From the top.
Do not use sealants on any gasket in the final drive (or anywhere else on an R65 for that matter). When cleaning the sealant off surfaces that was put there by a previous owner you can amuse yourself by thinking up suitable inventive tortures for them - I do.
If any mating surfaces are damaged (by a Moronic Previous Owner "MPO") dress them with an oilstone. If you are unable to recover the sealing surface a th an oil stone, then and only then, use the most minimal quantity of a non-hardening sealant such as Hylomar.
Never put sealant on the final drive to swingarm gasket, the gasket thickness precisely sets the alignment. Whilst on this topic, on reassembly insert the axle so that it holds the FD in alignment whilst you torque the nuts down.
To remove the inner cover insert two 5mm bolts in the two unused holes and after heating the cover a th a flame or heat gun, wind them out evenly to gift off the cover
Using a stud remover, or locked nuts, remove the 8mm studs to facilitate removal of the old gasket.
Use a beer can with the top cut off to protect the seal from the final drive splines.
When fitting a new seal, remember that the open side of the seal goes towards the oil to be contained. Ask me what happens if you get it wrong.
Heat the cover when you put it on - it will just drop on. Make sure the shims are correctly in place, findi g them on your bench when tidying up is very, very annoying (again, just ask me).
If you plan to change bearings, do you have a depth micrometers and a supply of shims? It is not a simple matter of just putting in the old shims.
To replace the outrigger bearing seal you need a puller. If your FD has the older needle roller bearing go carefully, they are expensive.
To replace the input seal you need two special tools, firstly to remove the lock nut and the second to remove and replace the seal carrier.