Need some carb help

[Spicy_McHaggis]

The moto: 1984 R65 w/6500 miles on it.

The person: 1971 Michigan model, apparently doesn't know what the heck he is doing.

The story: My R65 would take anywhere from 5-15 minutes to start each morning.  Choke would help only a little bit...so I figured, okay, I'll just go through the carbs and clean things up, new gaskets/orings.

Took the L side carb off first.  Stripped it all down, cleaned it up real well using carb cleaner.  Installed the new gaskets, o-rings, diaphragm.  Carb #1 done.

Then I took off the R side carb, and did the same thing.  Except I discovered that a previous owner had - for some reason - completely stripped the head off the main venturi (the big one) on it.  There was nothing left.  I am surprised the main jet could even thread into it.  The problem...I couldn't get it out.  Dunno what he did, but I tried everything.  Soaked it in PB Blaster a few times for a few days.  Nothing.  Tried heat.  Nothing.  Nothing would work.  I really wanted to get it out and fix it correctly, and give that carb a good cleaning as well.  But to no avail.

Okay, no worries, I've got this other carb that came with the moto.  It's off an '82 R65.  Looks identical.  Cleaned it all up, mixed and matched some of the parts, and reassembled it.  Looks good.

Replaced all the fuel lines with some of that expensive high-quality stuff.  Check.

Fired it up.  Kind of.  Took a few mins to get fuel, etc.  Then it started.  And it ran like total sh!t.  It's running real rough.  About 100x rougher than BEFORE I cleaned it all up.

I've about had it.  I am at my wits end.  What the heck happened?  What should I be looking for?  I really want/need to get this moto back up and running...fast.

Any thoughts/suggestions are more than welcome at this point in time.

Thanks!
Spicy

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

All I can suggest is what the handbook says:

"Adjusting Engine Idling.
Stopped engine bust be at operating
temperature.  Tighten idle mixture
control screw fully on both carburetors.
Loosen it by 3/4 turn.  Adjust throttle
butterfly stop screw on both carburetors
until it just touches throttle butterfly
lever.  Then turn clockwise 1/2 turn.

Start engine.  Adjust engine idle
speed to 950 +/- 150 rpm by turning
simultaneously both throttle butterfly screw.
Adjust both idle mixture control screws
simultaneously to maximum idle speed.
Then turn them clockwise (remember, you are upside down!)
not more than 1/4 turn.

Adjusting Throttle Cables.

The free movement of the throttle
cables must be identical on both
carburetors (0.5 to 1mm/0.02 to 0.04 inch).
If necessary, loosen lock the lock nut
and turn the throttle cable adjusting screw
to the right to increase free play or
to the left to reduce play.


And make yourself a $5 balancer if you don't know how to balance carbs by ear.  (I still do not.)

[Bob_Roller]

Just a thought, look at the throttle and 'choke' cables, and see if you might have gotten them switched at the carb.

If there is no problem there, a full carb adjustment/synchronization is most likely required.

There is a vertical web at the front of the carb, and it has numbers etched into the metal like : 64/32/325, I don't know how critical it is to have a matched set, like : 64/32/325 for the left, and then 64/32/326 for a right side carb.

Back to your original problem, check your ignition coil, and see if it is gray and black in color, this original OEM coil has gotten the name 'crack-o-matic' coil, and is quite prone to failure.

Check the primary winding resistance, it should be around 1.5 ohms, the secondary windings should be around 11-13,000 ohms.

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Thanks...doing the below now...

All I can suggest is what the handbook says:

"Adjusting Engine Idling.
Stopped engine bust be at operating
temperature.  Tighten idle mixture
control screw fully on both carburetors.
Loosen it by 3/4 turn.  Adjust throttle
butterfly stop screw on both carburetors
until it just touches throttle butterfly
lever.  Then turn clockwise 1/2 turn.

Start engine.  Adjust engine idle
speed to 950 +/- 150 rpm by turning
simultaneously both throttle butterfly screw.
Adjust both idle mixture control screws
simultaneously to maximum idle speed.
Then turn them clockwise (remember, you are upside down!)
not more than 1/4 turn.

Adjusting Throttle Cables.

The free movement of the throttle
cables must be identical on both
carburetors (0.5 to 1mm/0.02 to 0.04 inch).
If necessary, loosen lock the lock nut
and turn the throttle cable adjusting screw
to the right to increase free play or
to the left to reduce play.


And make yourself a $5 balancer if you don't know how to balance carbs by ear.  (I still do not.)

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Thanks Bob, once I'm done with the other list I'll try your suggestions...!

Just a thought, look at the throttle and 'choke' cables, and see if you might have gotten them switched at the carb.

If there is no problem there, a full carb adjustment/synchronization is most likely required.

There is a vertical web at the front of the carb, and it has numbers etched into the metal like : 64/32/325, I don't know how critical it is to have a matched set, like : 64/32/325 for the left, and then 64/32/326 for a right side carb.

Back to your original problem, check your ignition coil, and see if it is gray and black in color, this original OEM coil has gotten the name 'crack-o-matic' coil, and is quite prone to failure.

Check the primary winding resistance, it should be around 1.5 ohms, the secondary windings should be around 11-13,000 ohms.

[nhmaf]

If both idle mixture screws aren't adjusted first, then you're going to be 'pushing a rope' as we say.
One other item - you DID adjust the valve clearances to somewhere around .004/.008 or .005/.010
intake/exhaust on both sides, correct ?    

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Haven't touched the valves, as they were adjusted about 2 months (only about 200 miles) ago.

If both idle mixture screws aren't adjusted first, then you're going to be 'pushing a rope' as we say.
One other item - you DID adjust the valve clearances to somewhere around .004/.008 or .005/.010
intake/exhaust on both sides, correct ?    

[montmil]

...Back to your original problem, check your ignition coil, and see if it is gray and black in color, this original OEM coil has gotten the name 'crack-o-matic' coil, and is quite prone to failure...

A big 10-4 on this one! I had inspected my OEM black/gray coil and saw no cracks. Unfortunately, I did not inspect the ends of the coil. Bingo! Small, almost concentric, circular cracks. Dyna coil fix.

It's not necessary to remove the coil for an inspection. I just dusted off the unit and used a small inspection mirror with a mini-mag light. Cured my engine stumble, plug mis-fire, bucking and snortin' BMW.

Though it could be something else...  :-/

[Rob Valdez 79 R65]

Shame on you, montmil.  You didn't repost your photo to show him!


click for the original posting

[montmil]

Shame on you, montmil.  You didn't repost your photo to show him!


click for the original posting

My bad.  

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Shame on you, montmil.  You didn't repost your photo to show him!


click for the original posting

Well, the crack in it isn't circular like the one in the picture, but it runs on the bottom from front to back...!!!

[montmil]

Get thee to Rick Jones and Motorrad Elektrik pronto. The best products and service. Dyna coil is the bomb.

http://www.motoelekt.com/index.html

Monte

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Get thee to Rick Jones and Motorrad Elektrik pronto. The best products and service. Dyna coil is the bomb.

http://www.motoelekt.com/index.html

Monte

Thanks for the link...sent him an email...!

[Spicy_McHaggis]

Okay...got the new Dyna Coil.  I have a question about routing of the rear spark plug wire (from the coil).  It pretty much directly hits the wire bundle coming out of the top of the engine.

Those who have the Dyna Coil, what did you do to address this?  I can cram the plug wire in there, but it certainly isn't a comfortable fit.

Thoughts?

[montmil]

Okay...got the new Dyna Coil.  I have a question about routing of the rear spark plug wire (from the coil).  It pretty much directly hits the wire bundle coming out of the top of the engine.
Those who have the Dyna Coil, what did you do to address this?  I can cram the plug wire in there, but it certainly isn't a comfortable fit.
Thoughts?

Photos of my Dyna installation. Hope one may assist you. I did not have an interference problem with the install on my R65. Do you have the Dyna and its bracket positioned as in the photos?

BTW, that nasty odd ball wiring and wire tap junk is from a fairing install from a PO. It's long gone now!