Worrisome noise

[montmil]

If it ain't one thing, it's another  

Very recently, my 1981 R65 has begun emitting a noise I can best describe as sounding like a bearing failure in an automobile's alternator. A higher-pitched squalling. Anyone remember straight cut gears? The sound seems to be near the front of the engine -I think- and doesn't sound as if it's "deep" inside. Occurs after a few miles as the engine reaches normal op temps.

I've swapped bean caps but no joy. Doesn't seem to be in the aft portion of the engine/gearbox; although that doesn't mean it isn't. Clutch in or out and in neutral, I hear it just off idle and then it disappears only to show up as I'm riding and coasting/slowing. Noisy when the engine is not under load. Can't hear it under acceleration but then I wear a full face plus I'm deaf as a stump without my audio enhancement aids.

Don't see a bearing in the stator assembly diagrams. Doubt it's the starter as it's just along for the ride. I really don't like not knowing what may or may not leave me walking. Somethin' ain't right somewhere. The '83 is so much quieter.

Already hitting the low 80's around here and I've been Beemering it to work and errands. Looking for some ideas, thoughts, tarot card readings, prior experiences from R65ers, best wishes...  Thanks in advance,

Monte "Just keep throwing money at it" Miller

[Bob_Roller]

Monte,

Can you duplicate the sound with the bike stationary ?

My thought was to use a mechanics stethoscope, to try and narrow down the area of the noise.

[steve_wicks]

Hey, that sounds a bit like mine ... also 1981, although I bought it as an 84 and paperwork says first registered in 84.

I have this sort of whine that I hear at constant throttle at lowish revs but it also goes away as I accelerate. If I close the throttle it goes away so I can't tell if its clutch related and I can't get it to make the noise when stationary.

Don't know if it's related, but I just had new clutch, input & output seals, clutch thrust rod,

Also got the main stand fixed.

[montmil]

Monte,

Can you duplicate the sound with the bike stationary ?

My thought was to use a mechanics stethoscope, to try and narrow down the area of the noise.

It will whine just sitting on the centerstand if I roll the throttle to the sweet spot. I'll fab up a stethoscope and see what I can narrow down. Good idea.

I'll check back when I get closer to the noise area.

Monte

[Bob_Roller]

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, I would be surprised if they didn't have some on display.


Harbor Freight Part Number : 41966-7VGA

Price : $4.99, on sale now for $1.99.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

The only guess I would be willing to offer is the front main bearing (yuck!).

It might also possibly have something to do with your timing chain tensioner?  (just another wild guess...)

[steve_wicks]

Initially thought mine was wind noise, but it doesn't seem to be there all the time.

I can't figure where mine might becoming from and I also have a sort of vibration noise as I accelerate through 3000rpm or so but it doesn't last long and I also cant find that with the bike parked. It sort of sounds like the key ring touching something metallic, but it isnt.

[Darwin_R65]

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, I would be surprised if they didn't have some on display.


Harbor Freight Part Number : 41966-7VGA

Price : $4.99, on sale now for $1.99.

pretty fancy mechanics stethoscopes,
 I've always used a very  large common screwdriver, I guess the real thing probably works better and you don't look so silly sticking a screwdriver handle to your ear.
 

[montmil]

If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, I would be surprised if they didn't have some on display.


Harbor Freight Part Number : 41966-7VGA

Price : $4.99, on sale now for $1.99.

pretty fancy mechanics stethoscopes,
 I've always used a very  large common screwdriver, I guess the real thing probably works better and you don't look so silly sticking a screwdriver handle to your ear.
 

Just don't stick the wrong end in your ear!  I've used a long s'driver along with dowel rods. Both seem to work sorta well.   Monte

[montmil]

Worrisome noise... Time to replace the timing chain and tensioner components on the '81 R65.

Any pitfalls that I should be aware of?

Monte

[Justin B.]

Have fun installing the master-link...  

[Bob_Roller]

Only small point I have to  add, is that there is one, maybe 2 small paper gaskets that look like paper washers, that go between the timing chain cover and the engine case.

It's been 11 years since I replaced my timing chain, so I might have location of the gaskets, but from I remember, they were in the middle around the top of the cover.

Just make a note of it when you first remove the cover.

You'll get an oil leak at each of these bolts if the gasket is omitted.

And I assume you are going to replace the front main seal while the cover is off .

Wouldn't be a bad time to replace the ground wires on the diode board with larger diameter wire, as long as you've got it taken apart.

[montmil]

Only small point I have to  add, is that there is one, maybe 2 small paper gaskets that look like paper washers, that go between the timing chain cover and the engine case.

It's been 11 years since I replaced my timing chain, so I might have location of the gaskets, but from I remember, they were in the middle around the top of the cover.

Just make a note of it when you first remove the cover.

You'll get an oil leak at each of these bolts if the gasket is omitted.

And I assume you are going to replace the front main seal while the cover is off .

Wouldn't be a bad time to replace the ground wires on the diode board with larger diameter wire, as long as you've got it taken apart.

All good points, Bob. Thanks. Believe I'll do 'em all. Already have the larger paper gasket on hand.

Have fun installing the master-link...  

Not too excited about that. May snag one of the neighborhood kids with small hands... [smiley=evil.gif]

Monte

[Justin B.]

Do a search, this has been discussed in the past complete with pix...

[Bob_Roller]

When I replaced my chain, I used a ty wrap to hold the ends of the chain together, then inserted the old link on the front of the chain to align it, then put the new link in from the back side, using a curved locking hemostat, ('roach clip').

Also install the master link clip with the 'closed' end in the direction of rotation.