Oil changes and bolt torque...

[VaSteve]

I changed the oil in January at a friend's house and rode home.  Due to the weather, the bike has sat for a few weeks.  I strarted it up and found that it's leaking from where the filter goes in.  It appears that the metal shim has slipped a bit and is causing the leak.  Not excepting the fact I assembled it wrong, what's the deal?  I got some new shims, but wanted to see if people actually use a torque wrench to set those bolts?  IIRC, the Clymer books have a torque "range" and I tightened these by hand based on the recommendation from a fellow who was there.

I have found that my final drive is leaking a bit too.  I aimed for the middle of the range.  I guess I should have aimed for the top end.  

Just curious what other's experience is.

[Semper Gumby]

Yikes!  I don't think there is a torque value for the oil filter cover.  I have always just snugged them down.  I live in fear of stripping out soft aluminum threads with a steel bolt.

Assembly is as follows:

1) Filter.   Either the long straight one or the "hinged" one will do.  Make sure you have got the square rubber rings at each end unless you have a BMW oil cooler (which requires a different oil filter (I think)).
2) Metal Shim.  Make sure it is flat and not deformed in ANY way.  It fits behind the....
3) $2000 dollar o-ring (Big white one).
4) Paper gasket (some people do not use the paper gasket!) Same demensions as the oil filter cover.
5) Oil filter cover with three bolts.  If I was going to torque them I'd use about 6 ft pounds - maybe.

Good luck.

If you want to know why it's called the $2000 dollar o-ring then either "Search" here or google it out on the net.

[VaSteve]

If you want to know why it's called the $2000 dollar o-ring then either "Search" here or google it out on the net.

This was a club work party and one of the guys there actually saw the effects of a $2000 o-ring gone bad.  


Thanks for the advice...supposed to be nice (enough) tomorrow.  I want to ride!

[nhmaf]

I'd only add the S-G's suggestions -
1)  Make sure that the surface of the engine case isvery clean and dry prior to assembly, and
2) be very "even" about torquing the bolts - snug each of them slowly in a circular pattern and
    don't make one much more tight or loose than the others..
I don't use the paper thingie, either..

[VaSteve]

When I took this apart in Jan, there was not gasket.  I used the gasket.  I just took it off and reinstalled the gasket.  It leaked immediately.  I did it again without the gasket and it seems not to leak.   It's dark out so I'll go ride it tomorrow to make sure all is good.

I didn't torque it with a torque wrench....used 2 fingers as this fellow suggested.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have never used a torque wrench here.  
I quit using the paper gasket about 10 years ago.

I have only had mine leak from the cover one time (major leak!) and when I opened it up, the white o-ring was cut/squashed.  Apparently it had slipped off it's position (I place it on the shoulder on the cover, and then put the cover in place) and I squashed it.

ANY TIME YOU R/R THIS COVER, RUN THE ENGINE IN THE DRIVEWAY for a minute or two before going for a ride.

I discovered my error about 3 miles from home, at a gas station!

[Ed Miller]

If it's leaking out the gasket, it's leaking out past the big O-ring, so that's what needs fixed.

[FSC]

Well my english is not that good but I hope I cann tell you what I mean...
The most important point at the oil-filter-cover ist to keep the oil-pressure in the motor up. Because in the Tupe (where the filter sits) you have high pressure (up to 6 atm). And on the outside (motorhousing) you have low pressure. The o-ring (you call it $2000-ring) has two jobs: On one hand it has to seal the insinde ob the tube to the motorhousing. And on the other hand it has to keep the oil in the motor.
To do its job properly you have to assemble the thing the rigth way. That is nothing magical but has to be done with a certain amount of care.

First you have to check if you need a steel shim. You will need one if the end o the filter-tube is not rounded. There are two type of tubes. one has a sharp edge at the end (just cut of) and there is a little gap to the Motorhousing. And the newer version has a rounded end. If you have a sharp end you NEED the steel shim. Because if you dont use it the Ring is not able to seel the high pressure inside to the motorhousing and you might get the $2000-motordemage.

The next step is to messure the depth from the outside of the Motorto the end of the tube. that is the room where the o-ring will sit. this has to be between 3,3mm and 3,8mm. Only if that depth is present the 4mm ring is compressed by the rigth amount to work rigth! To get this messure rigth you can add mor steel shims (if you had more than 3,8mm) or the paper gasket (if you had less than 3,3mm).

The paper gasket is only to enhance the distance between filter cover and filter tube. It is not made to seal the motor.
And the steel shims are on the one give the o-ring a propper surface on the older tubes and on the other hand to reduze the distanze between tube and filter cover to get a higher tension on the ring.

If you follow this simple rules and try to understand the way the ring works it will be the $2-ring...

Have fun
Florian (from germany - I have a R45 and a R80R)