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Author Topic: WTB: rear end (final drive)  (Read 847 times)

Offline Steve

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  • 1979 R65 with 175k miles
WTB: rear end (final drive)
« on: November 30, 2023, 09:36:33 AM »
I need a final drive without much wear on the splines that drive the wheel. Washington State. :steinigung:

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2023, 11:49:36 AM »
There are a few businesses that can replace the splines on the final drive .
I think there is one in Washington state .
Hansen’s BMW in Medford, OR. Was doing this not sure if they still are.
Telephone number (541) 535-3342 .
Don’t know, if it’s cost effective or not over a replacement final drive .
Maybe another source, a member here Larry Chabira, a BMW and Moto Guzzi parts dealer in Austin, TX eBAY name Lamont Sanfurd and his username here on R65.org .
« Last Edit: December 09, 2023, 03:28:56 PM by Bob_Roller »
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline Steve

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  • 1979 R65 with 175k miles
Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2023, 05:10:44 PM »
I have hooked up with a Tacoma-area boxer mechanic named Jason Metzner (anyone heard of him?) and he says there are only a couple of shops in the U.S now that rebuild rear ends, and that that job costs over two grand, so the best deal is to find a low-mileage used rear drive. That way you don't have to open it up, you just install it. I have found one through Re-Psychle, which is going out of business at the end of this month. If you want anything from them, get it now.
Some of you may recall that it was I that had the "roll-on-roll-off lurching" problem. The cause, at least in part, is almost certainly from the extreme wear in the splines that drive the rear wheel. So this should help. Also the ring and pinion gear set, which are integral to the final drive, must be less worn than on the 175k miles rear drive I will be taking off.
While this work is being done I intend to have Jason do some other stuff too! He thinks he hears rod knock and timing chain rattle. The engine has about 135k miles on it, so a preventative rebuild sounds logical to me. By the way, the reason my engine has less miles than my rear drive is that at 75k miles a rod broke on the original engine, requiring me to buy a used one that had 35k miles on it. While the engine is open I should inspect those rods real well! I believe mine was not the only R65 that suffered a broken rod. 
Feel free to run this post in a different category if that better gets valuable info out to the members.

Offline lamont

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2024, 07:12:17 PM »
I have some early 37/11 rear drives, if you are interested we can continue the conversation ,    Lamont   Austin Tx

Offline Steve

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  • 1979 R65 with 175k miles
Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #4 on: February 29, 2024, 09:53:47 AM »
I already found one and installed it. Now I have the old one which could be rebuilt. Are you in that business?

Offline Bob_Roller

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2024, 09:46:23 AM »
He is the eBay seller, Lamont Sanfurd that I mentioned earlier .
BMW and MotoGuzzi motorcycle recycler ,
'81 R65
'82 R65 LS
'84 R65 LS
'87 Moto Guzzi V65 Lario
'02 R1150R
Riding all year long since 1993 .
I'll give up my R65, when they pry my cold dead hands from the handlebars !!!!!

Offline wilcom

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #6 on: August 20, 2024, 05:12:56 PM »
I have a rear drive with good splines. It leaked, probability the brake rod seal. You can have it for postage
Joe Wilkerson
Telephone man with a splash of Data
Menifee, CA

Present:
1984 BMW R65LS "Herr Head"
past:
1982 BMW R65LS
1979 R65
1980 R65
1982 R80RT
1974 R90/6
1972 R75
1964 R50/2
19xx R27
ZX-11

Offline Steve

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  • 1979 R65 with 175k miles
Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2024, 09:42:16 AM »
Great!  Can I mail you a check? Are you in the States?
Steve Ladd

Offline wilcom

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #8 on: September 17, 2024, 01:54:06 PM »
Just saw your post, let me box it up and see what it cost to WA. Its an 84 model if that makes a difference to you
Joe Wilkerson
Telephone man with a splash of Data
Menifee, CA

Present:
1984 BMW R65LS "Herr Head"
past:
1982 BMW R65LS
1979 R65
1980 R65
1982 R80RT
1974 R90/6
1972 R75
1964 R50/2
19xx R27
ZX-11

Offline Steve

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  • Posts: 32
  • 1979 R65 with 175k miles
Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2024, 08:14:47 AM »
My address is Steve Ladd, 938 E. 31st St., Bremerton WA 98310.

Offline Tony Smith

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #10 on: October 21, 2024, 10:06:58 PM »
It never ceases to amaze me the way some people try to mystify a relatively simple job and then charge the GDP of a small African country to do it.

Replacing or renewing drive splines is not hard, it merely required the use of tools most people won't have.

Below I will discuss the three methods I have used to renew splines and why I either use or no longer use each method.

The first time I did one I did it the way BMW decreed. I pulled the FD apart, gouged out the weld securing the drive splines to crown gear, inserted, tried and welded up the new splines, then redid the shimming.

The next one I paid a welder to use special rods from CAT used to build up dozer drive sprockets to build up the splines, I then returned them to correct dimensions using a shaper and an indexing chuck.

I would still be using this one but I sold my shaper to part fund a horizontal mill and unfortunately there isn't enough space for the cutters I have to do the splines without digging into the crown gear.

So, I moved on to what I do now. I mount the crown gear in a lathe and part off about 5mm on the crown gear side of the splines after carefully measuring the height of the top of the splines from the crown gear.

I then cut the new splines part to match (within a couple of mm) the length of the splines piece I cut off. Then I make a mandrel so that the centre is preserved and tack weld the new splines to the crown gear (this is the limit of my welding skills). Then I take the whole thing to someone with plasma metal spraying gear and have them firstly weld the job out and then build it up with plasma to about 0.020" oversize. I rough it back to size on my lathe and then polish with abrasive cloth.

This last method has the advantage of preserving all the existing shimming. The only drawback is that the mandrel gets stuck, I bore it out
1978 R100RS| 1981 R100RS (JPS) | 1984 R65 | 1992 KLE500 | 2002 R1150GSA |

Offline dogshome

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Re: WTB: rear end (final drive)
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2024, 01:25:31 PM »
Seems simple enough.  :drowning: :drowning: :drowning: :drowning: :drowning: :drowning: :drowning: :drowning:
肉(r?u)包(bāo)子(zi)打(dǎ)狗(gǒu) (meat+bun(2nd and 3rd)+hit+dog)
* Literally: To hit a dog with a meat-bun.:-O