Problems with steering straight

[trolle]

Twice I've experienced a nasty wobbling, the first time was by braking hard at 87 mph and the next time was when trying to change direction while making a right hand turn at 50-55 mph. When driving straight the bike feels as if it wants to veer to the right, especially when going at speeds below 75 mph.

At first I suspected that I had tightened the adjustment nut on the steering head too tight but it still feels as if the bike wants to go right (which won't do for an old social democrat like myself) after I have loosened the nut a third of a turn.

I will try and measure whether the wheels are in line, and if they aren't adjust the rear swing arm.

Have any of you experienced a like behaviour in your bikes?

greetings from a sunny and slightly windy north

[SCJJR65]

I believe Will over in jolly old England mounted an "S" fairing on his R65.  It might be worth sending him a PM and ask him.

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Sounds like a swingarm adjustment issue.  I would check the swing arm spacing as well as the torque values first.  The other thing that comes to mind of course is tire wear and balance.

What's the speed limit in Denmark anyhow?  Perhaps you have a former police bike with a Law & Order type spirit that's trying to tell you something?

[trolle]

Ok, I measured the lining up of the wheels and found a difference of 4 mm on the measurements from the enveloping parallells to the left and right tirewall of the front wheel  , ie the rear was 2 mm off the centerline.

I corrected the difference and now have a rear which is only 0.5 mm off and the handling is better: I do not have to excert any pressure with my left hand any more to keep a straight line and the behaviour when cornering has improved as well.

The steering still feels stiff at low speed though, and I think that I will have to look at the steering adjustment nut once more. It feels as if the bike cannot find the centerline by itself when driving below 40 mph.

greetings from a north with clear skies

[trolle]

What's the speed limit in Denmark anyhow?

50 mph on all roads outside towns not being motorways. On motorways the limit is 80 mph except at certain stretches where the the limit is lowered to 68 mph.

Last week I was doing 80 at a 68 mph stretch when I was passed by a bike and a car doing at least 110 mph. Five miles later they were having a conversation with the driver of a car with blue lights on top. Serves them right when driving recklessly like that!  

greetings from a north with clear skies (and conscience)

[Bob_Roller]

When you installed the fairing, did you use the two threaded holes at the front of the steering head tube ?

There is not a lot of clearance there between the tube, and steering 'stem' inside, my guess is 3-4 mm, just wondering if you have the bolts contacting the steering stem, causing a tight steering feel .

[larstorders]

Like Bob Roller says. it is possible for the mounting bolts to bind on the steering stem. bin there   Always good to clean and lube and set the head bearing torque with everything disconnected.

[trolle]

just wondering if you have the bolts contacting the steering stem, causing a tight steering feel .  

Now we are getting near. I remember that, when I mounted the fairing, I worried about those bolts protuding too far into the tube, but I have forgotten all about it till now.

I will try and put a shim on the bolts to see if my steering improves.

Thanx for the input so far.

greetings from a rainy north with pending storms

[trolle]

Getting in behind the fairing and getting access to the bolts fastening the fairing brace is almost as complicated as this sentence. After several tries with my common tools of which I have a fair amount, I deviced a little combination tool which made it possible to get access to and loosen the bolts.

Luckily I only had to reshim the upper bolt to loosen the steering, and what a difference, it was like getting a quite new bike and suddenly the riding gave me the joy I had missed. It is fantastic what a difference of 0.8 mm will make!

Being in reparation and adjusting mode I grapped the opportunity and changed the O-rings on the rear brake lever. It appears that there are at least two versions of that lever: Four years ago I destroyed the original (And I won't tell you why and how, just mark it up as a lesson learned). I got hold of a complete final drive from an R45 and took the lever, and appearently quite new brake shoes from that. This lever only had two O-rings where the original had four.

Now I am looking forward to my next long ride on Thursday, where I am going to ride the most winding roads in Denmark. Pics will be forthcoming.

greetings from a semi clouded north with very good riding conditions

[Bob_Roller]

Great that it was a relatively 'quick' fix, that didn't cost anything, except some of your time .

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I'm really happy for you, trolle!!!  Sorry you had to deal with tight spaces...

The earlier brake levers only had two o-rings, I believe, and it has been a common modification to have a third groove cut in them to accept an additional o-ring.  I guess four is not out of the question?

And if I have never complemented you on your English, trolle, let me do so now.  If you hadn't said anything about the complexity of that first sentence, I would never have thought anything about what you must do to get those thoughts out in more than one language.  Being your "Friend" on Facebook kind of threw the reality in my face, as well, as I look at your page and I cannot read anything! lol!


Thanks again for the great headlight!  

[Yikes]

There's nothing I like better than reading about a successful repair, unless it's actually doing a successful repair.  Especially one that gives you a "new bike" and does not involve parting with large amounts of money! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

p.s. Trolle, Wha8la2's old white S fairing is now repaired and shiny black and almost ready to go on my old '82.

[trolle]

Hi

Next time the lever leaks I will find someone to cut an additional groove. Thank you for the compliment. While I am proficient in written English and have a very large active vocabulary the noble art of chatting still eludes me. I think that you have to live in a language area and speak the language on a daily basis to be able to chat and banter like some of the members on this forum do.

I am really looking forward to seeing my old fairing in new clothes so please post some pics when you are finished.

The ride of this weekend was done on the motorway as I had some small errands which took the time meant for joy riding.

As I do not want to cheat you of the promised pictures, I used my camera a lot on the 220 nautical miles race we participated in. Enjoy   http://picasaweb.google.com/petertrolle/FynRundt2009?authkey=Gv1sRgCL-_6ZO3oNS6OQ&

greetings from a grey and showery north

[ukzknos]

Yikes or Trolle

I've just ordered a pattern S fairing from Motorworks.
I understand that the bracket that would normally fit on the top yoke fork stanchion nut of a R100 etc needs some modification cos, as you know, the R65 doesn't have a nut there!
I have a few ideas to resolve this but would be happy to hear what your solution was?

Thx
Steve

[trolle]

Hi Steve

If your r65 is a post '85 there is no need for any modifications. If it is a pre '85 you will need to make a couple of fittings: The S-fairing is fastened to the top yoke by two stalks. As the bolt holes on the r65 yoke is placed on front of the yoke unlike the holes on the r100 yoke which are on the top, you need two right angled fittings to fasten the fairing to the top yoke. See http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m9jWtj_qCWJWOdrIm8EDTg?feat=directlink
The bottom of the fairing is connected to the fork legs with two stalks which support the turning lights and pass through holes at the lower sides of the fairing. You will have to aquire those stalks if you want a satisfactory fit of the fairing.

If the stalks are not delivered with the fairing the OEM number is 31421233943.

greetings from a clouded and cold north