Garage Queen; Bings+ Doin' it RIGHT from the start

[fishypaws]

HEY Y'ALL... My resurrected garage queen ('79 Bronco Brown) has the most poorly maintained Bings I have ever seen! I want to do it RIGHT from the git go.
What is the best approach? I have them off the bike and have done some tacit explorations (freed the float needle on the problem-child left side) and at least got it to idle. This reinforced my resolve that it was in fact a wonderful boxer as it purred like a dirty wet kitten! At least they appear to have done the valve maintenance!
Any pointers on what you-all would do if YOU found an outrageous deal on a r65 that hadn't been run in years, had signs of moderate fuel system neglect?
Thus far... Tank off, varnish gas out, using syringes to fill the float bowls for the test , excess battery electrolyte removed (at least 10oz in a 18 amp/hr; explains all the acid rash!!!). Changed oil (waiting for filter).  Float valve left side cleared to attempt some positive reinforcement in the way of hearing the sweet sounding valves and other engine sounds!!! Not bad in that department; no rattles, clunks, or oil shooting out the seals that I could see.
If you sage R65 lovers could give me some of your hard won insight, it would be appreciated.

[Bob_Roller]

Personally, I would disassemble both carbs all the way, and replace all rubber parts, and gaskets.

This includes the often feared throttle shaft o-rings.

I would soak the carbs in something like Berrymans carb cleaner, looks like a gallon paint can filled with carb cleaner solution, and a handy basket to contain all of the small parts.

[Yikes]

Like Rob sez, the carb cleaner soak and overhaul is definitely the way to go.  In the short run, I'd recommend using Sea Foam to get it in an acceptable running order while you marshall your forces for the full job.  When I got my bike it had been sitting for a while and the Sea Foam really seemed to improve the vascular flow through the carbs.  That and replacing the deteriorating fuel lines that were dropping little black bits that were keeping the float valved from closing.

I'm still looking forward to doing a proper carb overhaul, but other things have gotten in the way (valves and now an ignition problem that I don't quite yet have sorted...)

These old airheads really do sound nice when they're running right!  Good luck with it.  It's only going to improve.

John M

[nhmaf]

+1 with Bob.   The Bing folks in the USofA have several levels of "rebuild kits" available, but they aren't cheap - you might want to thru the flugelnus distributor route that Monte or others have tried to get just the basic gaskets, O-ring seals, new diaphragms, etc.   You may want to replace the floats, too or  hold off until they prove to be 'sinkers' - the jury is out on whether the independent float kits in the alcohol resistant float kit are really any better than the single beam floats in the standard float kit.

Unfortunately you've got the flat-top Bings on that year bike, so some of the kits are a bit more pricey.   The FULL rebuild kits for the flat tops (Kit#7) will run you around $312 (will do both carbs and will include about anything you could replace, save for the carb bodies and bowls).   Their basic Kit (#1) just has the gaskets and O-rings for both carbs (($35 range ).  Kit #3 has everything in #1 plus new diaphragms and needle assemblies - that runs around $235.   Kit #5 includes all of Kit#3 plus new float needles and needle jets (~$275), while Kit #7 has all of Kit#5 plus new floats -but I don't think that you'd have to go that far (fingers crossed).   If you order from the Bing agency they'll want the numbers off your carbs to ensure you get the right parts, and of course, you can order anything for any of the carbs "a ' la carte" from them, too.

I'd plan on at least disassembling, cleaning, and replacing all the rubber bits -> which basically means doing the Kit#1 or #3 level of replacement as a starting point

[Lucky_Lou]

Mine had been stood for at least six years before i resurrected it i completely stripped both carbs(keeping the bits separate) soaked in carb cleaner then rebuilt replacing all rubber parts including diaphragms re jetted and new gaskets (bowl and enricher) fitted new floats and valve spent a bit on it but it runs like a dream and i don't expect to have to spend much on them in the future....if you don't know the history of the bike i think it is worth doing if you intend to keep it.
Lou
ps check out the UK sites.....motorworks or motobins with the dollar so strong even with shipping you may save quite a bit.  

[jceles]

I just started  my '79 Bing overhaul resurection. I did like the fellows have recommended and soaked these bad boys for a few days. I just got my rebuild kits for both carbs with gaskets, o rings, floats, diaphragms and float pins for about $100.  A&S BMW check it out. So tonight will be the test, and like most home mechanics I'll cross my fingers and give it a go.

Also, a mechanic at Long Beach BMW told me the best way to set the carbs was to cover up / choke out the carb until it almost died, and then set the other side the same way.  Anyone ever done this? Thanks and this is my innagural post with hopefully many more to follow.

[Bengt_Phorqs]

You're also going to synchronize the carbs after the rebuild.  I'd suggest an article on airheads.org about synching the carbs.

[fishypaws]

Hey Guys (gals?), Alot of great advice. I have been into a R90/6 set before for the easy bits. I figure judging by the blue waxy material I had to deal with to free the left needle valve that the multi day soak is a for-sure.
I live in CA. I have not seen the Berryman's Gallon can thing anywhere. I guess I'll call around. I wonder if it has been outlawed here in eco-paradise?
I was seriously considering making a concoction from lacquer thinner (acetone, toluene, ethyl acetate) and meithy ethyl ketone. Any ideas in that regard? WEAR GLOVES!
MUCH THANKS! -FISHYPAWS

[Bob_Roller]

I have used lacquer thinner on carbs that weren't in real bad shape, and it cleaned them up in a few hours, but this was just the normal 'varnish' that develops on the carb surfaces.

[nhmaf]

I'd look for some "Sea Foam" or  PB Blaster or similar if you can't find the Berrymans as a general soaker/cleaner.  MEK is some nasty stuff and very hazardous - it will strip practically anything clean but is very volatile and rather carcinogenic if inhaled.   I used to work at an analytical lab that did contact work for the EPA/super-fund sites, etc.   If we cleaned anything with MEK in the building it would peg the meters on all the gas chromatographs in a 'sealed' positive pressure room for an entire day.

[Justin B.]

If you can't find the Berrymans Chem-Dip then get some of the Berrymans B-12 aerosol and can.  This is one of the best cutting solvents around but don't get it near plastic...

[montmil]

...Berrymans B-12 aerosol and can.  This is one of the best cutting solvents around but don't get it near plastic.

Justin is correct. Several other BMW sites are all gah-gah for the Berrymans products when working with the Bing overhauls. But not too keen on the Gunk products.

If you'd like to try a less expensive but very functional carb cleaner in an aerosol, pick up a can of the TECH-branded carb cleaner at WalMart. I usually grab the six-pack case as the stuff is about $1.19 per can. Cheap enough to use liberally on many projects. I used to get it for 99 cents! Stock up. Beat inflation. Cleaned up the snowflakes nicely. Heed the same warnings regarding paint, plastics and health.

And speaking of carb cleaner... A trick to check the butterfly shaft O-rings on the Bings -without disassembly- is to warm up the engine and then spritz a bit on the shaft near the linkage. If the engines gains revs, the O-ring is leaking. Use caution as the carb cleaner is flammable. You could use a little water squirt -the revs will drop- but what fun is that!

Monte