Rocker shaft float

[Justin B.]

I personally NEVER retorque the heads unless it's after bedding in a new head gasket.  I don't relish the job of putting helicoils in the block for the stud I might pull out...

[Ed Miller]

I'm with Justin, though I admit that Bob is correct in saying that the owner's manual says to re-torque them.  I check the clearances, and if they haven't changed, I presume the torque is still good and nothing is happening.  

[nhmaf]

I guess that I should clarify that I don't retorque the heads unless I am changing a valve clearance.  But, I haven't had much need to check them often, so whenever I have checked them I've had to make some small/minor adjustment.

[Justin B.]

The only time I might mess with 'em on a valve adjust is if my clearance has increased...  I know this is contrary to "the book"

[steve_wicks]

I didn't loosen the head/rocker nuts because I suspect the torque wrench I own might be rather inaccurate. (about 20-yrs old & never calibrated) so I tried hitting the pillar, to reduce the float, but it's the same and I really don't wan't to hit the pillar any harder.

What causes this anount of float?

I have been warned by a supposed BMW guru not to try loosen the head bolts as the stud is likely to turn in the block ..... is this true? .... he did say I should book it in for the job!!

[Bob_Roller]

I think a majority of the problem with pulling the threaded studs out of the engine case is simply over torquing the nuts.

Especially if you are not the original owner of the bike, and you don't know who has worked on the bike, there are a lot of people out there, that shouldn't touching a wrench that supposedly know what they are doing  .

I have seen a 'bending beam' type torque wrench used, and when the torque was checked by a 'click' type torque wrench, the torque was way high.

If you have a 'click type' torque wrench, and it's never been calibrated, you may be over or under torquing the fasteners, and you'll never know.

I bought a Snap-On torque wrench right after I got my R65, I have mine calibrated every 5 years.

[Landlubber]

Torque wrenches should never be used to undo a nut, they are designed to work one way.

Do not be concerned if the studs looses at the crankcase end instead of the head end, it means nothing, all you are doing is slightly releasing the tension on the heads, not removing em.

crack them loose, and retighten as per the owners manual, and in sequence from the book.

If the threads are stripped in the block, they are stripped anyhow, this will not alter that, and inserts are an easy thing to do anyhow if need be.

[Andy-Gadget]

I have never, ever, stripped a head stud on any of the boxers I have owned or worked on.

I know it happens as I have seen the result, but can't understand how it happens.

Never had a cylinder head gasket go either, which you would think would have to be a symptom of loose head studs, even when old head gaskets are used through necessity, like on the side of the road.

No torque wrench on this "side of the road" repair either, pulled a barrel and rod after a rebuilt motor (not by me) started to knock on an Australian desert ride.
Turned out to be bead blasting residue in oil galleries killing big end bearings, but the bike was ridden home (1200 k's) as is.
But needless to say had to be re assembled.
Used the other side as a reference for head stud torque, and did it all by feel

Maybe this is why I am a fan of leaving sleeping dogs lie, and only torque when it makes sense to, like after a rebuild, but not regularly like some seem to do.

I am not against torque wrenches as such, I have three, and the little one is the one that gets most of the work.

Head gaskets are easy to replace, and no damage is usually done if fixed early, so don't sweat ti and leave things alone.

I am a Marine engineer, and I can assure you that more damage is done to equipment by "Checking" it than is caused by lack of service.

Just my opinion.

[steve_wicks]

All done, head nuts re-torqued (they were all loose), valve clearances set and end float gone.

I bought a feeler gauge, but only the 4th shop had one ..... and also invested in a new torque wrench.

[Semper Gumby]

The number I saw for end float was .002".  I have a very large set of plyers for squeezing the ends together.  Kindof a 4 handed operation.

[Justin B.]

I use a "C" clamp and a couple of sockets...

Steve, I'm proud of you but please don't tell me you use a crescent wrench and pliers on everything else!  

[steve_wicks]

Its nice and quiet now .....rocker covers were also the wrong way round so I put them the right way and can't believe how much more balanced the bike looks!!

Ray at Cytech advised to set valve clearances to: 0.15mm for inlet and 0.20mm for auspuf to compensate for the high temps we have here (usually!!).

Next thing is front brake as that really doesn't have much power!