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Author Topic: Euro/low bars  (Read 7392 times)

jhebass01

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Euro/low bars
« on: February 20, 2007, 06:35:56 PM »
Hi. I've got the USA bars on my '83, and since installing my S fairing, reading this: http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lowbars.htm, and generally favoring a lower-slung look, I'm interested in picking up some low bars. Anyone have experience with Flanders? http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/BMWbars/MaguraBMW.html


Any thoughts on the transition from high to low?

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2007, 07:01:16 PM »
I don't know why your link to Duane's page didn't work for me.  (not directly, anyway).  When I got to it, the URL was exactly what you posted.

I have no personal experience with Flanders.  Just make sure the control castings fit comfortably (diameter - 22mm).  If the bar diameter is too large, it can crack the castings when you tighten them down.

Personally, I love my low bars.  I knew when I bought the bike new that I was going to have the dealer retrofit them.  He refused to do it when I picked it up, only doing it on my 500 mi tune-up, instead...

The only reason I have wanted higher bars is to have more chrome showing to bolt stuff onto.  I finally bought a 2nd dash panel and cut it up to allow for a small windshield for cold weather.

I cannot add anything new that Duane did not cover on his page.

If you think you want them, you will probably love them.  If you are unsure, then it is probably 50/50 that you will still like them.  Different folks, you know.

Oh yeah, I even once went so far as to buy a pair of RS bars for my R65, but the dash panel (again) got in the way of the master cylinder.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2007, 07:03:06 PM by Rob_Valdez_79_R65 »

Joan

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2007, 08:34:40 PM »
I'm looking at RS bars for my RS upgrade, too, and someone else pointed me at Flanders but it didn't seem like I could find an exact bar match on their site.

I'm not going to install stock electric grips, even though the RT's heated grips were most fine, I'm liking the idea of the velcro wrap external models.

But all is moot as the Blueberry continues to languish due to busy schedules and fx shoulder pangs.   :P

Joan

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2007, 08:36:06 PM »
Quote
I don't know why your link to Duane's page didn't work for me.  (not directly, anyway).  When I got to it, the URL was exactly what you posted.


Somehow J's link had an extra comma added ot the end. Should read:

http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lowbars.htm

 :-*

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2007, 06:11:46 PM »
Quote
Quote
I don't know why your link to Duane's page didn't work for me.  (not directly, anyway).  When I got to it, the URL was exactly what you posted.


Somehow J's link had an extra comma added ot the end. Should read:

http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lowbars.htm

 :-*

Yeah, that would do it!  "Sharp Eye Joanie" they call her!  

(better than sharp stick in the eye Joanie -  ;) *ouch!*)

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2007, 06:16:04 PM »
Quote
I'm looking at RS bars for my RS upgrade, too, and someone else pointed me at Flanders but it didn't seem like I could find an exact bar match on their site.



At the bottom of this page:
http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/BMWbars/FlanBMW2.html

They look EXACTLY like the pair of factory bars I had.  They are mis-named on Flander's site...

Offline MrRiden

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2007, 06:51:12 PM »
I have been wanting some low bars for a while and found that Bobs has 'em cheaper than the Flanders. Part#32711241871 for $70.39 before shipping. Think I may order these but please let me know how you make out.
Rich
« Last Edit: February 21, 2007, 06:53:32 PM by MrRiden »
"We can't stop here. This is bat country".

Joan

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2007, 08:06:39 PM »
Quote
Quote
I'm looking at RS bars for my RS upgrade, too, and someone else pointed me at Flanders but it didn't seem like I could find an exact bar match on their site.



At the bottom of this page:
http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/BMWbars/FlanBMW2.html

They look EXACTLY like the pair of factory bars I had.  They are mis-named on Flander's site...



ROOOOooooOOOOOOB! I bow down to your awesome handlebarfinderness!  :-* :-* :-*

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2007, 09:37:15 PM »
Quote
ROOOOooooOOOOOOB! I bow down to your awesome handlebarfinderness!  :-* :-* :-*

Oh pshaw...twern't nuthin...  ::)

Offline nhmaf

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2007, 09:50:58 PM »
I went from the high USA style bars on my 82 LS to the low euro bars.   Since I am over 6 feet tall, the
extra reach to the bars and less mechanical leverage didn't bother me at all, and I actually welcomed
not having my hands way back in a "sit up and beg" type of posture.   But, depending on how tall you are,
they may be hard on your back.   My wife says that I have "ape arms", so reaching the grips is no challenge
for me and doesn't require any stretching.  The LS models in particular look best with the low euro bars, I think.
I gave my high USA bars to Kling Tut to use on his machine, but somewhere I think that I have some comparison
pictures.

Some drawbacks, though:
1.  I really like the look of bar end mirrors (Napolean) and bought them, but with the cowling on the LS, I cannot get the
     controls and throttle grip far enough towards the middle to enable the bar end mirror on the right to grip the inside of
     the handlebar tube and  not the throttle tube.   Well, after riding around the BMWMOA rally last year with saddlebags
     I couldn't see much else in the mirrors, so I'll possibly have to add the mirrors-on-stalk kind to get a better rear view.
2.  You WILL have to replace the upper brake hose (At least on the LS, which has dual brake lines going into a Y junction
     behind the headlight, and a short line from there to the master cylinder.  Also on the LS, at least - you'll need to replace
     the clutch cable.   The choke and throttle cables might be able to be routed/relocated so you don't have to replace them.
     On the LS, these cables consist of a shorter upper cable that goes into a cylindrical "splitter", where (2) separate cables come
     out the back and go to each carb.   I replaced the upper cables on mine (though am also replacing the lower ones just cause they
     are getting worn/frayed.
-mike
Airhead #12178 ? BMWMOA #123173 ?BMWRA #33525 ?GSBMWR #563 ?1982 BMW R65LS ?1978 BMW R100/7 1998 Kawasaki Concours

Offline Rob Valdez 79 R65

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2007, 10:20:06 PM »
A long time ago I had Magura bar end mirrors.  They were cool, but a bit of a hassle to adjust and keep in place.  Then when I installed the heated grips, the bar end mirrors had to go due to conflict with the wires (can be gotten around, I hear).  I like my long stem BMW mirrors just fine (they are black!!!).

I would say I am of average height and stature.  About 5'10" (178cm), 170lbs (77kg), and I don't think I have ape-like arms! ;)

I think the lower bars would be more of a problem in city traffic without the airflow to push you back.  But then I know I "look so cool" (enter ego  [smiley=evil.gif]...) that it is not a problem!  [smiley=1drink.gif]

Yes, a change in brake line is necessary.  
On the standard model the clutch cable is not a big deal, there is just a bit more of a loop down near the front of the engine.  I know, because I finally got around to putting a short cable on mine last year.

Leverage is not really an issue with proper sized tires.  I mean, we are talking about the best airhead BMW ever built, here, remember?

Joan

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2007, 01:29:46 AM »
Mike, Rob... I need more explaining about this change to the brake line. You're talking about the upper brake line, from the lever/handlebar MC to the splitter, yes? Is the original one too short? Too long?

Good thing I've ridden an RS before and know the position will be comfy. Sure, it's a lot of work switching to the low bars with new cables, grips and all, but woooooo... I think it was The  [smiley=evil.gif] Lowen who said having the low bars and rear sets on the wee bike connects you to the road like no other!  ;D

Summer before last I got a chance to deliver a stunning metallic green R100RS to another state, and POW! The RS bug bit me hot and hard, even though I had to shove the thing around the corners, it felt so muscular! Kind of like having the reins of a rocket in your hands.   ;)

Justin? You've ridden the beautiful grey R65RS in your garage, right? Didn't you put low bars on it?

Offline Justin B.

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2007, 07:21:28 AM »
Joan, it had low bars on it when we got it.  I hate 'em...
Justin B.

2004 BMW R1150RT
1981 R100RT - Summer bike, NEKKID!!!

Offline nhmaf

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2007, 10:59:23 AM »
Joan -

Yes, the upper brake line from the master cylinder housing to the splitter behind the headlight needs to be replaced to
a shorter version when going from the USA bars to the low bars.  The USA-bar cable is several inches too long and the cable
is not of the type that you can make the slack/loop go anywhere good.  It is too stiff and you also really don't want the thing to
get pinched and cause braking failure. :o

It is fairly simple to install the shorter cable when you are ready to do so.   I don't have the part number handy but I bought
one from Bob's, I think, who had it in stock.  Just be sure that they know this is for the low bar application.   You'll have to
bleed and refill the brake fluid of course, but you know how to do that.

When replacing the clutch cable, be sure to check that it pivots nicely in the hole at the hand lever end - sometimes that hole
develops burrs and the cable flexes instead of pivoting/rotating freely.  this can cause a new clutch cable to break at the point
of flexing within weeks.   If the hole in the lever has some minor ridges or rough spots, you can often sand them down and put
a light coat of grease in  the hole/end of cable to help it out.  
Airhead #12178 ? BMWMOA #123173 ?BMWRA #33525 ?GSBMWR #563 ?1982 BMW R65LS ?1978 BMW R100/7 1998 Kawasaki Concours

Joan

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Re: Euro/low bars
« Reply #14 on: February 23, 2007, 03:18:42 PM »
Quote
Joan -

Yes, the upper brake line from the master cylinder housing to the splitter behind the headlight needs to be replaced to
a shorter version when going from the USA bars to the low bars.  The USA-bar cable is several inches too long and the cable
is not of the type that you can make the slack/loop go anywhere good.  It is too stiff and you also really don't want the thing to
get pinched and cause braking failure. :o

 

Thanks, Mike!

And thankfully, I think, my only braking failure has been operator error.  :-[

Hopefully when I can twirl wrenches with both arms I'll get back to my RS project. Got everything but new control cables and that new bar.

Think I'll wait on the new low bar, though, unless someone has one they're in a hurry to get rid of. Right now I'm CERTAIN that leaning over in my fave RS position is not compatible with the healing shoulder fracture, and dammit, it's already been healing for six months.  >:( ****in' dirt bike! Argh!