Availability of Shop Manual & Servicing FD

[Red_Hen]

Greetings,

I'm in the midst of tearing everything off the bike. Transmission was sent out for repair

Still don't have a key to unlock the gas cap but did drain out @ 1 gallon of pretty stanky fuel yesterday. The brass tube on the shutoff valve has a hole in it - is it advisable for me to solder it?

The swingarm is off - I'm supposed to lube the rear part of the drive shaft that goes into the final drive, right? Only reason I ask is this bike also takes gear oil in the drive shaft.

The subframe, beneath the seat has a lot of rust on it - not deep rust but rust. I tried taking it off with a allen wrench but it really is on there. Should I use some heat to loosen it up?  I'd like to use my bench grinder with brushed steel wheel to take off the rust.

Have any of you used Naval Jelly, the type for cleaning aluminum.

Where is the best resource for a shop manual for my bike? I saw a shop manual sell on ebay for @ $90 - pretty pricey.  I have the Haynes from the library but is very general.

Thanks very much.

[montmil]

The Clymer manual is good. I have both and they do tend to compliment each other.

Check Amazon for prices. Expect 35-45 bucks or so. Maybe free shipping and no tax.

Try the Search feature on this site plus the Wiki. Pics and questions are always welcome.

Monte

[Bengt_Phorqs]

Naval jelly works pretty well for surface rust.  I wouldn't do any soldering to the petcock as long as there is fuel in the tank.  I suppose that one way to empty the tank would be to remove the petcock completely.  You may even be able to have a competent locksmith open the gas cap.

Monte is right about doing the searches.  Lots of good info on this site.  Just be sure to go back far enough.

[Red_Hen]

Thanks for your replies.  I received good news tonight about my transmission. The only thing wrong is the Pawl Clip broke. Matt Parkhouse who writes for BMW MOA is doing the job.

Ordered the Clymer manual tonight.

Here is a picture of where I'm at right now - lots of clean up. I did use PB Blaster and the engine now turns and valves open and close. Making some progress here!  Got a ways to go for sure as everything needs to be gone through.

Taking it slow and want to be thorough with cleaning her up and making sure everything is in its proper place.

[nhmaf]

If Matt is taking care of your transmission you can rest assured that it will be absolutely perfect when he is done.   Keep up the good work, be methodical as you are, and take lots of digital pics as you go.

[Justin B.]

A good tip to "restoration virgins" is to remove an assembly and immediately bag it, along with it's associated fasteners, and label what it is and where it goes.  I put together a completely disassembled 240Z a few years back that had been "processed" in that fashion.  Without that I would have had a ton of stuff left over...

[montmil]

Justin, you always tell me that a good mechanic always has parts left over.  

Monte

[Justin B.]

It depends on what parts!    A good mechanic knows which parts are essential and which ones are superfluous...  [smiley=beatnik.gif]

[Red_Hen]

I'm using my digital camera to re-trace my tracks.

[suecanada]

I'm supposed to lube the rear part of the drive shaft that goes into the final drive, right?

Gee guys....we don't need to do that (like on the K bikes) do we? As Ken says our driveshafts run in oil, not dry, and of course the final drive runs in oil too. Am I missing something very major here???

[Bob_Roller]

The Clymer and Haynes manuals are good general guides, but if there is something that is R65 specific, chances are that it won't be mentioned.

I have the BMW shop manual, and this is written with the intent, that you have been formally factory trained to repair BMW motorcycles.

A lot of cautions and information that would help a novice prevent some costly mistakes, are ommited, as you are already supposed to know this general information.

So there is no 'best' manual out there, all of them contain errors, even the factory manual.

I would suggest, that if  you get to a point and have a question that can't be answered by the manual, stop and make a posting here, someone will usually make a posting in a day or so .

[nhmaf]

Good point Sue - I hadn't noticed that question originally.  

Ken, you should use a moly-based paste grease,  like the Honda Moly60 stuff, on the splines on the transmission input shaft and for the  rear drive splines that protrude from the final drive housing which mate up with the rear wheel hub.  But, the transmission and the drive shaft inside the swingarm and the final drive itself all run with with your favorite brand of 80W 90 gear oil - you can choose a higher viscosity if your run in very hot climates, and you can choose between synthetic or dino-juice, though some issues with old seals leaking might occur if switching from dino based to synthetic.