Winter project underway

[AlfromNH]

If you can find the cash, I would replace the side stand with a surefoot.

If its had a lot of use it could fail.  Don't ask me how I know

Steve H

I think I saw evidence of that incident.  [smiley=sad.gif]

I consider myself warned...

[AlfromNH]

Progress to report!


Forks rebuilt and re-installed. Not much, but I've been spending so much time disassembling that any re-assembly feels like victory  

Next up: wheel it out to the garage, drain the fluids and pull the tranny, engine and swingarm.

[AlfromNH]

One thing leads to another, and here we are:


Hadn't intended to go this far. Now I guess I'm going to look into powdercoaters…  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Hadn't intended to go this far.

You and the bike will both be glad you did.

[AlfromNH]

I haven't sent the frame out for powdercoat yet, but more disassembly on the engine.

I started another thread covering the clutch, but here's good news- no sign of leaking rear main bearing!


On to the front. There were remains of what looked like a mouse nest around the alternator and bean can, never thought it looked very good


uh, it's worse under the surface:


Given the common electrical problems with these machines, this can't help matters any.  

Pulled the timing chain cover, it looks to me like the adjuster is out pretty much as far as it will go? A new timing chain in order? The camshaft sprocket looks good, the crank sprocket is hard to see, but it looks good altho a little pointy.



Suggestions for cleaning the alternator? It looks like the same parts are used on a wide range of bikes, and I see a rotor and stator on eBay for $60 shipped. The pictures look much better than mine, maybe I should jump on that.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

The early /5 alternators were only 180 watts, while later they upgraded to 270 watt.  
Make sure it is the later.

And I'll bet you have already thought of replacing your large 3-wire cable going from the alternator to the diode board.
I wouldn't bother with a used one of those.  Get nice clean connectors.

[AlfromNH]

I bought the alternator & stator off ebay, they're from an '83 R80. According to the MAX fiche, they're the same part no.

I have a new(used) 3-wire assembly for the diode board, I'll take a 2nd look at it and decide if I want to order new.

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

I have a new(used) 3-wire assembly for the diode board, I'll take a 2nd look at it and decide if I want to order new.

I had a "new/used" one for 35 years.  
Anything would be better than what you have!  Just look inside the best you can.  I've no good advice on cleaning the inside of those female spade connectors.
Obviously you know you want clean & shiny on your electrics.

Are you new to the concept of greasing the connections?
Dielectric/axle/vaseline - whatever you have on hand is fine.

[AlfromNH]

Well, I think I may finally be done with the disassembly phase  [smiley=clap.gif]
Timing cover off, the sprockets look good to my eye.

Took the oil pan off. A little gunky, not bad, and no metal bits. The cam lobes look nice and smooth with no appreciable wear. Sorry, no pics of that.
So, new oil pan gasket and get that bolted back on. New timing chain, tensioner and associated gaskets and seals and I can put that cover back on.

Was going to bring the frame to the powdercoaters today, but we're in the middle of a blizzard so I'm only venturing out to run the snowblower and all that fun stuff.  

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

When you put on those screws for the oil pan, this is the kind of tool you want, or a screwdriver-type socket holder.  Not too much torque!

[AlfromNH]

Thanks for the tip, Rob. Do you suggest any sealant, or just the dry gasket?

[montmil]

Al,

Before, before, BEFORE, BEFORE you remove the chain, rotate the cam sprocket, da one on da bottom, so that the dimple you see in your pics that's now near the 6 o'clock position is exactly at the 12 o'clock High Noon position.

Then, clean off the crankshaft sprocket tooth that is adjacent to and at the exact 6 o'clock position. Paint it white.

You will more than likely roll the crank, cam, or both out of time as you replace the timing chain and assorted bits. Helpful to back way off on the valve lash so that the pressure on the cam lobe/s does not aid in rotating the cam.

Why do this you might ask? There is a tiny little scratch mark on the crankshaft sprocket that is used to time the cam and crank. Unfortunately, the crank bearing hides it! German engineering, eh?  The concern is driving a piston into a valve if the timing is in error, Another reason to back well off on the valve lash.

When the chain is on and the marks are aligned, Reset the valve lash. With sparkle plugs out, rotate the engine by hand very slowly as you feel for any valve-to-piston contact. No contact? Ya done good.

I have posted a complete R65 timing chain replacement photo essay in the Photo Gallery. It may be of some assistance to you.

[montmil]

And regarding the oil pan gasket... Rob's advice will help you to avoid stripping the threads in the aluminum-threaded engine cases by over-tightening the steel-threaded bolts. That's spelling strip using multiple $$$ signs.

There should be no need to use a gasket sealant. When stationary, the oil level is below the gasket. It's those danged pushrod tube seals that are often cuss-worthy. Do confirm bolt "snugness" after a couple hundred miles as the rather thick gasket may compress just a tiny bit.

[AlfromNH]

Awesome, thanks for all the tips Monte!  

[AlfromNH]

Any suggestions for how to pretty up my starter? It works, and I know it's gonna be hidden, but I'd like to do something about the looks of it


I have "Rust Reformer" paint but that says a maximum temp of 200F, so that wouldn't work would it?