hardened old grease off re lubed and now it's a ton better.

[Justin B.]

I thought that you'd done that already?  I have found that grease on the tube can cause a "sluggish" return and I have switched over to synthetic motor oil between the tube and handlebar.

[weasel01]

Justin,
I did do it before but with the thicker grease which was an improvement but still not what I feel would be normal so I took it back apart cleaned it back off and used a thinner lithium based grease from the machine shop at work and it's much faster action .....but now that you mention it thin motor oil maybe the better choice.
I think I'll try it as just takes a couple minutes to do.
Does it seem to last ?

[Justin B.]

It appears to.

[weasel01]

Justin,I forgot to report back, I tore it all back down cleaned the lithium grease off the handlebar replaced it with synthetic motor oil
And it was a big improvement.
I've been using it like that for a while now and it does seem to stay put.
I  think it's probably the best way to go.
Thanks!

[Justin B.]

I went through the same thing on the wife's bike.  I serviced the assembly and "ruined it", at least I think I remember that was the way it was described.  

[weasel01]

wives can be a little less than appreciative at times...