New float system for BING carbs

[Sspandra]

Has anyone installed the new float system for the BING cabs? It has two floats. It is supposed to help with the engine from getting to rich while accelerating. Fuel sloshes back float drops fuel overfills......
Also is there an ez way to set the jet needle in the #3 position?
Spencer

[Justin B.]

Not personally, but the majority of the experiences I have read about were not that positive.

[Bob_Roller]

I installed the alcohol resistant float system about 9 years ago, it probably was a good move considering the 10% ethanol content of most fuel here in the US ( at least here in Phoenix) and I saw no increase in fuel mileage, or power inrcease. I only paid $75 back in 1998, but I think the price is around $130 US now. I wouldn't suggest upgrading if you aren't having any problems now.

[Justin B.]

Yeah, Bing is absolutely insane with some of their pricing.  How 'bout the stainless top cover screw kit?  Works out to something like $2 a screw   - now that's REALLY getting screwed!  

[Bob_Roller]

I replaced my carb cover screws with common aircraft hardware 10-32  stainless screw for about 15 cents each.

[Justin B.]

With nuts?

[Bob_Roller]

Well believe it or not, at least on my carbs, the 10-32 screws threaded right into the existing threads. If you have a 10-32 die , see if the stock screws will thread into it. Since I've installed stainless screws, never had a problem with them seizing in the cover, like the stock ones are prone to doing. But even at $2 each, if you bugger up the covers trying to get a rusted screw out, I think the covers would be alot more expensive than $8! If you do get a screw stuck in the cover, before you ream out the screw head, get some valve grinding compound, put some on the screw head and then procede with a screwdriver bit in a 1/4 inch socket on a ratchet. Don't try to remove it with a normal screw driver.

[Justin B.]

Well, Bob, if you think that $2/ea is not too much out of line then I will quit feeling like a thief with what I am charging for them on e-Bay!    I have never tried a 10x32, the holes are M5 x .8 but maybe "close enough" for the standard thread to work.   :-?  I also package up a kit with the carb vacuum block-off screws w/fiber washers as well - those are the real oddballs...

[Sspandra]

I did not have any problems getting the carbs apart.  I just had a stumble at 4000 to 5000 RPM under a load. Who ever rebuilt them last time had some O rings in the wrong places. I'm still not sure if the needle is in the #3 grove like the BING book states. I wonder if the new BMW float setup is the same alcohol safe stuff? I will have to check.
Spencer

[mjbickford]

sspandra, could you describe your problem and solution in more detail?

[Sspandra]

The bike would accelerate hard to about 4000 RPM the feel like it was running out of breathe. It would not die just slow down and stop accelerating. If I were to let off the gas to a point it would start accelerating again, if I accelerated too much it would slow down again. If i were in 5th and try to pass someone it would just fall on it's face. So I would have to down shift to 3ed get passed 5000/5500 RPM and all would be ok. So fare I have rebuilt the carbs with BMW parts (The diaphragm were good) and tried my hand at adjusting them. I also replaced the spark plugs.  I could not get a really good reading of vacuum due to the gauge bouncing a lot. I got the two sides to bounce the same after adjusting the valves. It has seamed to help but it has been cold and rainy in Houston the last few weeks and I have not tested on the faster roads. It seams like a 1/4 to 3/4 throttle thing witch is were the needle and diaphragm should take over from idle. I am going to try to set the needles again, and I have to find out if the valves are sealing or not, causing the erratic vacuum readings. The to do list is larger than the clock.
Spencer

[Sspandra]

Well the valves are good. I did a leak down test and both cylinders were set at 10% or less at 90 psi. My compression tester did not work. The driving I did in the last two days the bike has come alive at all RPM's.
So how do you get the vacuum gage not to bounce while adjusting the carbs?
Spencer

[Bob_Roller]

You need to restrict the tube that is connected to the carb outlet fitting, so you get a stable indication. I'm trying to think of some sort of adjustable valve to install in the tubing, but I'm drawing a blank at this time.

[airhead]

Any small valve should do it, even the plastic ones from aquarium suppliers.
You could try drilling a hole in the flat of a nut that is of sufficient size to take the tubing through the threaded part. Then simply thread the hole you drilled and screw in a screw so it squashes the tubing thus restricting the flow. These valves or restrictors are called snubbers or dampers. Adjust them so the pulsations are of similar size on each. I made a pair of vacuum gauges like this with valves, but much prefer the manometer ($4 sync tool) I made later, the ATF oil used in it doesn't need snubbing as it is self damping.

BTW, not that I am a fan of compression testers, but did you remove the carbs during the test, or at least open the throttle fully?

Bill..............................;-)

[Sspandra]

I'll have to get a manomeator. Yes the throtle was open. the Matco gauge would not hold the reading, and would just bleed the pressure off.
Spencer