R80RT Stalling Problem - Help!

[Bob_Roller]

Next possibility would be to swap the 'bean can' the electrical canister under the front engine cover that has the Hall effect sensor that tells the ignition control module to 'fire'.

[nhmaf]

IF it were me, before I went in to dig out the bean cans, I'd try swapping the coils and plug wires - it is quicker to do and it is possible for them to fail
under high temperatures as well.   At least it might rule that out as a possibility - my "new" philosophy is to try all the simple/easier things first, as
I've burned myself a few times in the past couple years looking for a more complicated solution...

[trolle]

Just a thought: The Hall effect sensor on my '84 r65 stopped working and I put in a new beancan. The first time I went for a ride, the engine stalled after appr. a mile. The cause of this was that the wires from the beancan to the ICU had been squashed between the timing cover and  housing when I put the cover back on, and as the engine warmed up the insulation was gnawed (a good Danish word BTW) through and the wires shorted.

Your problem migth be due to a similar fault.

greetings from a rainy but warm north - not very good riding conditions, but who cares as I am going to Tuscany, Italy tomorrow

trolle

[R80rider]

Hello all!  I just wanted to let you all know I have not had the chance to work on the RT.  Maybe I can get to it next weekend.  I will try all the things recommended here working systematically from the easiet to the hardest.  Ultimately it would great to see the problem move to the '87 R80 so I know I have my lion by the tale.  

After looking at the price it's a beemer) of a new bean can for the '86, I have to ask if anyone has ever successfully rebuilt the bean can on these cycles with electronic ignitions?

Hope all had a great weekend!

Bill

[Bob_Roller]

There's a write-up on replacing the Hall sensor in our FAQ Technical section, doesn't appear to be too bad of a job.

The availability of the Honeywell 2AV54 sensor is another matter, I emailed Newark Electronics last week, and the lead time from the manufacturer is 12-14 weeks, and then 2 weeks for shipping.

I am considering purchasing 10 of them, to have on hand for the R65, and the R1150R, they both use the same sensor.

[R80rider]

Hi Bob,

Well when they come in keep one on hand for me.  This seems like a good part to have in the spares stock.  let me pop over and have a look at the post you mentioned.

Thanks,

Bill

[Justin B.]

How 'bout a group purchase?  I could use a few of them as we have 4 bikes that use 'em...

[Bill90Loyale]

OK, you've confirmed that lack of paste is not the issue so:

You can, if you wish, perform two tests:

1.   To test coils and ignition module:  Pull a spark plug, insert it back into the plug wire cap, and ground it securely on the cylinder jug.   Turn the ignition key to ON.   Place the kill switch in the RUN position.    Now, watch the plug while flipping the kill switch on and off.   You should get a spark as the switch is turned off.   If you DO get a spark, this indicates that both your coils and your ignition module are functional and you can focus on the ignition sensor.
2.   To test ignition sensor (bean can) under front cover:  remove negative cable from battery, remove front cover to access bean can.  Remove a spark plug and ground it to engine as in 1 above.   Find the electrical wire that leads from the bean can upwards to connect with the main harness.     Disconnect that connector by carefully removing a thin wire bail that holds the two halves of the connector together.   Pull the plug apart.   Using about a three inch length of thin wire, insert an end of the wire into the MIDDLE female hole of the three-hole connector that leads to the bike's harness (not the remaining half of the connector that's made up to the beancan).     Connect negative ground to battery.   Turn on ignition to bike.   Place kill switch in Run position.   Now, while the thin wire remains inserted in the middle female connector hole, strike the other end against the metal alternator cover as though you're striking a match.  If, when you "strike the match" you also get a spark on the grounded spark plug, your hall effect sensor has failed.

Rick Jones at motorrad electrik rebuilds them for about $175.   New ones are about $500 now.  

[R80rider]

Bill,
Excellent information, thanks!  I was looking over the procedure for replacing the hall senser in the bean can and, though it is well written with great graphics, when you start dremeling metal to seperate plates, I get a bit quesy.  I saw that new cans were $500 so, once I complete the testing you have documented, I will let you know if I need the contact information for Rick Jones.

Out of a little more than curioisty, does he guarantee his rebuilds?

Thanks again and regards,

Bill

[Bill90Loyale]

You're welcome Bill.    Rick Jones is Motorrad Electrik:
See Remanufactured Hall Sender Unit on this page:
http://www.motoelekt.com/ignition.htm

Jones is the man for boxer electrics.   I don't know what his warranty policy is.

There's another gentlemen is Colorado who rebuilds them for, allegedly, about $120.    I can try to locate the contact info if you're interested.

[R80rider]

Thanks again, Bill.  I am thinking if the services turn out to be needed, I would prefer to go with someone you feel comfortable endorsing that try to save a few dollars.  I am, however, still curious if he guarantees his work.  I will initiate contact and let you all know.

Regards,

Bill

[Bob_Roller]

Rick Jones, the owner of Motorrad Elektrik, will stand behind every product he sells.

If something is not right with anything he sells, he will make it right.

[R80rider]

Thanks Bob!   That is all I need to know.  

[R80rider]

Just a quick note to update you all that I have no update.  I have just not had time to get around to looking at either the beancan or the coil.  One thing some of you may find of interest (though I am sure many already know).  The 1987 R80 only uses one coil.  This has me more hopeful that this might be the problem and I can avoid the more costly expense (for now) of having the Hall Effect component rebuilt in the beancan.

When I get the coil swapped from the 87 to the 86, I will provide another update.

Bill

[montmil]

Rick Jones / Motoradd Electrik has a Dyna coil that cured my 81' R65 ignition problems. The original coil had tiny cracks in a circular pattern on the forward end.

Also have continued with a fuel flow problem traced to the fuel tank cap. original cap was horribly abused by PO and was no longer venting... hence a stall after a couple miles when the tank vacuum overcame the head pressure of a gravity flow system. Bike refired just fine after a minute's shutdown. New cap still has an occasional issue. I know... vent line check. Done.

If you have not already tried this, suggest you open fuel cap approx one-quarter turn and go for a ride - staying relatively close to home.